was driving on the german highway at wot 160 MPH, suddenly no more power and a big smoke through the exhaust.
now the car idle poorly but not die, and a rough low power untill 3200 rpm but no more power after just less rough

at idle car SMELL FUEL AS HELL!

the car don't go too heat water still 86 degre c,

according to power fc i was boosting 0.95 peak and air temp 68 degre c peak when it arrive

ACCORDING TO POWER FC COMMANDER i've hit 92% ON INJECTOR DUTY CYCLE ,
injector failure?
WHEN I DRIVE THE CAR it rev only rough till 3000 rpm
don't rough at all when i downshift...
?
here are my mods

cheap bastard air box/K&N with 99' air duct/ ARC RACE SMIC/ ELABTRONIC INTELLIGENT INTERCOOLER WATER SPRAY / EFINI Y PIPE/HKS TWIN POWER /NGK Power Cable Racing Wire 0.9k Ohms/m) / HKS DOWNPIPE/SARD HIGH FLOW CATALYSER/BLITZ NUR SPEC R/ HKS EVC V BOOST CONTROLLER/SUPRA FUEL PUMP/stock injectors/APEXI POWER FC FD3S4 BASE MAP /STOCK TWINS @13.5 PSI


Motor is only 35 000 miles...

IF REALLY BLOWN

REBUILD OR 20B SWAP?

COST FOR REBUILD ?
COST FOR 20B SWAP?

MY CAR IS A 94' FD3S

thanks for your help..........................

 

Never ask on a forum if you blew your motor. If you want to know if you blew your motor, have a compression test done on the motor (either by yourself or a trusted shop):

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ion_check.html

 

base map and 13.5 psi

 

68 degree AIT is not good. At all.

 

I usually see low 30s intake temp. Just saying.

Rebuild prices? If you do it yourself you can probably get away with about 1500. Parts alone. Get a shop to do it? Probably 4-6k.
20B? Hope you got deep pockets.

You probably had a fun little case of detonation.

 

Unless a broken apex seal carved up the rotor housing or turbo turbine wheels... Ask me how I know

 

Or you over heat it like I originally did and warp everything...
Nothing was reusable....But I digress.

 

Did you blow your motor? I think that is a personal question best left between you and your motor. Just don't let the girlfriend know and I think you'll be okay.

Sorry, your question was just begging for a smart *** answer

 

You accidentally a motor

 

Shame on you. That deserves an infraction, Mr. Forum Veteran

what?

 

I'm not sure, but he did it on accident

*edit* I didn't know you were from Germany. Your English is better than some americans. I had a hard time reading it, thought it was slang. :-)

If the engine is dead, at least she died doing something fun.

Adding something technical, I had a base map PFC and my turbos hit .89 boost. I logged some lean lean conditions. I had similiar mods and I was lucky that it didn't blow.

 

The whole motor.

 

Lmao,


Compression test...

Blowing Smoke..?

 

If the runs even if its bad. But won't rev past 3k. It might just be the secondary injectors aren't firing. Though the act of your secondaries failing, may have caused your motor to blow which is why it idles bad now. Check your fuel pressure maybe. Compression test should be the first test you do though and then you can continue the diagnosis.

When I hardcore blew my motor, it barely idled but the more RPM it had, the smoother it would drive. I drove it from Mosport on the highway at 5-6k RPM because it had no power under that even for highway cruising for 30 minutes.

thewird

 

no smoke only fuel smell at idle...

 

I've plan to move in Los angeles in few months which place will be the best to rebuild my engine? near los angeles...

 

map sensor?

 

thats funny I was thinking that to. The first thing I would check is make sure the vacuum line to the map sensor didn't pop off.

 

Sounds like a map sensor problem. Verify that is ok, if it is then compression test. You can tell if you blew your engine because it will sound like a Harley motorcycle. I know the sound. Lol

 

+1

+1

Check this first.

I experienced similar symptoms time ago. It was just that the MAP sensor tube that had disconnected.

- Sandro

 

JUST CHECKED MAP SESOR tube LINE, still in place...

 

So now you know what to do.

COmpression test.

Please dont make yourself go nuts or anger other members by asking any more advice.

A compression test at this point is a MUST.

 

I just couldn't help myself

"Must not type smart *** answer, must not type smart...oops, just typed it"

 

imo lucky 7 racing my motor is legit as hell
oh and it wasn't to bad at $3600

 

Tri-Point Engineering. They're not cheap, however.