Crappy PC680 Battery - short life, any ideas how to fix it?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,022
Likes: 24
From: Avondale, AZ
Crappy PC680 Battery - short life, any ideas how to fix it?
I have the Odyssey/Hawker PC680.
If the car sits for more than 15 hours, it doesn't have enough CCA to get the car started.
I figure there is something draining the battery, but I don't know where to start.
I've heard people have had these things able to sit for 3-4 days and still have it start.. but anything longer than that.. and it's hopeless. I thought about putting in a kill switch and just flipping it off after work everyday.
Other idea was a rear battery relocation with a Optima battery but that seems like it's gonna be a bit too much, not sure if I have room for it with my methanol setup.
Anywa, suggestions and help are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
-Darren-
If the car sits for more than 15 hours, it doesn't have enough CCA to get the car started.
I figure there is something draining the battery, but I don't know where to start.
I've heard people have had these things able to sit for 3-4 days and still have it start.. but anything longer than that.. and it's hopeless. I thought about putting in a kill switch and just flipping it off after work everyday.
Other idea was a rear battery relocation with a Optima battery but that seems like it's gonna be a bit too much, not sure if I have room for it with my methanol setup.
Anywa, suggestions and help are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
-Darren-
you already touched on the alternatives.
Searching on this will show how much the battery sucks, it is a recurring theme. Hate mine, and am relocating a regular battery when my engine rebuild is done here shortly.
Searching on this will show how much the battery sucks, it is a recurring theme. Hate mine, and am relocating a regular battery when my engine rebuild is done here shortly.
Get rid of it, get a Turbo Jeff battery box, go to Advance Auto and pay 75.00 for a 51r and ride. I have had mine for a year and it's gone through two engine flooding, and a water seal that went south and that's without a charger. Link below
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=51r+battery
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=51r+battery
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by NVMYRX-7
Get rid of it, get a Turbo Jeff battery box, go to Advance Auto and pay 75.00 for a 51r and ride. I have had mine for a year and it's gone through two engine flooding, and a water seal that went south and that's without a charger. Link below
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=51r+battery
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=51r+battery
Last edited by AMRAAM4; Jun 2, 2006 at 11:40 AM.
Originally Posted by AMRAAM4
Searching on this will show how much the battery sucks, it is a recurring theme. Hate mine, and am relocating a regular battery when my engine rebuild is done here shortly.
Solution = 1 Oddyssey Battery + 1 regular sized battery
or
Junk the oddyssey and get a full-sized battery
I just bought a D51 Optima Yellow Top a few weeks ago....world of a difference from the PC680. Looks like they don't have either in stock now...I guess I lucked out.
http://www.remybattery.com/
I junked my PC680 after dealing with recharging it everytime the FD sat for a few days... I think I overcharged it the last time on a trickle charger and the battery blew up in my bin while driving. The top cover literally blew off!
http://www.remybattery.com/
I junked my PC680 after dealing with recharging it everytime the FD sat for a few days... I think I overcharged it the last time on a trickle charger and the battery blew up in my bin while driving. The top cover literally blew off!
Last edited by PandazRx-7; Jun 2, 2006 at 12:30 PM.
I have not had a problem with mine. Mine has sat a month with out a charger and still started the car with no problem. You could try running a capacitor with the battery that my help your start problems.
I installed my PC680 over a year ago, and have had no problems with it. Sometimes I've let the car sit for a week at a time, and it's started up just fine. It sounds to me like something is draining your battery more quickly than mine, or your alternator might not be charging it sufficiently. Do you have an aftermarket stereo or alarm installed?
-s-
-s-
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,022
Likes: 24
From: Avondale, AZ
It got worse after I put in my Eclipse deck. Thats it though.. I don't have anything but an aftermarket head unit as far as stereo is concerned. Normally it would last 18 or so hours.. but now its less than 15.
I watch my battery voltage when I drive, it sits around 14 to 14.9 and when I idle it's around 12.5 or so.
The alternator is charging it fine.. but it just doesn't hold a charge while connected cause something is draining it. If i disconnect the negative and let it sit for 2-3 days, then it's fine. But if I leave it connected, something keeps draining it =/
I watch my battery voltage when I drive, it sits around 14 to 14.9 and when I idle it's around 12.5 or so.
The alternator is charging it fine.. but it just doesn't hold a charge while connected cause something is draining it. If i disconnect the negative and let it sit for 2-3 days, then it's fine. But if I leave it connected, something keeps draining it =/
The battery tender is the answer if you have a garage or carport with electrical access. I have been running the tender for many years without any problems, and the battery lasts.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,022
Likes: 24
From: Avondale, AZ
Well this is a different battery then the one you saw =P Same type and model, just hawker rather than the odyssey. I have a spare PC680 sitting here.. but they both suck the same.
The battery holds a charge no problem. Let it sit for 2 days, and was still good....
