View Poll Results: Would you like a PnP harness but will cost around $50-$70?
YES - PnP is what I want!!!
20
76.92%
NO - It is not necessary, an economical way is fine with me
6
23.08%
Voters: 26. You may not vote on this poll
Custom Solenoid rack project
08-18-11, 11:32 AM
#28
There are two current locations that I can think of.
1) the primary location is behind the ABS unit, you simply remove the connector there and tuck it underneath or near the ABS unit and drill two holes for the bracket of the solenoid kit. Simple, very easy.
2) this is for those who have tossed the cruise control unit away. There is enough space for this kit. However the hoses would be much longer than originally designed for. I guess is, most of us will be putting it behind/next to the ABS unit.
-AzEKnightz
08-19-11, 02:26 PM
#29
****UPDATES****
So, after many trials and errors, still no go at finding the right correct connectors.
Here I've attached how the connectors look like and maybe someone can help guide me towards the right place to get the connectors.
-AzEKnightz
So i need to find a connector just like this one.
Here is need to find the male side which attach into this connector.
So, after many trials and errors, still no go at finding the right correct connectors.
Here I've attached how the connectors look like and maybe someone can help guide me towards the right place to get the connectors.
-AzEKnightz
So i need to find a connector just like this one.
Here is need to find the male side which attach into this connector.
08-20-11, 02:02 PM
#32
For the solenoids in the rack have you considered a male H4 connector such as this? The width of the terminals is not the same; the solenoid terminals are inset ever so slightly, such that the solenoid terminals can slide between an H4 bulb's terminals. This inset is not so much that I can't plug my solenoid into my motorcycle's headlight socket.
08-20-11, 03:15 PM
#33
For the solenoids in the rack have you considered a male H4 connector such as this? The width of the terminals is not the same; the solenoid terminals are inset ever so slightly, such that the solenoid terminals can slide between an H4 bulb's terminals. This inset is not so much that I can't plug my solenoid into my motorcycle's headlight socket.
-AzEKnightz
08-26-11, 10:23 AM
#36
Ahh, it's time for a progress report!
**UPDATES**
So the H7 connectors came in. The pitch between the blades were 2/16" too small!!!!
I will try the H4 connectors and see if they will fit.
As fr the H7, I had to modify (by bending the blade outward and they will fit however it doesnt look good(just not very professional). However it will work.
So all comes down to see if the H4 will work or not. If not, I will really have to splice in the blade connector instead of finding a real quick-disconnect connector.
And here is a picture showing the comparison of a modified H7 to a non-modified H7 connector.
-AzEKnightz
08-26-11, 12:46 PM
#38
Damn, those H7 connectors would have been perfect.
You could try something like this terminal header strip. The 4 tab version should be .6 center to center on the outside two tabs, which, according to my calipers is the same on the solenoids. Though not ideal it should work if you cut the two center tabs out.
You could try something like this terminal header strip. The 4 tab version should be .6 center to center on the outside two tabs, which, according to my calipers is the same on the solenoids. Though not ideal it should work if you cut the two center tabs out.
08-26-11, 01:02 PM
#39
yeah, the H7 is as close as I can get as of now. I am also dealing with another source right now to see if they can find me something that fits my needs. Hopefully I can get a response sometime this weekend or early next week.
-AzEKnightz
-AzEKnightz
08-27-11, 03:18 AM
#41
Better option:
Wire the solenoids to a weatherpak connector, and then set up the mate to the connector to have a 6 inch pigtail. inline crimp connector or solder joint and BAM! done. And the solenoids can be unplugged easily. Heck, get an 8 pin connector that they all route to and have it all on one connector. Even more simplification of the engine bay.
Wire the solenoids to a weatherpak connector, and then set up the mate to the connector to have a 6 inch pigtail. inline crimp connector or solder joint and BAM! done. And the solenoids can be unplugged easily. Heck, get an 8 pin connector that they all route to and have it all on one connector. Even more simplification of the engine bay.
08-27-11, 04:45 PM
#43
Better option:
Wire the solenoids to a weatherpak connector, and then set up the mate to the connector to have a 6 inch pigtail. inline crimp connector or solder joint and BAM! done. And the solenoids can be unplugged easily. Heck, get an 8 pin connector that they all route to and have it all on one connector. Even more simplification of the engine bay.
Wire the solenoids to a weatherpak connector, and then set up the mate to the connector to have a 6 inch pigtail. inline crimp connector or solder joint and BAM! done. And the solenoids can be unplugged easily. Heck, get an 8 pin connector that they all route to and have it all on one connector. Even more simplification of the engine bay.
Another issue is cost. 4 weatherpack connection with a pigtail will cost me at approximately $20-25 at cost. + the solenoid packs and all will be well over $600 final price. I am trying to keep everything under a certain amount so I can pass down the savings to the community. Heck, if everyone is ok doing that, I am more than happy to providing all the pigtails ready for crimping/soldering.
-AzEKnightz
