Cracked front iron anyone know why this happens
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,233
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
i lost an engine at the limiter too, and it was NA. the next engine we took the 8250rpm limiter off and revved it to 9400 and it was fine
Where do you mount the engine stand to and do you use all mounting points to even distribute the load? I put my motor on the ground rather than using an engine stand for extended periods since I've seen this happen in the same spot. As the engines get older and more brittle combined with the load on that ear of a hollow portion I'll just take precautions to try to avoid something similar.
I want to give Howard Colman a huge thank you for making time for me this pass sunday, allowing me to bring him my engine and taking the time to take it apart in front of me.
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,279
Likes: 728
From: Florence, Alabama
the cause of the cracked front iron is not as yet locked down but IMO both the motor and owner had a very good day on sunday.
there were large number of build problems and it was really great that the motor came apart and will be rebuilt properly. the crank nut broke at 60 pounds and had no loctite. this could have caused a serious injury. the front bolt broke at 40 pounds.
zero endplay, and that's just all on the outside. i could go on...
the motor is being re=ported and other than the cracked iron escaped unscathed.
the front primary diffuser plate and legs were missing and may have caused the problem but there is ZERO sign of any part of the diffuser in the motor.
the front rotor has a squeezed apex seal groove and all 3 front apex seals have slightly scarred crowns and flatted shoulders. the rears are fine.
the dowel pin has both longitudinal and circumferential cracks for as much as 2 inches. there is zero disturbance at the rotor housing and mid iron.
bearings. stationary gears, crank all good to go.
still wondering as to the cause but it is really good the motor came apart given the build quality or lack thereof.
should be running (strong) in 2 weeks.
speculative initial cause: diffuser. they are not needed w EV14 injectors and i continue to suspect that the immense cooling of alcohol makes the plastic brittle and subject to failure...
howard
there were large number of build problems and it was really great that the motor came apart and will be rebuilt properly. the crank nut broke at 60 pounds and had no loctite. this could have caused a serious injury. the front bolt broke at 40 pounds.
zero endplay, and that's just all on the outside. i could go on...
the motor is being re=ported and other than the cracked iron escaped unscathed.
the front primary diffuser plate and legs were missing and may have caused the problem but there is ZERO sign of any part of the diffuser in the motor.
the front rotor has a squeezed apex seal groove and all 3 front apex seals have slightly scarred crowns and flatted shoulders. the rears are fine.
the dowel pin has both longitudinal and circumferential cracks for as much as 2 inches. there is zero disturbance at the rotor housing and mid iron.
bearings. stationary gears, crank all good to go.
still wondering as to the cause but it is really good the motor came apart given the build quality or lack thereof.
should be running (strong) in 2 weeks.
speculative initial cause: diffuser. they are not needed w EV14 injectors and i continue to suspect that the immense cooling of alcohol makes the plastic brittle and subject to failure...
howard
Last edited by Howard Coleman; May 20, 2014 at 04:39 PM.
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