Crank sensors
08-20-04, 01:46 PM
#2
development
they read the trigger wheel...there is two, so one reads a home signal. the other reads each spoke and the ecu determines when to inject fuel and when to fire a spark.
09-10-05, 02:57 PM
#4
I have had the trigger sensor go bad on me before. The car ran like ****, stuttered down low sometimes and had lots of ignition breakup higher in the RPM's. Also, if the car sat still and things started to heat soak the sensor would go all crazy, my tach would start boucing all over the place then the car would stall out and not start for about 10min or so. Replaced the trigger wheel/sensor crank sensor and re-ran the wire to the ECU, that fixed it.
09-10-05, 03:24 PM
#5
What it is Hoe, Wussup
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Yeah if you have one go bad your car wont start, or atleast thats what happened in my case, but what is wrong with your car? Also take your pullies of and take that bracket that holds them off and see if they have a magnetic charge to them.
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09-12-05, 08:31 AM
#8
I wanted to check mine, and one way to do that is to test the resistance of the sensor circuit all the way from the ECU. This is good since it also verifies the wiring is good.
To observe the signal, you will need an oscilloscope - something that a shop would probably have to do. The FSM is pretty clear in showing what the signal should look like.
Dave
To observe the signal, you will need an oscilloscope - something that a shop would probably have to do. The FSM is pretty clear in showing what the signal should look like.
Dave
09-12-05, 09:09 AM
#9
development
you can test them with an Ohm's meter. Pin out the ECU, one CAS at a time. i.e. GND and Home signal. Reading should be infinite, slide a metal object in front of the home sensor and the reading shall change to ~1.15k ohms. (I'm going from memory of the reading)
DVSseven - bad CAS won't just dump fuel in the mid range. you have other problems.
DVSseven - bad CAS won't just dump fuel in the mid range. you have other problems.
09-12-05, 10:15 AM
#10
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Yeah I Thought So As Well, My Idle And Driveability Is Great It Just Dumps Fuel And Puts Out The Fire Basically. As For The Fuel Maps, Cam At Pettit Said That The Map Itself Was Bout Perfect. We Could Not Find Why It Was Dumping Fuel. I Have Ran The System With The Stock Ecu, My M2, And Pettit's Ecu And There Was No Change In Performance. I Then I Turn Have Monitored The System With A Wolf 3d, And A Pfc And Everything Spec'd Out Fine. I Dont Know What To Do....
09-13-05, 07:54 PM
#14
development
your car has been painted...could have pinched a wire(s) putting fenders back on...check continuity from MAP sensor connector to ECU.
color ECU pin
G/Y ---> 1O
BR/W ---> 3I
B/LG ---> 4D
color ECU pin
G/Y ---> 1O
BR/W ---> 3I
B/LG ---> 4D
09-14-05, 10:43 AM
#17
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Me And Good Friends Along With Cam Have Inspected Tfpr And It Appeared To Be Fine. But Cam Has Sent Me A Set Of Secondary Injectors In A Known Good Secondary Fuel With The Fpr Attached That Is Known To Be Good. So Im Just Waiting To Install Those Along With The Primaries At The Same Time Whenver I Can. When I Changed The Motor The Thing That Were Changed Were: Act 9.5 Lb Flywheel, Flowed And Matched Injectors, Oil Injectors And Lines, 20 B Fuel Pump, I Believe That Was All At The Time Of Rebuild That Would Make Any Differences...... The Thing Is, Is That Everything Ran Fine Until After I Blew The Motor And Added These Components Now Its Does Not...
09-15-05, 11:16 AM
#20
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No, Marren Fuel Injection Flowed And Matched Them And Replaced The O-rings And Pental Caps. Verified? Well Cam Inspected Them And Said That They Benched Out Fine, But His Method I Dont Think Was To Intricate. When He So Called " Benched Them" He Basically Did It With Some Kind Of Hand-held Device Over A Shop Sink? So Im Not Too Sure That They Were Properly Tested. I Know I Know, Stop Rambling And Just Put The Damn Injectors In, I Know I Just Have Not Had The Chance Yet. Also, The Problem I Have With The Transition Was Not There When I Had The Wolf 3d In Place During Testing, Strange...
04-18-06, 05:46 PM
#22
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I don't really have anything to help you but Im having problems starting my car I put a new engine in it and now I think my crank sensors arn't communicating with my ecu. So I borrowed a sensor simulator to trick my ecu so I can try and get spark but I kinda need to know around the frequency at idle or start up so that I can try and start it. anything would help I have no spark or fuel pump unless I jumper the diagonistic connector. i think the crank sensor isn't communicating with the ecu. because correct me if im wrong but doesn't the ecu uses that signal to control both. if I didn't have crank signal then neither would work. anything would help thanks