purerx7

iTrader: (61)

PS. That is a sign from God, that no man shall receive a ride before I get back.

evot23

iTrader: (17)

just goes to show you that its STILL an FD and I will STILL carry the emergency tool kit with me.

habu2

AC Bristol Ace + Ford V8 = Shelby Cobra

Sunbeam Alpine + Ford V8 = Sunbeam Tiger

Datsun 240Z + Chevy V8 = Scarab

Mazda RX7 + LSx V8 = ... well, everyone I know still calls it an RX7.

When people see my car they don't say "hmm, that looks like an RX7 but until he opens the hood I'm not convinced it's really an RX7."

People have been swapping V8s into smaller cars for half a century. They haven't been doing it to produce inferior cars, they do it to improve the car.

Like politicians, cars don't have souls.

Oh, and if you do join the V8RX7 forum looking for information (and I highly suggest that you do) please search before posting. We are downright ruthless when it comes to non-searching noobs...

RX7gp

Count me as another that's never blown a rotary. Bought my car new in July '93 (birthday coming on the 10th!). Drove it every day for 4 years (64k miles). Swapped the motor out at 96K miles. It still ran fine, but I had a chance to get a brand new motor from Ray and decided to go for it.

New motor has a measly 16K on it - barely broken in.

You can see by my post count that I don't often contribute, but I've been on this forum off and on for many years. And over those years I've often said to myself, "how the hell do these guys keep popping these motors"? My experience with this car has been very different than many (most?) of you. I've been driving this thing for 16 years and can honestly say I've never, ever thought "geez, I hope it starts today", or "man, I hope something doesn't blow up today". It just has NEVER happened.

So, what's my secret? First off, I don't track the car - never have. So maybe my comments don’t apply to anyone that does. Second, I’m not trying to make big power. My car today, at 112K miles, is very lightly modded. Downpipe, ’99 spec turbos, just added a highflow cat this year ‘cause the stock unit finally failed. Still running stock airbox, IC, computer, etc.

My goal has been not to build a different car, but rather to maintain and/or restore the car to its original glory. I’ve had the somewhat unique experience of driving an FD off the dealers lot, brand spanking new. I know how good this car really was (and is) when everything was as it should be; as it was designed to be.

I’ve often felt that if more of you had this experience there’d be more happy drivers of basically stock, unmolested FD’s out there. Maybe not…

I’m never gonna make 400 whp, or even 300. Don’t care to. Understand, I respect the desire. I’m certainly from the “no such thing as too much power” school of thought, just not with this car.

The car, as designed, was an awesome piece of work. I’ve driven a number of pretty nice sports cars over the years, but none has impressed me more than my first drive in my FD.

Oh, and I’m with Gordon – take the rotary away and you may have a great sports car, but it’s no longer an RX-7.

-Randy

WaLieN

I was down this path as well, and the rotary would just cost a lot to rebuild properly (new housings, rotors, seals, misc.).

Thus, I went down the LS1 swap path. I'm not going to sway you one way or the other, but if your motor is still running, I would suggest collecting the LS1 parts before you start tearing things down. It really sucks to not have your FD for nearly 2 years as you wait for parts.

evot23

iTrader: (17)

Pete, the FD is back up and running with no issues. Felt good driving today so I'll see you Sat for that test drive

Cgotto6

iTrader: (8)

I dont get why people get so bent out of shape about the LS swapped FD's. Why would anybody care what somebody else does to their own car? The thing that really interests me is that people dont rip on the guys doing solid axle rear end conversions. Now I dont think cars have souls, but I think that doing that swap just about ruins the car. But hey, if I see somebody doing one I keep my mouth shut, as it is none of my business to tell him what I think.

helghast7

iTrader: (6)

obviously you dont consistently snap axles or drift or you would understand

evot23

iTrader: (17)

Got Pete to drive the car on Saturday. I'll let him post up his thoughts. I think he was surprised about how driveable it was and how linear the power band was. Thanks for coming out to the meet Pete. It was good to see you again and hopefully your rotary is a simple fix

twinturborx7pete

iTrader: (3)

Yea it was a fun drive. I was expecting the car to feel more "raw" I guess? It was very linear and civil. It had plenty of power and torque as well. It was really hard though to guage the speed of the thing since it doesn't pull like the rotary. I'm sure I was going faster than I thought I was. The rev limit makes it deceiving, lol. All-in-all I liked it. Though I still can't say I like it more than the rotary! lol.

