Coolant System Diagnosis
#1
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Coolant System Diagnosis
I have confirmed that I have a coolant system leak. Throughout the winter, the light/beeper would go off on some mornings, even when the system had been topped off. The warnings were very sporadic, so I ignored them and just sat while the car warmed up just to make sure it seemed ok. Back when I took my car in to have the clutch/flywheel job done, there was a ton of sediment on the hood liner and all over most of the surfaces of the UIM, alternator, boost pipes, IC, etc. I was hoping this was from my AST as there has always been a little bit of crustiness around one of the lines running into it. I topped off the coolant and didn't see much of a drop, but the other night it was significantly lower and when I pulled into the lot tonight, I had some vapor coming out, so I checked and sure enough there was deffinitely a good amount of coolant evaporating out from somewhere down in the engine. I need some suggestions on the best methods of tackling the problem. I eventually plan to replace all those untrustworthy stock lines with Earl's stuff, but I need to get the specs and a place to order from. Information on such sources would be helpful. If anyone would bet money that this is an O-ring problem, I'd appreciate if they could reiterate the O-ring fix technique on this thread. Thanks for the help.
#3
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Dude,
If you are seeing vapor then it's "probably" not your o-ring. (stock engine? how many miles?) If you are seeing vapor then it's a considerable size leak that will cause the level to drop since the system gets pressurized and will puss the cooland out. I was having trouble with coolant and usually you can tell where its coming from by which side the vapor is coming from...With mine when I saw it coming from the drivers side (US Spec) then I checked under my throttle body...If it was around the passenger side then it probably a turbo coolant line...I had to get one of my lines replaced because it was corroded. Anyway. If you find that then you can do the champaign bubble test to see if you have an o-ring problem...If you aren't seeing overflow from your overflow tank then it's not that bad yet...I currently have an o-ring leak and patched it with CRC Block Weld and have been running it for abotu 1k miles @ 10 - 12 psi of boost and it's kicking ***...Before the treatment I had about 5 minutes of thick with smoke...Now theres one puff at the moment I start it up and then it goes away in less than 3 seconds and it's more of a fuel smell than a coolant smell...Either way, the best way it to get the car up to temp where you are seeing the vapor then explore for the leak with a flash light. Once you find it you'll know where to go from there...
As far as the o-ring fix, it's all over the forum with links to the "lightening in a world of thunder site" Search for CRC Block Weld. It took me a little over a half day to complete but was well worth it...Although it is delaying the inevitable it gives you time to save for your rebuild...
Good Luck!
If you are seeing vapor then it's "probably" not your o-ring. (stock engine? how many miles?) If you are seeing vapor then it's a considerable size leak that will cause the level to drop since the system gets pressurized and will puss the cooland out. I was having trouble with coolant and usually you can tell where its coming from by which side the vapor is coming from...With mine when I saw it coming from the drivers side (US Spec) then I checked under my throttle body...If it was around the passenger side then it probably a turbo coolant line...I had to get one of my lines replaced because it was corroded. Anyway. If you find that then you can do the champaign bubble test to see if you have an o-ring problem...If you aren't seeing overflow from your overflow tank then it's not that bad yet...I currently have an o-ring leak and patched it with CRC Block Weld and have been running it for abotu 1k miles @ 10 - 12 psi of boost and it's kicking ***...Before the treatment I had about 5 minutes of thick with smoke...Now theres one puff at the moment I start it up and then it goes away in less than 3 seconds and it's more of a fuel smell than a coolant smell...Either way, the best way it to get the car up to temp where you are seeing the vapor then explore for the leak with a flash light. Once you find it you'll know where to go from there...
As far as the o-ring fix, it's all over the forum with links to the "lightening in a world of thunder site" Search for CRC Block Weld. It took me a little over a half day to complete but was well worth it...Although it is delaying the inevitable it gives you time to save for your rebuild...
Good Luck!
#4
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It doesn't sound like an o-ring problem. There are a couple hoses on top of the engine that could be causing the leak. There is one near the alternator, and then two that go to the throttle body. One of the throttle body hoses goes under the UIM and rat's nest and plugs into the top of the end plate (it's very hard to get to).
If I were you, I would take it somewhere and get a pressure test to find out exactly where the leak is (or you can rent a pressure tester from Autozone for free). Then just call Ray at Malloy and order the part(s).
If I were you, I would take it somewhere and get a pressure test to find out exactly where the leak is (or you can rent a pressure tester from Autozone for free). Then just call Ray at Malloy and order the part(s).
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Ok, sounds like I'll be digging down in my engine bay again this weekend. I've heard of Malloy, but does he have a website? I'm assuming you mean that he has the right sizes and all for the Earl's hoses that would need to be replaced. I'd rather go with Earl's than standard equipment.
#6
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Originally posted by MakoDHardie
Ok, sounds like I'll be digging down in my engine bay again this weekend. I've heard of Malloy, but does he have a website? I'm assuming you mean that he has the right sizes and all for the Earl's hoses that would need to be replaced. I'd rather go with Earl's than standard equipment.
Ok, sounds like I'll be digging down in my engine bay again this weekend. I've heard of Malloy, but does he have a website? I'm assuming you mean that he has the right sizes and all for the Earl's hoses that would need to be replaced. I'd rather go with Earl's than standard equipment.
Malloy Mazda
1-888-533-3400
Talk to Ray Crowe
#7
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Originally posted by MakoDHardie
Ok, sounds like I'll be digging down in my engine bay again this weekend. I've heard of Malloy, but does he have a website? I'm assuming you mean that he has the right sizes and all for the Earl's hoses that would need to be replaced. I'd rather go with Earl's than standard equipment.
Ok, sounds like I'll be digging down in my engine bay again this weekend. I've heard of Malloy, but does he have a website? I'm assuming you mean that he has the right sizes and all for the Earl's hoses that would need to be replaced. I'd rather go with Earl's than standard equipment.
No online catalog, but you can bookmark it for the phone number and email request form.
Dave
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#8
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Does anyone have pictures or diagrams of which two hoses these could be so that I could check them the fastest. I'm about half done with a vacuum hose kit on another FD and my car will not be able to get into the garage until the other one's done. Probably this weekend or so. I had planned on getting parts before then if possible. Thanks.
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There is a diagram of the throttle body hoses in this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...y+coolant+hose
The other hose that I mentioned is behind and to the left of the alternator. I believe it comes off of the back of the waterpump housing... it's pretty obvious after you take off the plastic intake tube.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...y+coolant+hose
The other hose that I mentioned is behind and to the left of the alternator. I believe it comes off of the back of the waterpump housing... it's pretty obvious after you take off the plastic intake tube.
#10
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Thanks for the help guys. I searched for the leak earlier today after driving the car and I couldn't find any signs of leaks around any of the hoses in the back. I topped it off about 15 minutes ago and found that the leak is up front on the filler neck. It looks like the washer on the thermostat sensor or whatever sensor that's bolted into the front of the neck is leaking. I'll check that out and see what I can do about it. If anybody has had the same thing leak, let me know if there are any tricks to fixing it.
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