Monkman, I dont want to go into too much detail for prices as this is not allowed and this is an interested thread where I can show the process of the current build.

IF you are able to source out the right solenoids for the right prices, be my guess.

On top of that, if you want it to be weatherpacked, pigtailed extended from the solenoid with a 8 pin connector. I can tell you that it wouldnt be cheap.

Reason for this is original COST. Do the math for the solenoids, wires, pigtails, connectors (weatherpacks) and tell me how much really cost.

Reason I plan on creating this solenoid rack was because my friend needed it. And I saw someone had created this solenoid rack before and it was very popular however that member is no longer on the forum.

At the same time, I am currently working on a rebuild/refurnishing of my FD and I needed a little financial support and this is an opportunity therefore I hope you understand NOTHING is free in this world. Especially when I out much thought, time and effort into making something that could be benefical to the community I dont see why this is a bad thing.

-AzEKnightz

 

Yes they are, but have you placed it in the cart and then try check out? Shipping = $6.0 for the 2pin weatherpack =P.

**UPDATES**

I actually bought four 2pins weatherpacks, an 8pin weatherpack (extended pigtail harness that will connect directly to the solenoids) and are ready to make some pigtails with them. However, I dont want to cut up the harness yet until I can finalize on which path I am choosing. Also I want to be able to make this cost efficient for production and make everyone happy and ease of installation is my #1 priority.


However, I might be offering an OPTION where the buyer can choose to go with the cheap way of using blade connections and 1 single pigtail for the TCV (pressure) OR go with a complete soldering/crimping pigtail option which will make the whole set up very clean and simple other than more work required.

-AzEKnightz

 

have you checked out mcm electronics? they have a HUGE catalog with almost any part u can thik of. and also look into some of the wiring companys like amp and molex

 

No I havent. Never heard of them. I will do some research tomorrow. thanks for the heads up!

-AzEKnightz

 

amp and molex are companys that make the plastic housing and the metal end you crimp on the wire. I worked at a small shop that did alot of"reworks" cut the wires and plug off and installed new plug with wire at a specifed measurment. we did all the tv's in the warner brothers edition minivan and i bet i put 50k new crimps on.
mcm is also online

 

maybe tyco electronics have them?

Definitly set me on the list, I'm very intrested!

 

** UPDATES **

Since I have most connectors I needed, I've put together the harness (this is a prototype, final harness will be much more clean and heatshrink wrapped and maybe loomed.)

And I am currently installing the rack on my friend's FD, soon I shall be able to know if everything is working according to my plan.

Pictures will be attached later on tonight. Thanks for looking =).

-AzEKnightz

 

and this for ONLY for the turbo system correct?

 

I ordered quite a few singles a year ago. I must have got a better deal because it was only a few bucks per connection.

Anyways sounds like you are on top of it.

 

**updates with pictures**

So, got some very good news. The prototype is now installed in my friend's FD. However I am not able to fully test run/drive the car because of a bad LCA. Which will be here this Wednesday.

HOWEVER, the car sounded different (in a good way) where even at idle I felt the revving the engine seems to be quicker and I did test drive it around the block under 30mph and NO more slow response from secondary turbo or so. Spool was quick however I havent fully put it on load .

Therefore, as promised here are some of the pictures of today's progress.


My source somehow delivered me a 7pin and I have to reroute the last connection with a solder





No loom or heatshrink therefore some electrical tape for NOW... Again, this is prototype and therefore a little ghetto is ok =O). Final harness with be very professional looking, I promised!!!


Here are the solenoid weatherpack connector pigtails that I've put together


2pin

 

Harness all connected together


Another option is the blade connections, which is the cheaper route and I believe this is what most people will opt for (without the weather pack qucik disconnect, just the bottom 2 blade connections)




This specific solenoid I need to solder in the weatherpack because I dont have the right connector for it yet. I know exactly what's needed =o)


This shows how a normal blade connection would be connected to the harness connector. Very simple and an easy way to make it secure is to use a mini screw-driver and pry the inner tab.


another angle of blade connections


Let me know what you guys thinks. I will make a set of harnesses that's not prototype with heatshrink wrapped and all for those who are interested in that option.

Ideas and opinions are welcome. Please do not discuss any prices in this thread as it is not a production product yet.

Thanks for the interests!!!

-AzEKnightz

 

You meant for the twins? Yes. Sequential =]

-AzEKnightz

 

For the amount of connectors I am buying, the prices wont budge LOL. But thanks for the heads up.

-AzEKnightz

 

I will check them out too! Thanks!

-AzEKnightz

 

If it turns out that this system makes a performance difference while at the same boost levels I will be very interested. My stock seq. setup seems pretty responsive but any simplification to the system would be appreciated.

 

I can assure you that IT WILL NOT make any performance differences.

I am re-making this custom solenoid rack to have a better reliability for our cars. The FD solenoid rack is KNOWN to have slow responses when the CRV or one of the solenoids are sticking.

Again, this custom solenoid rack is ONLY used to enhance the reliability and technically SHOULD perform the same as stock if not better in responsiveness in turbo spooling.

-AzEKnightz

 

If it turns out to make the car more responsive than stock I will be interested. When I said increased performance I should have been more clear. I would not expect more power, just hopeful for an even more responsive turbo system over a properly working oem solenoid controlled system.

 

good job! Looks very promising!

 

So far, I believe so. On top of that, with the stock solenoid system you cannot put too much boost on the solenoids. Hence why so many solenoids go bad. One, because they are under the UIM and heatsoak is the main cause. Second, people tend to put more than 10psi and the solenoids doesnt handle as well and resulting bad solenoids.

As of now, even with idle revving, the engine revs MUCH quicker and more smooth.

I believe the LCA will be deliver to me tomorrow morning. After installing the new pillow ball bushings, I shall be able to road test the car and load the turbo system up to make sure everything is running the way it should be, if not better.

I will keep you all posted.

-AzEKnightz

p.s. For all of you who dont know, these solenoids are good up to 100psi. Here are the specs:
Viton seals
Stainless steel internals
Molded coil
Custom aluminum manifolds
100psi rating
Use custom #10-32 brass nipples
high temp

 

Do you have any pics of the solenoids mounted and all hooked? Just curious to see what the finished installed product looks like.

 

Nice work. Pity you could not source the correct rack solenoid connectors.

I looked at this briefly last year and was considering buying some used ones and removing and discarding the metal blade and sourcing a new blade that could be crimped (it looked like a fairly standard item, though I did not investigate too deeply).

 

Yep, I've delt with digikey techs and they cannot find what I was looking for. Our solenoid harness connector has a weird pitch width and they just dont have anything that fit the way its meant to be. However, the best way to do is a clean remove of the old harness connector and put in weatherpacks. BUT it requires the user to remove their rat nest and then carefully solder/crimp a pigtail connector and which I would think many users wouldnt want to do so because the harness is very brittle.

Here are some pictures of how it is currently mounted (not secured) and routed. Cheers!

-AzEKnightz

This is on the passenger side behind ABS unit


All the orange/brown looking hoses are the new replacements

 

anyone noticed what's wrong with picture #2? LOL

-AzEKnightz

 

Upside down pressure tank.

 

You're good! Reason for that was I ran out of hoses and the hose attached was not long enough so I had to flip it over LOL!!!!

-AzEknightz