However, I am still trying to trace down where this coolant leak is. I let the car sit for over 2 weeks and had a clean start up, no water in the chambers... I'm thinking maybe something with the turbo internals. Not sure. Not even sure if that is possible because I don't know if there are seals in the turbo or just water jackets. (Though a crack in a jacket is possible). I'm going to try more of the old school tests and see if I can't see some exhaust bubbles or something in the coolant. Car just runs so damn well for a car with a minor coolant leak. I see 83C all day.

aaron1017

+1 to the linear powerband. It doesn't FEEL as far as it really is.

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

I would leave it rotary.

I dont want to start another LS1 vs rotary war but it seems like people think its a way out when they go LS1.

Because they wanna enjoy the car and have it reliable at the same time??

LOL

Reason why i LOL is because an FD is not an FD without the rotary. Otherwise you're driving a japanese vette, a car thats about 200lbs lighter than the corvette, with a mazda symbol on it.

Why not just sell the FD and get a C5 Z06 if you do the LSx FD??

Hell, i could LS1 a miata and have a better power to weight ratio than an LSx FD.

What im saying is, you really love your FD? Keep it the way it was and make it better.

Want reliable, torquey, v8? Get a z06.

helghast7

iTrader: (6)

ehh your waisting your breath man, its all been said already, and you should expect retaliation within the hour...

dont forget to put your flack on

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

Yeah i know but when people make threads, it seems like they need more confirmation lol

Either way, its ALL opinion really on what makes the FD better or not, whats a better choice for an FD when the engine goes etc etc.

They could say putting a v8 is better, more senseable etc etc. That is their opinion.

What i have said above, well thats mine.

We all win.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Rent a Coolant System Pressure Tester from Autozone and have at it.

twinturborx7pete

iTrader: (3)

kinda hard when the leak is probably internal....

curacaosfinest

iTrader: (12)

i'd say stick with the rotray man...alot of people switch to a v8, but it just takes away from having an rx7
the main thing that not alot of people seem to realize is the placement of the 13B
people have argued that the weight of any v8 from an ls1 to an lsx is not that bad when it puts out that amount of power, and that it doesnt mess up the handling of the car too much. but it really does. the rx7 is the mid-engined car that has the motor infront of the cabin. yes i and many other track guys will say that the rx7 is mid-engined even though it technically is not

the motor is so small and light that it sits just behind the front wheels of the car and the cabin sits just before the rear wheels, therefore, it drives and handles and feels like a mid-engined car

yes the v8 can accommodate its weight with power...but its the placement of the weight that matters. the car becomes front heavy and it looses its handling characteristics

i say if you're a daily driver/track guy, dont go with the v8
if you're a daily driver/drag strip guy, then the v8 shouldnt be a problem

evot23

iTrader: (17)

I'd say the driver is what really matters. A great driver can make any car handle and go fast. Mid engine, rear engine, front engine...

Contrary to most of the rest of the world

agree

evot23

iTrader: (17)

I'd venture to guess Pete is like me. Enjoys the rotary AND appreciates the V8. If he can fix the problem without the rebuild I'd suggest he do just that. He's not out for gobs of power...he had a single before. He's got power in his other cars.

habu2

That is a totally clueless statement. You have no idea what you're talking about.

Cgotto6

iTrader: (8)

You obviously have never actually seen hard evidence of the weight distribution of an LS swapped FD. You need to do research before you start stating your OPINION as if it were a fact. A quick search ( in the suspension section I think) will yield you a guy who corner balanced his fd pre, and post swap. The weight diff was practically unnoticed, and the distribution was negligible.

