blue connector by the air pump should be the EGR (I think that is the thing on the turbo side of the LIM), should only be on CA cars but I think I have one on mine and it supposidly isn't a CA car.

Black connectors by the drivers side, depends on how many pins. could be
cruise control
map(might want to make sure it isn't this one)
brake/clutch fluid level
fuel pump resistor
ignitor (lots of pins)

Matt

 

because of the symptoms and what it felt like. it ran great the first few seconds the car was on. i did all of the things everyone said so far including a ton of others. i have a list a mile long
and the thing that pissed me off the most was that i broke the motor in not knowing about the problem. same as you. i could have spent that time fixing it other than driving around with a smile. i too hoped for a simpler solution...that was my last option....and believe me i crossd my fingers
if you want more info...just ask.
good luck.

 

Well I tried what rxrotary2 7 said I and I think the water temp sensor may be bad and is causing me to get fuel cut at any boost pressure. What I did was cut the signal wire to the sensor (it supplies 5v to the sensor) and the sensor is the resistance that is connected to ground on the other end. I grounded out that wire and went for test drive (spent longer than I thought) it was a rush.
Only thing the check engine light was on. So to conclude my engine temp sensor is bad, and I remember that I was trying to drill out the water jacket and accidently braze the sensor.

I do have another problem that was pending but I will post it later.

 

Thanks for the replies everyone!
P'colaFD: All the hoses are new and have been checked and re-checked.
spooledup7: definitely not the boost gauge, in 4th under boost I have a top speed of about 50 mph.
spigot: thanks for the info!
rxrotary2 7: OK, after hearing that mostin's problem was fixed by bypassing the sensor I've got to try it! Can you tell me exactly how you did it and where you got the pot you used. Thanks!
Mostin: Cool! I'm glad that one of us has boost again! Keep your fingers crossed......

 

Well what I did was cut the wire (g/W) close to the ECU and ground it on the ECU or someplace. Y ou might ahve to drive with the check engine light on until you buy a temp sensor.

 

actualy the coolant is the ground.
you can pick up an adjustable pot at any radio shack type store. using a voltage/ohm meter find out what the signal is at right then (whatever position the pot is in) and drive car. then play with pot from there...tricking the signal. this is going to cause the car to run a little rich through your primary injectors but you can play with position of the pot to lean it back down to where thecar no longer breaks up.
if replacing the temp sensor works, you do not need to do all of this. i replaced mine 4 times before figuring it was the signal not the sensor. if you need a new sensor, i will give you one for free. ( i do have a few extras... )
my paypal address is my name on here @yahoo.com
thats.... 2_7

 

seems like fuel cut to me!!!!

do you have an air to fuel ratio gauge. it would have been extremely helpful in trouble shooting this problem.

if you dont have one, why dont you get one (a cheap one shouldnt be expensive). all you have to do is hook it up with the O2 sensor (not the main O2 sensor, but the part of it that exists behind the extension manifold).

 

oh by the way, i forgot to tell you: if the tps (throttle position sensor) had been out of wack, you should have gotten an error code in the dianostic center. so it cant be that.

 

You know my car do run very rich at idle after grounding out the temp sensor signal from the ECU the wire that comes from the ECU gives out 5v so I grounded that wire; Now the car is running good on boost. Which wire do I put the adjustable potentiometer on.

Check you paypal account I requested one of those sensors, (rxrotary)

 

if his problem is what i described actualy it wouldnt help tell that the signal was bad from the temp sensor.
mostin. thanks i will send it out this week. (wed.)

 

Sorry guys but I think that I could have the same problem. Where is the water temp sensor located? Is it one of the two that are on the top back of the water pump assembly. I have horrible hesitation that the car completly breaks up. Grounding the engine helped but still does it above 3500 RPM .

 

i replaced my water thermosensor about 500 miles ago. it is located to the left of the alternator facing the passenger seat. it is screwed into the water pump. up, i just reread your post sub-zero, thats exactly where it is. the stock wiring harness that attaches to it is green in color. but if there was something wrong with the thermosensor you should have been getting an error code. i believe its error code number 9.

 

Thanks everyone for the info. I've been very busy the last couple of days and havn't checked posts, I certainly havn't had any time to work on the car - might have to wait till the weekend.
redrotaryrock8: I do have an A/F meter hooked up (just a cheap one), it shows a nice rich condition until the engine cuts out at 4-5psi, then nothing. Fuel cut out? I don't know, you tell me.
rxrotary2 7: Thanks for the sensor offer! I'll get back to you on that.

 

It seems to me like a fuel cut. If the ECU detects any failure of a important sensor or actor it will not allow any boost. You should readout the error codes! The procedure is simple: Switch ignition off, open the cover of the diagnostic connector, couple the TEN with the GND pin. Connect a Voltmeter or a checklamp between FEN and positive battery terminal. Now you can turn the ignition on and the Voltmeter or checklamp flashes the codes out. If your car has a check engine light, a the voltmeter or checklamp isn't necessary, the Check engine light will flash out the codes. Good Luck! Greets Mike. (not really a *****)

 

Thanks everyone for the info, sorry I've been away so long. I'm going to hit it hard this week (evenings) and see if I can figure it out. If I do, I'll let you know what I found. Again, thanks!

 

what did you find?

 

TTT^