Cost of labor for clutch job?
05-07-08, 08:08 PM
#26
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i have 11lb flywheel and a unsprung twinplate, i know ur pain
clutch's arent that bad aslong as you have the tools, i can do an fc in 3-4 hours total on jackstands aslong as the exhaust isnt tempermental, a car with no emmissions or no tmic is quicker as you can just grab the bellhousing bolts from ontop without unbolting anything
as for paying to have it done, i was once quoted 500 including a napa clutch, or 300 if i provide my own new clutch
clutch's arent that bad aslong as you have the tools, i can do an fc in 3-4 hours total on jackstands aslong as the exhaust isnt tempermental, a car with no emmissions or no tmic is quicker as you can just grab the bellhousing bolts from ontop without unbolting anything
as for paying to have it done, i was once quoted 500 including a napa clutch, or 300 if i provide my own new clutch
05-08-08, 03:17 PM
#29
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also wondering the same thing between clutch differences and flywheel differences.
how would a prolite and streetlite flywheel differ from each other with conjunction of something like a Exedy twin plate, vs the ACT street/strip.
this is in reference to a street/DD car with around 300-350rwhp
how would a prolite and streetlite flywheel differ from each other with conjunction of something like a Exedy twin plate, vs the ACT street/strip.
this is in reference to a street/DD car with around 300-350rwhp
05-08-08, 04:13 PM
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05-08-08, 05:27 PM
#32
also wondering the same thing between clutch differences and flywheel differences.
how would a prolite and streetlite flywheel differ from each other with conjunction of something like a Exedy twin plate, vs the ACT street/strip.
this is in reference to a street/DD car with around 300-350rwhp
how would a prolite and streetlite flywheel differ from each other with conjunction of something like a Exedy twin plate, vs the ACT street/strip.
this is in reference to a street/DD car with around 300-350rwhp
clutches are a whole nother story. generally, high torque rated clutches have much less than stock feel. BUT, some companys, such as exedy, make twin plate clutches that can support large hp/tq applications while still retaining stock feel.
with 300-350whp, your torque will prob be around 250-270. so i would either sugest the act street/strip or the centerforce dual friction clutch. both can support up to around 350tq and still feel better than stock. you can also go with an exedy twin plate, if your plan on running much higher hp/tq setup in the future. only problem with them are the price. plan on dishing out around $1700.
i hope this helps
-adam
06-24-08, 03:03 AM
#33
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My labor only price for a complete clutch job is $450.
Keep in mind that is labor only and parts are additional.
Labor includes up to all the following:
Rear main seal on engine
Re-torque tension bolts
replacing pilot bearing and seal
replace imput shaft seal
replace clutch fork
includes locktite and gasket sealant on flywheel nut
replacing and bleeding slave if new
replacing and bleeding new stainless steel clutch line
replacing tranny tail shaft seal
replace flywheel and or clutch
grease tranny input shaft and throwout bearing seat
Here is what I have learned from first hand and from customers good and bad experiences to be the best setup for up to 450rwhp with my prices:
Racing beat stainless steel clutch line $22 + tax/shipping
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=12639
Racing beat aluminum flywheel with replacable steel friction surface with counterweight and hardware included $480 + tax/shipping
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=11449
(Note: racing beats website is wrong, the stock FD flywheel weighs 20.1# and their aluminum flywheel weighs 7.75# [7lb 12oz] and comes with a rear counterweight that weighs 4.25# [4lb 4oz] )
ACT Extreme XT Pressure plate + MAZDA throw out bearing, mazda pilot bearing and seal, MAZDA STOCK DISK! $600 + tax/shipping
if you were having symptoms similar with throw out bearing symptoms I would reccomend replacing your clutch fork as well because I have seen countless bent and broken ones and sometimes you cannot tell it is bent and end up with the same problem as before after replacing the other parts. $80
hope this helps and unless its more than 450hp then just trust me on this opinion it would be way too much for me to type details and reasons on all the negitives of every product I have tried and seen like 4 and 6 puck disks and poorly made aluminum flywheels and cheep non mazda bearings, stinky disks! etc....
the setup that I have reccomended works very smooth and quiet and reliable and quick if you are using it fast for launching and will hold the power correctly.
the flywheel is not even needed but it will last you a lifetime because you can replace the friction surface plate for $83
hope this info helps
Jeremy
Keep in mind that is labor only and parts are additional.
