Hey guys,

I've purchased a set of Tanabe Revel series gauges: Boost, Water Temp, Oil Temp. These gauges are a relatively recent addition to the market, and I think they look fantastic, with faces that are easily read at a glance:

I plan to mount these using the included mounting cups near the center dash speaker.

The Tanabe gauges are capable of daisy chaining, so I should only need to make attachments for constant power, ignition, and a dimmed source (plus ground obviously) once, and run all three gauges together.

My question is whether it's safe to do so off of the fusebox in the driverside kickpanel. I don't want to overload any of the existing circuits. I feel like the daisy chain capability of these gauges would mean a very clean install, but I don't want to go down this path if it'll introduce problems. The alternative would be installation of a fusebox like this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-70217/, but that seems overkill if one power source is okay for this application.

 

Not really what I would put in my car...........

Wiring them to any "key on" power source should be fine. The power window source would be a good one.

 

I'm not a fan of the gauges either, lol. to each their own.

What I did was wire in a standard Bosch 40amp relay to a fusebox like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/121591758911?lpid=82&chn=ps
The relay kicks on via switched power switch supplies the fuse block with 12v power. its small enough to mount/hide behind the A/C panel or radio. Its basically the same concept of as the painless for a fraction of the cost. Save a little money here so you can use it elsewhere on your 7

 

Defi is setup the same way so you're okay.

 

Yup, been running the Defi (similar setup) for over 2yrs now without any issues from the fusebox panel.
I have water, oil temp, boost.

 

I love my Defi Racer Blue gauges

 

So, going to bump this because something came up during the installation. Gauges are all plumbed and readings are great, etc etc.

When the key goes into accessory, the gauges do their startup sweep and read/function like they should. However, when I then turn the key forward to start the car, the gauges shut off while the car cranks, then turn back on/repeat their sweep/etc.

I doubt I'll be running a stereo in the car, so since the provided power harness for the gauges was extremely short, I just tapped into the stereo harness for constant + switched power (they are mounted in a DIN panel). I've tested the connections with a test light, and they act as they should. I have noticed however, that when holding the test light to the constant power while cranking the car, the test light dims before returning to normal after the engine starts running.

Do I just need a different source of constant power? Could it be a grounding issue?

 

That's normal that it does that. This way you're not drawing power when the car needs all the power it can get to get the starter going. If you put it on the constant, it's dimming because the starter is drawing power as it's cranking.

 

Interesting. And I guess the gauges probably only use the constant power source very minimally for memory anyway...so maybe I need to extend the wire and run the switched power to the fuse box extra port like I originally planned. Pretty sure the gauges aren't supposed to turn on at accessory, off while I'm cranking, then back on when it starts running.

 

That's normal, only limited source will stay power during cranking, I don't think the radio does, you'll need to tap into the ECU power or the big ignition wire behind the steering wheel.

 

i believe his right that during the cranking period the ecu by-pass whatever is "useless" for the lack of word , to get electricity without interference to start the engine

 

You're connected to an ACC source, which is only active in ACC and RUN positions. If you do not want them to turn cut off during cranking you want an IGN source, which is active in ACC, START, and RUN positions. The gauges draw such low current (we're talking less than an amp each) that you need not be concerned with overloading any circuits. There are no low current sources in these cars like you find in many modern cars today.

 

Actually, the wiring harness that comes with the gauges (and most gauges, I'd guess these days?) has leads for both accessory power and ignition power, aside from ground an dimmer wires. So, I'm wired into both.

 

You're confusing an ignition source with a constant source. Provisions for ignition and accessory sources simultaneously would be redundant, as both are "key on" sources. Again, if you don't want them cutting off during cranking switch to an ignition wire as opposed to the accessory wiring you're currently using.

 

Accessory is usually for lighting, ignition is the actual power source, then a ground.

I have mine power by a relay that draw power directly from the battery in the bin, and a switched source by the dead pedal to trigger the relay. I have them like that for 2 years now, and I honestly don't remember if they reset or not when I go from ON to crank.

 

Fair point, I'm using the terminology wrong. I'm tapped into both a constant source and an accessory (key on, as you stated it well) source.

And thank you, I'll have a look to see what's conveniently close to the center cubby as far as ignition goes (presumably the steering column as stated earlier in the thread).