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Just started my DCT swap.. I’m using Neal’s kit so far its straight forward.
I picked my F80 before they doubled in price. It’s crazy what they are asking now.
Steve
^ thanks pal
that Clutch Masters flywheel/clutch hub has my attention though
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My Cantcu should arrive next week. Only other reasonable option in my opinion is if you already have a MaxxECU for engine control and are able to do it all in one box. I ultimately went haltech for engine control+CANtcu just due to haltech being more common and lots of support. Maxxecu is a super capable ECU though.
I need to see what’s required for setting it up with a ecu not listed, if that’s possible; not sure about that either.
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I would email them. They are really helpful. Basically it communicates via CAN and the engine ECU needs to be able to output certain data so the trans ECU can do its thing (e.g. calculate torque, know the throttle position, etc)
So it looks like I’m probably going to use a Maxx ecu now instead, most likely along with the CANTCU. While you can use the DCT directly, there’s a lot of parameters to setup and plenty of places to trip up if the numbers are off, but the CANTCU is pretty much a plug & play deal on the MAXX.
Buddy of mine mocked up the Hotel7 DCT kit in his RX8 below. Which has an REW swap with a Garrett G40 turbo. He blew up an RX8 6-spd in short order 🤣. He said there was one small tight spot that was easily hammered clear.
13B-REW & Hotel7 DCT fitment in an RX8 chassis.
Working on readying engine parts for modification services on my future build near the end of this year. Which is also using the Hotel7 DCT conversion kit. The Hotel7 kit is designed around the rear AT iron, but a rear MT iron can be used with some slight modification for fitting the AT starter. I was laying it out this morning and assessing the situation; it appears to be fairly easy.
It looks to me like the necessary rear MT iron modification can easily be accomplished on a vertical bandsaw. The pressed-in heater hose coolant barb will need to be removed to do it on the bandsaw and then put back in after, but this could be avoided by machining the iron in a bridgeport mill instead. So just documenting what you’re looking at to use the MT rear iron.
It’s just cutting or milling off part of the flange on the LH side of the rear iron so that the AT starter can mount on in that spot. It does also require drilling two new holes in the AT starter flange and also cutting off a rectangular corner of the starter flange for fitment. The Hotel7 transmission adapter has three mounting holes for bolting on the starter because the modified rear MT iron won’t have the the threaded AT starter mounting holes that come on the factory rear AT iron.
I figure to clamp a straight piece of metal flat bar on the flange to align with the cut line plus the bandsaw blade width away and use that as my guide to cut the iron flange off on a vertical bandsaw.
. . AT starter mounting
. AT starter mods for MT rear iron fitment.
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Nice! Agree the manual rear iron is not a big issue. I like my grinder and flap wheel too much haha. I was a little impatient, if I had to do it again I’d prefer to do it before the engine is together and would be more patient. Luckily my the rotor is coming with an auto rear iron so I won’t need to do it again.
All, figured I'd post my results here..... after 2 year, its finally on the road with the H7 Rotary DCT.
Video is of the first pull in Mexico and my first impressions is....... I'm liking it!
Left to do is dial in the fuel V.E map(its rich, AFRs 9.7-10.2 in boost) setup BC and fine tune torque settings via CANTCU.
Also, wire in the Drive Logic button to get the 3 drive modes, Normal, Sport 1, and Sport 2.
Yes. Easiest to find is Collete Davis and her DCT-Rotary S15 build. The mechanical aspect of the kit has performed flawlessly. They even ran the starter through its paces with some extended cranking times during the build. I heard there were some concerns with their HTG controller, so I assume they will be switching to something different such as a CAN-TCU or other canbus based system.
If it's on HTG, don't expect many videos of driveability lol. HTG has turned into a train wreck. Their main programmer left and took the code with him. Their firmware can only be flashed through their server, which has been down for a month now. The company is now literally the owner and his wife, from what anyone can tell. Steer well clear of anything HTG. I had one in my car for 3 years and it was a pain in the ***. Every firmware update was a coin flip of if the car would ever work again, but you wanted to update because the whatever current stable version you were on usually had lots of bugs. Go Maxxecu or CANTCU.
If it's on HTG, don't expect many videos of driveability lol. HTG has turned into a train wreck. Their main programmer left and took the code with him. Their firmware can only be flashed through their server, which has been down for a month now. The company is now literally the owner and his wife, from what anyone can tell. Steer well clear of anything HTG. I had one in my car for 3 years and it was a pain in the ***. Every firmware update was a coin flip of if the car would ever work again, but you wanted to update because the whatever current stable version you were on usually had lots of bugs. Go Maxxecu or CANTCU.
+1 CANTCU all the way. So glad I didn't buy HTG and rip out the mechatronics. There is a reason they keep popping up for sale.
DCT dreams........... become real!