Something in the FD is draining it and oh God how I hate wire tracing... UGH!!!!!
The battery holds a charge no problem. Let it sit for 2 days, and was still good....
Something in the FD is draining it and oh God how I hate wire tracing... UGH!!!!!
do a drain test on the whole thing. pull one fuse at a time until you find the offending suspect.
i can let my car sit a week in the summer with no problems, but the battery drains overnight when the ambient temp is <50. non-applicable to this situation, but they don't like the cold.
i can let my car sit a week in the summer with no problems, but the battery drains overnight when the ambient temp is <50. non-applicable to this situation, but they don't like the cold.
Originally Posted by dhahlen
It got worse after I put in my Eclipse deck. Thats it though.. I don't have anything but an aftermarket head unit as far as stereo is concerned. Normally it would last 18 or so hours.. but now its less than 15.
I watch my battery voltage when I drive, it sits around 14 to 14.9 and when I idle it's around 12.5 or so.
The alternator is charging it fine.. but it just doesn't hold a charge while connected cause something is draining it. If i disconnect the negative and let it sit for 2-3 days, then it's fine. But if I leave it connected, something keeps draining it =/
I watch my battery voltage when I drive, it sits around 14 to 14.9 and when I idle it's around 12.5 or so.
The alternator is charging it fine.. but it just doesn't hold a charge while connected cause something is draining it. If i disconnect the negative and let it sit for 2-3 days, then it's fine. But if I leave it connected, something keeps draining it =/
The Eclipse deck may be causing your drain. These days a whole hell of a lot of consumer electronics are constructed in such a way that the equipment never shuts off but, rather, remains in a stand by mode, taking power all the time. There have been some consumer lawsuits regarding these "vampire electronics".
I have one deck with a removable faceplate and it will drain 0.5 amps at 12 volt continuously unless I remove the plate. Something like that will drain your small battery pretty fast.
Get a cheap multimeter with a 10 A range on it and place it in series with either of the battery leads and just go on turning/disconnectin things if you see more than a very few milliamp consumption.
I had the 680 for quite a few months now and the car will start every time, even if it sits for 2 weeks. The only time I drained it when I left the igniton key on while I was aligning the car and forgot about it.
Albert
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,022
Likes: 24
From: Avondale, AZ
Well, I found my EGI Fuse is pulling 200mA - after I pulled it, the load went down to around 30-40mA which is normal.
Anyway, I pulled the fuse out and it was a little toasty on the bottom. My fuel pump is wired in using a seperate relay, so I need to trace the problem and find out why my EGI fuse is sucking up all the current. I hate schematics.
Anyway, I pulled the fuse out and it was a little toasty on the bottom. My fuel pump is wired in using a seperate relay, so I need to trace the problem and find out why my EGI fuse is sucking up all the current. I hate schematics.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,022
Likes: 24
From: Avondale, AZ
Ok...
My relay is wired in as such (this is aftermarket relay that was added in)
Relay has ignition signal in, and ignition signal out (obviously what activates the relay). Battery 12v in and the output goes directly to the fuel pump. Ignition switch turns on, sending signal to the relay.. allowing 12v to activate relay.. sending direct voltage to the fuel pump.
Now, my EGI fuse is constantly hot (drawing 250mA) - and I am trying to locate where it is doing this. Any suggestions?
I may have traced the current/voltage flow incorrectly, so if i did please lemme know.
The line where the 20a relay is circled on the right.. i meant to add text but i forgot. That fuse is where the 30a fuse and relay now sit. (the one i added, not the main EGI)
My relay is wired in as such (this is aftermarket relay that was added in)
Relay has ignition signal in, and ignition signal out (obviously what activates the relay). Battery 12v in and the output goes directly to the fuel pump. Ignition switch turns on, sending signal to the relay.. allowing 12v to activate relay.. sending direct voltage to the fuel pump.
Now, my EGI fuse is constantly hot (drawing 250mA) - and I am trying to locate where it is doing this. Any suggestions?
I may have traced the current/voltage flow incorrectly, so if i did please lemme know.
The line where the 20a relay is circled on the right.. i meant to add text but i forgot. That fuse is where the 30a fuse and relay now sit. (the one i added, not the main EGI)
Last edited by dhahlen; Jun 3, 2006 at 02:41 PM.
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,163
Likes: 2
From: RI
check out the buddy club battery. its the one i just bought. i was looking at batterys for a while, i have a 51r now and it is still to big. the buddy club battery is the same size as the pc680 but its stronger.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
4sfeedit
Canadian Forum
1
Sep 7, 2015 10:55 AM
NoMorePoison
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
11
Aug 18, 2015 11:18 AM
4sfeedit
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
10
Aug 16, 2015 01:42 PM
4sfeedit
Race Car Tech
0
Aug 11, 2015 04:11 PM







