Heard it a spun bearing before anything got sorted so I don't count it as a running and driving car. Wondering that that adapter plate isn't centered or perhaps something mechanically wrong with the car.

 

Didn't Vargas build and tune the engine? Vargas + HTG+ who knows what else = bad problems haha

 

I have a .mov file of the RX8 driving around on the street some (attached). It up/downshifts fine, just not jamming on it yet until the upcoming dyno tune.


Another RX8 in Greece with an REW-EFR9280 has his going too.
.

 

I just got my 8HP adaptor kit. Going to run it without a torque convertor. Shift times should be almost comparable to a DCT at half the cost, less weight, better gearing for RX7 rear end choices, and internal parts like new clutches are cheap. No traffic clutch wear issues, no harsh shifting like DCT solid coupler issues. And best of all, I get to keep a clutch pedal with a clutch by wire program.

DCT is still a rung above for pure track and feel performance, but 8hp comes so close to the same experience (and with a clutch pedal) that it's too hard to ignore. Even BMW has discontinued the DCT in favor of the 8HP, although their reasons for that are still being debated.

 

Was changed for cost.

8HP is a great trans though.

It's hilarious how we are all going the opposite of what the Supra guys wanted. They all complained about the MK5 Supra having the 8HP instead of a manual trans. So much that now the manual trans is an option. Here we are taking our manual trans and swapping.

You can keep a clutch pedal on DCT as well.

 

the DCT kits offered here for the rotary engines now have the clutch-type sprung hub, but some of the early versions did have a solid hub.
.

 

You're making a rather interesting claim regarding centering. But I can assure you the centering of the adapter is not a concern, nor is it off. This was achieved utilizing a machine to touch off all of the oem alignment dowels and hardware locations as well as center. And the same accuracy was achieved when blueprinting the bellhousings as well, with absolute priority given to center of shaft and oem BMW alignment dowel locations. As for the issues with the car, they are outside the adapter. Fortunately, the adapter part is the easy part. Designing our own 2Kw starter to fit on top for manual rear iron (for a zero cutting option) was far more work since there is nothing off the shelf that will fit at the upper inspection port and still fit under the OEM FD intake manifold. Then keeping everything under 1.1" thick was the second trick that we solved as well for all three adapters

The are a couple videos that have some street driving. Start up a few times to prove a solid starter. The controller sadly doesn't appear to be working out. I hope it becomes a good product someday, but not at the expense of customer dollars and time (and TCU and clutches). For now, I'd recommend the CanTCU from Canformance or MaxxECU. From the looks of it, the CanTCU is the easiest and quickest to setup and have OEM quality shifting.


And no free kits have been or will be given out. A couple discount offers went out but ended up falling through. Too small of a shop with too little margin since we keep everything locally produced.

 

Imagine switching to DCT and shifting slower than stock h pattern? At least it drives so it's not the worst HTG setup out there. But that's just terrible. The comments in the video "it's just learning", if they only knew haha

 

And apparently the software and build data for their upcoming Can-based product all got deleted. Crazy...

 

Only HTG allows a clutch pedal for the DCT that I'm aware of? And well, HTG at your own risk..

I'm sure cost is/was a major factor for BMWs decision. It's also a factor in my decision. Seems to get 95% of the performance for 50% of the cost. Being able to run an e-clutch with an aftermarket controller (turbo lamik) makes it a much more capable and attractive trans than it is in an OEM package like a Supra.

Friend of mine just put an HGT Sequential (different company, HGT vs HTG) in his road race FD with air shift paddles. Total cost was about $15k once all the supporting parts were purchased. Compared to that, DCTs and 8HPs are relatively cheap...

 

Most DCTs are around $10-12K all-in with the adapters, lines, coolers, controller, shifter, driveshaft, etc...

 

I think that's a little high. I have about half that into my setup. Ive bought multiple F10 and F80 DCTs for $1000-1500, Domiworks DCT>13B adapter is under $2k, ~$600 for cooler, fittings, lines. If you're using a Maxxecu for engine control (and you should), the DCT control is free. Their DCT harness is $500. If you have to buy CANTCU, thanks another $1200. Driveshaft is $300-500. That's doing it yourself, obviously. I would expect to pay a lot more to have a shop do it.

 

To do it right, it's around $10k if you do most of the work yourself. Now it can be done for less of course, the high ratio DCT trans used to be had for $1.5k. They spiked in price at $3k. Have come down some since, but low mileage ones are usually above $2k.

 

$10k is still $5k cheaper than an actual sequential with paddles.

Shainiac are you running a solid coupler on your DCT?

 

My car has an LS3, but yes, I had a solid coupler for 3 years with a custom flywheel I had machined. Total weight was around 25#. It drove awesome and was maybe a bit on the heavy side. When I ditched the HTG, I sold the trans, adapter, and GCU as a package and bought a new trans and adapter kit. Starting late last year, Domiworks doesn't sell solid hubs. I think it's to simplify his inventory, since he uses the same sprung hub and makes a different aluminum adapter for each engine type. No custom heat treated parts for each iteration. So now I have a sprung hub that I haven't driven yet. I'm finishing a bunch of winter upgrades and should have the car driving next month. I bought the stiffest spring option he sells fwiw

 

I posted this in my thread but figured it applies here also...
Here’s two logs of 3rd to 4th gear pulls @about 15.5psi boost range to compare the stock 5spd vs BMW DCT.

FD3s stock 5 speed.....






BMW F80/F82 DCT.......





How much faster is the DCT vs FD 5spd?

Here's some real world, garage guy somewhat accurate data


I tried to get a fair comparison between the two but the points don’t exactly line up because I don’t need to lift with the DCT.
Also, I choose 3rd to 4th because it’s probably one of the fast shifts you can do with the manual, it’s just straight down.
Finally look at the boost(blue line) between the two… major difference!

Looking at the logs here’s the break down.

5spd .508
I used the point where I came off the throttle to where it showed it was in 4th gear.
RPMs were still dropping a little off from the gear change though.

DCT .143
Since I don’t have to come off throttle I used the start of the 3rd gear change to where the rpm’s dropped.

I’m still dialing in the tune some and next I’ll be getting some E85 to turn up the boost again.

Just sharing my experience.
Steve

 

thanks for that, about what I expected.
.