Labor includes up to all the following:
Rear main seal on engine
Re-torque tension bolts
replacing pilot bearing and seal
replace imput shaft seal
replace clutch fork
includes locktite and gasket sealant on flywheel nut
replacing and bleeding slave if new
replacing and bleeding new stainless steel clutch line
replacing tranny tail shaft seal
replace flywheel and or clutch
grease tranny input shaft and throwout bearing seat
Here is what I have learned from first hand and from customers good and bad experiences to be the best setup for up to 450rwhp with my prices:
Racing beat stainless steel clutch line $22 + tax/shipping
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=12639
Racing beat aluminum flywheel with replacable steel friction surface with counterweight and hardware included $480 + tax/shipping
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=11449
(Note: racing beats website is wrong, the stock FD flywheel weighs 20.1# and their aluminum flywheel weighs 7.75# [7lb 12oz] and comes with a rear counterweight that weighs 4.25# [4lb 4oz] )
ACT Extreme XT Pressure plate + MAZDA throw out bearing, mazda pilot bearing and seal, MAZDA STOCK DISK! $600 + tax/shipping
if you were having symptoms similar with throw out bearing symptoms I would reccomend replacing your clutch fork as well because I have seen countless bent and broken ones and sometimes you cannot tell it is bent and end up with the same problem as before after replacing the other parts. $80
hope this helps and unless its more than 450hp then just trust me on this opinion it would be way too much for me to type details and reasons on all the negitives of every product I have tried and seen like 4 and 6 puck disks and poorly made aluminum flywheels and cheep non mazda bearings, stinky disks! etc....
the setup that I have reccomended works very smooth and quiet and reliable and quick if you are using it fast for launching and will hold the power correctly.
the flywheel is not even needed but it will last you a lifetime because you can replace the friction surface plate for $83
hope this info helps
Jeremy
06-24-08, 05:43 AM
#36
06-26-08, 02:21 AM
#41
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everybody is acting like it is such an easy job, while it may be easy on your car does not mean it is easy on everybody's car, how easy is it to remove the factory flywheel? what about if they don't have the expensive Mazda pilot bearing puller or the installer to properly set the pilot bearing depth? or the counterweight puller if there is a rear main seal to replace on a car that already has an after market flywheel, or a flywheel lock tool, or an impact gun and the 2 1/8" socket or the flywheel nut removal tool? hard to get to tranny bolts on the top side.... the release of the throw out bearing from the clutch ring (pull type clutch)
and then theres the good ol on your back jimming of the tranny back into the car into the clutch disk and pilot bearing without letting it rest on the input shaft of the transmission causing a failure of the tranny input shaft seal
I think I have mentioned close to $300-$400 in tools alone
not trying to scare anybody because it is "not that hard" IF you have the right tools and IF you have done it before. but think about what I said before you get stuck half way and have to pay extra amounts of money having a shop fix a mistake.
If you have all the tools or access to them and you know how to use them then go for it.
hope this helps,
Jeremy
and then theres the good ol on your back jimming of the tranny back into the car into the clutch disk and pilot bearing without letting it rest on the input shaft of the transmission causing a failure of the tranny input shaft seal
I think I have mentioned close to $300-$400 in tools alone
not trying to scare anybody because it is "not that hard" IF you have the right tools and IF you have done it before. but think about what I said before you get stuck half way and have to pay extra amounts of money having a shop fix a mistake.
If you have all the tools or access to them and you know how to use them then go for it.
hope this helps,
Jeremy
Last edited by RotorMotor2; 06-26-08 at 02:30 AM. Reason: more info
06-26-08, 07:36 AM
#42
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I had my gearbox off last evening to fix an oil leak---it was the O-ring on the rear stationary gear.It took 2 of us,with all the Mazda tools,working on a hoist in our shop 2 1/2 hrs.This did not include r&r of shifter console and undershields which I removed before I took the car to the shop.
Those who think they can do a clutch replacement in 2 hrs are either on drugs or have never actually done the job.Labour charge of $350-400 is not unreasonable.
Those who think they can do a clutch replacement in 2 hrs are either on drugs or have never actually done the job.Labour charge of $350-400 is not unreasonable.
06-26-08, 12:23 PM
#43
FWIW, there's more to a proper clutch job IMO than just R & R 'ing the clutch, even if you don't have to worry about resurfacing the FW. The pilot bearing and dust seal, throw-out bearing, clutch fork and rear transmission seal should be considered for replacement. Not to mention new transmission fluid. Does the good deal include those? 
~Ramy
06-26-08, 03:05 PM
#44
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
THIS is the single most important post in this thread. And it's not in your opinion; this is a FACT. Ppl who skimp on the clutch replacement end up having to pay for the labor ALL OVER AGAIN when their pilot bearing goes bad, throw-out bearing goes bad, clutch fork snaps, etc etc. Do it once, do it right.
~Ramy
~Ramy
06-26-08, 05:36 PM
#45
Rich, of course... There are a TON of things you can do while you have the clutch out...like replace speed/reverse/misc sensors on the tranny, since they're accessible etc.
Point being, so many ppl nowadays are focusing on "how much can I get X job done for, and that's IT. I don't want ANYTHING ELSE done." Ironically, they do that cuz they're on a budget. What they don't realize is, by cutting corners, you will only lose money in the long run, guaranteed, every single time.
