RabbRX7

Alright guys a final update. WAS NOT the CAS! haha. Who would have guessed? I took your guys advice pulled it out of the dealership and had it towed 40+ miles away to rotorsports. It was something with the ignition coils. the trailing plugs were the only ones firing. So that was the main issue. While there, i got an exhaust leak behind the turbo fixed and had it mapped. Thanks for all the input guys, i really appreciate it!

twinsinside

iTrader: (34)

These guys know their stuff, there are some really really smart (and experienced) guys on here that are a gold mine of information.

Glad to hear everything worked out well for you.

patpatnc

thanks for the info

zxrazorxz

Did they tell u what it was... im having the same problem.

RRR Motorsports

That sounds like the crank sensor wheel sometimes if there dirty it will make the coils fire unevenly or not in sequence I have FDS come to my shop for that problem all the time

zxrazorxz

hey, thanks for the quick reply, a dirty pick up wheel. sounds like it could happen.
I noticed on my setup that I have 0 spark on the leading but I have spark on the trailing. although one of my trailing coils fires not as well as the other. they did look kinda dirty. it was weird tho. I started my car this morning drove it down town. turned it off went to see if a place was open for poweder coating. they weren't. got back in my car drove it to my ex's house parked it then it wouldn't start.

powerhour

Zxrazorxz problem was (I helped him find and fix his car for 2 days) a pulsing wire for his coils, (bottom wire on coil connecter) has a break in it from the ignitor to the first connecter (grey in color) so we replaced the wire and it worked. We jumped the wire from the ignitor over to the coil (we made our own plug with a 12v supply and then the jumper) and it worked. Just incase if some one reads this and has the same problems with the leads not firing

$crillaTor

I'm going to bring this one back from the dead a bit because I have a related problem I believe.

From everything I've read, I'm assuming my BENT crank angle sensor wheel would cause timing issues which may be my problem.

I have a 93'. The car runs fine until it gets to normal operating temperature, then it looses all engine power and dies. I can give it gas but it does nothing and the engine just stalls out. Then it won't start up again until the car has cooled down for awhile.

This started happening when I was putting a new pilot bearing in the transmission and propped up the front of the engine with a jack to align the tranny, but the jack slipped and hit the crank angle sensor wheel. It bent it a bit and I tried to bend it back but I know I didn't get it quite right. Ever since then the car acts like I described above, dying after getting warmed up.

Would a bent crank angle sensor wheel cause this?? I didn't even think about the wheel until I was reading the FSM on how to test the coils trying to troubleshoot this issue. Regardless I'm going to swap out the wheel/pulley, I'm just hoping that is the only issue...

Thanks!

Johnny Kommavongsa

iTrader: (13)

sorry for bumping this but researching my issue and came across this thread and these post sound similar to my issue.

Current state: car starts and idles fine but randomly dies after driving it for 10-20 mins (has happen 3 times). When i try and start it the tach does not bounce up up and down which makes me think i have an issue with the CAS.

Sounds very similar to Goodfella post below. The test for continuity showed positive meaning i have continuity through out the wires.



did you find the root cause of your issue? I having similar probs but im pretty sure my CAS wheel isnt bent.

I PMed both guys but wanted to see what everyone else thought.

$crillaTor

When I bent my trigger wheel and didn't realize it, the first time I started it up the wheel scraped the CAS. It was more than a scrape, more like it dug a channel in the CAS. Once I replaced the trigger wheel and CAS, all was good again.

R34240sx

iTrader: (7)

Having a similar issue with mine... We were having issues tuning the car forver, thought it was Tune, then Coilpack, then INJ, then realized that the PFC Rpm was not matching the gauge tach, so we shimmed the CAS about .3mm away from the wheel and all the sudden it works, car runs amazing, aside from needing some tuning...

I've been told this is very unsafe to have the CAS this close to the wheel. Any ideas if the PFC is bad for not being able to see the sensors until they're super close? The stock ECU saw them with no problem at all...

Any ideas?

borisf

Subscribed to this thread to find to share my diagnosis. I have some of the same symptoms that some of the posters in here mention, so hopefully there can be a collective of all possible solutions.

old thread revival quota filled for today.