As to the rotary being small and light...Small yes...Light...Not compared to the modern engines of today. Much has changed from the 1st gen SBC's found it muscle cars. Look up the weight of any LS engine, dont forget to add in the weight of all the peripheral items the rotary needs to produce power and be reliable. You will be very suprised. Lets just stay the rotary's irons, and rotors are far from light. Where the ls motors are all aluminum. Further more, the LS has its largest rotating mass (crank+ flywheel+ clutch) at the bottom of the motor, where the E shaft+flywheel+clutch of the rotary is on the middle of the block.

Not trying to add to the fire between the swappers and rotorheads, just trying to get some of these widely spread rumors to die out. Hell, I love the rotary still, im just looking for something new to work on as I have had my FD running a single for a few years now. Too many things were falling into place for me not to go with an LS. None of these things have to do with the rotary failing on me as I am yet to have any problems with my current set up. My current rotary has under 10k on a RP rebuild, single, and all supporting mods. Runs great, with great comp. etc. The only thing it doesnt have is torque. Thats was one of the biggest swaying factors for me. But like I have said before, to each his own. People should just support RX-7 enthusiasts, not rotary enthusiasts. This forum still owns as far as rx7 chassis related items.


helghast7: You are correct, I do not drag my car, nor do I drift. Not really sure what your saying here, but are you suggesting that a live axle is better for drifting? Care to elaborate on that, cause im pretty sure that every FD drift car I have seen has been based on the stock diff. With the advent of jimlabs Cobra diff swap, why would anybody but a pure drag racer go live axle?

curacaosfinest

iTrader: (12)

you are right, i wasnt trying to present my opinions as facts, im sorry if it came across that way

the thing is i've driven an FD with a single in it and an FD with an LS6 in it back to back because 2 of my friends have them and were having this very argument in person
my experience was that going down the straights the ls6 would pull on the 13b, but when in the corners the 13b just felt so much more stable

the cars were set up pretty much the same...both had racing beat sway bars, both had the stock r1 strut bar and stock rear strut bar, both on stock shocks with racing beat springs
one had an r1 lip and the other had a 99spec lip
both on hoisers with stock rx7 rims
(they are best friends and built their cars together)

so i think that the car's setups couldnt have swayed the results that much

the 13b just felt better in the corners

i duno it is opinionated and i'm sure there were more factors to be counted in

im still a rotorhead though so my opinions will be swayed
i still say go with the rotary!! lol

and ye i never heard of a live axle on a drift car either

helghast7

iTrader: (6)

many pro drifters and b class drifters go live axle because you get minimal play in the rear that could potentialy alter the course of angle.

independent rear axles are..well....independent, one hub can move at a different angle from the stress and throw off the predictability of the car.

obviously not everyone does it, but many many of them do

habu2

Gordon, I think he was actually saying there is little difference between the weight of a complete LSx/T56 powertrain and that of the 13B with turbos, intercoolers, oil coolers, trans etc. However, there IS a huge difference between an LSx and the traditional SBC. An "old school" SBC (Short Block Chevrolet) is typically an iron block, iron cylinder heads and often an iron intake manifold. There are aluminum heads & intakes for SBCs but you're still stuck with a cast iron block. The LSx is an aluminum block, aluminum head, composite intake design and, yes, corner-weighing a pre/post LSx swap show minimal differences. What Cgotto6 also eluded to was that, while the fore/aft CG is still 50/50 the LSx CG height is actually lower than the rotary due to the lower crankshaft in the V8 design.

I'm not defending the V8 swap but, like Cgotto6 said, some of these "facts" espoused by unenlightened die-hard rotary fans are nothing more than rumors.

As for data, hard numbers are difficult to come by as most weights don't say whether they include accessories like power steering pumps, alternators, starters etc. so you don't really know what they are weighing. In a quick search I did find this post from a fairly well respected forum:

BTW a direct link to that post is:

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...4&postcount=18

twinturborx7pete

iTrader: (3)

To be honest, as far as I can tell I'm staying rotary. I think I just prefer it and with possible plans for the car in the future, I think I'll end up rebuilding if the motor is leaking coolant.