13Joe

Hi All,

When i removed the coolant from the TB, and all related hardware, i re-route the hose to the hardpipe, which was previously connected to the coolant outlet of the TB.

Now im simplifying my sequentials, i noticed that i can bypass the hard pipe altogether, by connecting the coolant hoses direct from the inlet / outlet of the engine body (at the rear of the endine), straight to the inlet / outlet at the back of the coolant filler area (front of engine/ near water pump area) -- Am i making sense here?

Ok... My question is... can i just eliminate this entire system completely? As in, i plug and seal up both the inlet and outlet? As in the wise words of one forumer, "every hose counts"...

Thanks all in advance!

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

You know, I asked this question before.. I was told you sure can just plug that up from the rear plate and the waterpump housing.

But some told me that by running the line back to the front will slightly increase the flow of the hot coolant back to front. As we all now, rear rotors will be the hotter of the two. But not sure how much of a benefit it is to run it back vs. just capping the lines.

Good question!

Any experts want to chime in??

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

You can remove it. I've done this on my car a long time ago. I took the nipple out of the Thermostat housing and tapped it with a 1/4 npt then plugged it. For the rear section, I just took a small piece of hose and shoved a bolt into it with some of the gray sealant.

I've had this setup for a long time now with now problems, hope this helps.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I'm with Scrub - I've done that on MANY FC's, no ill results.

Also, it's best not to have a long coolant hose going across the top of the motor under the intake manifold. I used to do that instead, but there's just way too many opportunities for the hose to get pinched, rub against something, etc. - it's a coolant leak waiting to happen. A short piece of hose and a bolt works great, drilling/tapping/plugging even better. But, you typically can't hard-plug the rear iron with the engine assembled.

BTW, don't even THINK about the department store rubber vacuum cap jobs. They fail VERY frequently just blocking airflow - those things have no business on an FD, period.

Dale

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Thanks guys!

Maybe I should take the nipples off and block it. Any other options beside hose and a bolt for the rear plate, if the engine is already assembled?? Can I drill it, tap it, and put a bolt thru it? I guess welding it would be bad at this point.

13Joe

Hi guys,

Thanks so much for the help. I'll get on to eliminating this.



Btw dale, i dont really get this part. I was not thinking about using the bolt-in-the-short-hose bit. I was planning to buy those thick, heavy duty rubber plugs and some aluminium lock clamps to plug up the nipples. Would this do?

Thanks again.

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

Phil,
Do NOT drill and tap the rear nipple. You will get metal shavings in your coolant passages which could easily find their way to the water pump....that would not be a good thing. The bolt trick is pretty much the easiest thing you can do, no one will see it and i don't think the coolant will find it's way past the bolt with some silicone sealant on it.

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Thats true.. I was thinking maybe I could flush it out or hook up a vacuum while I was drilling it.. But maybe not. My next engine, I'll get it weld shut. Damn! I should of thought of this before..

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I've yet to see plugs that are quality enough for the job. Hose and bolt trick is by far the easiest, cleanest, and most quality way to do the job.

If the motor is totally assembled, just do the hose/bolt trick on each nipple and be done with it.

Dale

GARCO MOTORWORKS

Phil ,I tap the rear housing on all that I do .I am careful not to let chips drop in to the space .I use a small rag and grease . As you know the hole on the front where the nipple was and the factory plugs are welded before polishing .

13Joe

Thanks again for all the very constructive replies. I've proceeded to terminate the coolant line on top of the motor, plugged up both nipples, and also went on to terminate the coolant line for the heater (dont need that over here...), and plugged up both large-ish nipples (if you could still call them "nipples").

Is there any further way i can simplify the system? My car is relatively stock, and i do have the A/C (really need that over here...). I now noticed that there are 2 more nipples, both under the coolant filler area, one just top of the heater coolant line outlet. These nipples are beside where the airpumps used to be. What are these 2 nipples for? I read somewhere here that the nipples can be plugged up, or be routed to each other (AM i making sense now?)

Again, thanks much... any feedback is very very much appreciated.

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Thanks David..

I'm going to just run it from the rear to the water pump. Maybe next time.

If you want to further simplify,you could eliminate the ast. If you do a search there are tons of info on the forum.