Just bought a stock fd, most of my questions were answered by simply searching, but heres a few that I could not find answers too.

First of all, what is that wire underneath my drivers seat. Whatever it was I put electrical wire over the ends.



Second, there is a disconnected hose in the lower left corner of the engine bay. I could not indentify it this morning. I don't think it was disconnected when I purchased the car, but after the drive last night it may have come loose. Before I choose the reconnect this hose, I like to know exactly what it is and what it does.





Finally, my antenna is stuck half way up. It does not go down or up at anytime. Any solution for that?

 

Pic 2 is the BOV, the previous owner probably wanted to hear it go whooooosh! No harm with that as long as the hole in the airbox is blocked up.

Pic 1 is the connection for the sensor for the seatbelt I believe?

The antenna, I dont know, I dont listen to the radio, my antenna is always down. CD's for me.

 

If the antenna is stuck, you'll have to buy a new mast probably. My antenna wouldn't go up, but the motor would run, so I just disconnected the power to the motor. I still get great reception on my radio.

 

give your engine bay a clean, and that hose just goes in the back of the airbox where its being block off by the previous owner, but its ok as it is.

 

thanks for the answers.

On another note, SidewayzR1, would you recommend the Bonez SS downpipe and SS midpipe?

A downpipe is pretty much a downpipe as long as it fits from what i've read, but what about the midpipe? I was thinking about purchasing both since I know a good deal on them.

 

if you want contact 20B3rdgen, he got a good down pipe for stock turbos for sale last that i know, not a cheap one a really good one "forgot the brand" if interested

 

Dont get a downpipe and midpipe because then you will have boost spike issues. Just get the downpipe for now and get a midpipe when ever you get a new engine management.

 

yes i realize i should not install the midpipe until i get a new ecu and boost controller, but i would hate to pass up a good deal

 

also, my suspension clunks when i accelerate or brake, from what i have researched on the forums, i should replace my diff bushings first. Anyone disagree, or think it could be the pillow ***** I should replace?

 

Do you know how much louder your car will be with a mid-pipe?

 

On the second pic, the previous owner taped up the hole in the airbox. This is WAY not cool - the tape could get sucked into the airbox and a turbo could eat it. Either reconnect the BOV to the airbox, or if you want to hear the woosh, go buy a rubber chair leg cap and properly cap it up. Don't ghetto-rig stuff on this car unless you want it to bite you.

Hands down, most common rear end clunk is the pillow *****. It's not cheap to do the job ($300 for the bushings and $50 for the new rubber seals) but makes a world of difference with the car.

Dale

 

Yeah, one of those air holes broke off my stock air box while I was putting it back in last year. I got a double threaded piece of steel pipe that matched the hole and threaded it in the hole, then capped it with tephlon tape and steel end cap. Looks shitty, but it holds and i didn't have to buy a $400 air box!

 

Does having that BOV hose disconnected run any risk of boost creep, because I'm seeing some mean boost creep, or my boost gauge is inaccurate. (max 1.1 hKpa on a Blitz Dtt X Turbo Timer)

Also which hose is the primary turbo BOV, the top one or the one below it?

Hmm, does look a bit dirty in there...what do I need to know before I start cleaning my engine bay...spraying it down with a water hose just doesn't seem smart.

 

^

 

You actually only have one BOV, the lower one. The upper is actually a charge relief valve that allows boost to escape from the secondary turbo during prespool.

And if you really want to impress the girls, tell them it is not a BOV, but a bypass air control valve.