Blk 93

I would add metric taps + dies to clean up threads. Mazda does sell bolts that work as taps. I needed one to mount an oil metering pump due to a poor Mazda tap job on a front housing.

Also a $20 metric "stripped nut removal" socket set
These are hardened reverse spline sockets. When you turn counter clockwise the splines bite into the nut and easily loosen it. I had to use one to remobe a stripped master cylinder nut that was tough to reach and would have been tougher to grind off.

A dedicated snap ring tool.if turbos are Hitachi twins
Wish I had a pic of it.
Not a pair of long pliers ...
it looks like a gear puller tool - when you turn the screw it effortlessly compresses OEM turbo snap rings using 2 levers connected to screw threads and to tips that fit into snap ring holes. I'll add a pic if I can find one.

Last but not least, padded fender protectors when leaning into engine bay. Mazda shouldn't have opted for thinner gauge fender sheet metal.

fc3s-ty

iTrader: (11)

As I have gotten back into the RX-7 game + re-entering the forum, it is these type of threads that are important to keep updated IMHO, even after so long from the OP. Thanks Dale. I myself thought about writing an actual book on the FC lol.

My sole addition for basic required tools-
It’s nearly 2022, go and get yourself your choice of 20v cordless brushless impact/drill with some impact rated (black) socket bit drivers. Invaluable.

I like the Makita or Milwaukee, and my Dewalts have been through hell and back for the last 6 years + still going. The HF Hercules black bit holders work great.

Specialty tools-
Over the years I have made some “custom” (see: Jap-Redneck) tools, including flywheel stopper bars, pulley stoppers, etc, but available ones I can list.

54mm flywheel socket. Some people still have to search this. 54mm.

Pilot bearing remover tool- Cheap parts store version- just grind the nubs down just enough to fit in our small pilot bearing. No need for a fancy puller

flywheel stopper- Chain. Bolt it to two of the rear iron holes (if you only do one, you can break a tab, been there) and bolt to the flywheel or hook to the flywheel dowels.

Engine stand- Ive never used a rotary adapter. Unless you plan to crank out engines, 3 of the regular mounts + longer metric bolts bolted to the front PS/AC holes works fine. Cannot remember the pitches off hand. Two lowers are the same, and you need a smaller pitch for the top mount.

My favorite air tool as of late is a 45* angle die grinder. With a Roloc attachment. You can get a cheap kit online- has sanding pads, and the blue or red scotchbrite pads. For the engine, for the car body/rust. The blue soft ones are perfect for cleaning old flange surfaces.

And as someone above said. Block of wood. Metric. About the hight of the floor to the bottom of the engine flange. So when you torque your flywheel nut, your engine cannot spin and shear your stand (for that solo (you + your wife sitting on the engine) 300+ ft-lb heave) -jokes, but not.

That’s all I can think of for now, YMMV.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

^All good stuff.

The original point of the thread was what basic tools do you need to work on your car yourself. You really don't need that much to do a lot of basic work and maintenance on an FD. Some people get intimidated when they think it's an exotic rotary engine Japanese car and they'd need tons of special tools - you really don't.

But, once you get the basics, you then start finding what special tools really help, what tools make the job quicker or easier, etc.

Post up if there are tools you've found that have made your life way better!

Dale

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

*Cordless or pneumatic tools are great for disassembly but even if your not worried about torque specs I would NOT recommend for re-assembly.
*For the relative minor cost and hassle savings I would absolutely get an rotary engine adaptor if you’re doing a rebuild.

fc3s-ty

iTrader: (11)

Agreed, torque wrenches in 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 drive. In-lb and ft lb. I torque to spec everything back together engine-wise, lots of dissimilar metal and flange contact.

I’ll buzz long bolts back down, but torque properly. Not sure if this thread is for proper tool usage and technique, lol, but useful info nonetheless.

(Don’t crank your impact up to max then buzz the m6 bolts on)

A good flywheel stopper (with teeth) and a stand adapter are obviously a cleaner solution, and yes -relatively- speaking, not much. But I maintain they are not required.

I haven’t shared much of my exp and knowledge either, so pot meet kettle- I just get weirded out by spending 100$ or so for a piece of angle iron/ steel plate, when the regular arms of a stand hold the irons up just fine.

If you can’t/are unable to weld, and/or can afford the stand, by all means get one.

Thanks for the reply Sgt.