One of these days, we need to centralize the how-to's and reliability mods, along w/ suggestions of what to replace while you're doing a certain upgrade/repair...
~Ramy
Point being, so many ppl nowadays are focusing on "how much can I get X job done for, and that's IT. I don't want ANYTHING ELSE done." Ironically, they do that cuz they're on a budget. What they don't realize is, by cutting corners, you will only lose money in the long run, guaranteed, every single time.
One of these days, we need to centralize the how-to's and reliability mods, along w/ suggestions of what to replace while you're doing a certain upgrade/repair...
~Ramy
06-26-08, 08:35 PM
#46
Passenger
Posts: n/a
so I think that my price of $450 is more than fair for all that I do that I had mentioned earlier. the only thing that would cost extra is a $15 rear main seal and cheap tranny front and rear seals! and the clutch fork.
what do you think of that bang for your buck!? :
what do you think of that bang for your buck!? :
My labor only price for a complete clutch job is $450.
Keep in mind that is labor only and parts are additional.
Labor includes up to all the following:
Rear main seal on engine
Re-torque tension bolts
replacing pilot bearing and seal
replace imput shaft seal
replace clutch fork
includes locktite and gasket sealant on flywheel nut
replacing and bleeding slave if new
replacing and bleeding new stainless steel clutch line
replacing tranny tail shaft seal
replace flywheel and or clutch
grease tranny input shaft and throwout bearing seat
Here is what I have learned from first hand and from customers good and bad experiences to be the best setup for up to 450rwhp with my prices:
Racing beat stainless steel clutch line $22 + tax/shipping
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=12639
Racing beat aluminum flywheel with replacable steel friction surface with counterweight and hardware included $480 + tax/shipping
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=11449
(Note: racing beats website is wrong, the stock FD flywheel weighs 20.1# and their aluminum flywheel weighs 7.75# [7lb 12oz] and comes with a rear counterweight that weighs 4.25# [4lb 4oz] )
ACT Extreme XT Pressure plate + MAZDA throw out bearing, mazda pilot bearing and seal, MAZDA STOCK DISK! $600 + tax/shipping
if you were having symptoms similar with throw out bearing symptoms I would reccomend replacing your clutch fork as well because I have seen countless bent and broken ones and sometimes you cannot tell it is bent and end up with the same problem as before after replacing the other parts. $80
hope this helps and unless its more than 450hp then just trust me on this opinion it would be way too much for me to type details and reasons on all the negitives of every product I have tried and seen like 4 and 6 puck disks and poorly made aluminum flywheels and cheep non mazda bearings, stinky disks! etc....
the setup that I have reccomended works very smooth and quiet and reliable and quick if you are using it fast for launching and will hold the power correctly.
the flywheel is not even needed but it will last you a lifetime because you can replace the friction surface plate for $83
hope this info helps
Jeremy
Keep in mind that is labor only and parts are additional.
Labor includes up to all the following:
Rear main seal on engine
Re-torque tension bolts
replacing pilot bearing and seal
replace imput shaft seal
replace clutch fork
includes locktite and gasket sealant on flywheel nut
replacing and bleeding slave if new
replacing and bleeding new stainless steel clutch line
replacing tranny tail shaft seal
replace flywheel and or clutch
grease tranny input shaft and throwout bearing seat
Here is what I have learned from first hand and from customers good and bad experiences to be the best setup for up to 450rwhp with my prices:
Racing beat stainless steel clutch line $22 + tax/shipping
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=12639
Racing beat aluminum flywheel with replacable steel friction surface with counterweight and hardware included $480 + tax/shipping
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=11449
(Note: racing beats website is wrong, the stock FD flywheel weighs 20.1# and their aluminum flywheel weighs 7.75# [7lb 12oz] and comes with a rear counterweight that weighs 4.25# [4lb 4oz] )
ACT Extreme XT Pressure plate + MAZDA throw out bearing, mazda pilot bearing and seal, MAZDA STOCK DISK! $600 + tax/shipping
if you were having symptoms similar with throw out bearing symptoms I would reccomend replacing your clutch fork as well because I have seen countless bent and broken ones and sometimes you cannot tell it is bent and end up with the same problem as before after replacing the other parts. $80
hope this helps and unless its more than 450hp then just trust me on this opinion it would be way too much for me to type details and reasons on all the negitives of every product I have tried and seen like 4 and 6 puck disks and poorly made aluminum flywheels and cheep non mazda bearings, stinky disks! etc....
the setup that I have reccomended works very smooth and quiet and reliable and quick if you are using it fast for launching and will hold the power correctly.
the flywheel is not even needed but it will last you a lifetime because you can replace the friction surface plate for $83
hope this info helps
Jeremy
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