View Poll Results: what do you think?
J-spec used engine



1
2.17%
rebuild myself



15
32.61%
rebuild through pro



29
63.04%
sell it



1
2.17%
Voters: 46. You may not vote on this poll
Coolant seals just went what now
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
I would take advantage of the flight and buy from a Japan tuner in advance. Take the core with you and trade it. ...if the price is feasable. If you are going to rebuild it yourself then you could buy parts there cheaper and bring them back. Try asking the guys in the Japan section. Otherwise if you want a cheap reman with a streetport http://www.mazdarx7engines.com/
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Oak Harbor, WA
Thanks Go racer...I did call mazdarx7engines before and found out that atkins accually does their remans... I called atkins direct and they clamed that my housings were probably ok and they would cut alot off the price of atk by going direct....
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From: Oak Harbor, WA
wow that poped 3 times.. I feel that japanese tuners charge alot more...I was just going to go to one of the recycler places and pick up the whole engine used....However I will probably go to several of the UPGARAGE stores and probably try to find a nice used aftermarket IC, and possibly a used RX6 turbo kit.....Last time I was there ...there was a used apexi RX6 turbo kit that looked in great shape ( zero play) for less than $800 for the whole kit...I sure wish I had picked it up........and what I am really going to need is an aftermarket computer!! I just hate paying like a thousand U know. lol
Hey I was thinking, how did you know you needed a rebuild. Just cuz the engine overheated once
. Like how hot? How could you tell the seals got warped, were there bubbles in your coolant or what?
. Like how hot? How could you tell the seals got warped, were there bubbles in your coolant or what?
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Oak Harbor, WA
well.. It overheated the next day and I went to the hobby shop and changed the thermostat... it overheated again on the way home...and I am virually positive that my water pump is working just fine... I had to add more coolant and water.. and more coolant and water...... I had the feeling about the coolant seals because everything else seems fine...(no puddles on the ground)
So I did a search on the forum and someone said you can tell your coolant seals are bad if you have your engine off...start it and coolant starts coming out of the ast... and also it seems like a lot of water vapor is coming out the tailpipe.........I think I am right on this.....COULD I BE WRONG!!!! please tell me if otherwise.......
And no I did not take my car over the dealer or anything...so I did not verify...(as if they could tell anyway at the dealer lol !!!!)
Does everyone agree on this one??? I have not driven it since I am waiting till I get back from Det in Japan in two weeks.
So I did a search on the forum and someone said you can tell your coolant seals are bad if you have your engine off...start it and coolant starts coming out of the ast... and also it seems like a lot of water vapor is coming out the tailpipe.........I think I am right on this.....COULD I BE WRONG!!!! please tell me if otherwise.......
And no I did not take my car over the dealer or anything...so I did not verify...(as if they could tell anyway at the dealer lol !!!!)
Does everyone agree on this one??? I have not driven it since I am waiting till I get back from Det in Japan in two weeks.
exactly what i'd do - buy with core from, Amemiya or knightsport if you're in tokyo area, or feed if you were to be in osaka. it depends on options but, usually around Y300,000 would do.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Oak Harbor, WA
Hey went out to check on the price on the engine today.... they place I went to did not have one in stock but he wanted a whole lot for a used engine thats for sure.......my friend asked on the price for a used turbo II hood for his second gen...they showed him one for a hundred.....when he quoted one for me it was a montego blue hood in perfect brand new condition wrapped in plastic...for a little over 2 hundred.....anyway...I said hey give it to me for the same price as his....he said no......FC low....FD high higher much fasta more expensive with a smile....... Prices sure have gone up over here in Japan....later
Mine blew the coolant seals just over a month ago. I went with the "pro rebuild" option & barring the fact the it's taking a while I'm happy. It's in pieces right now at KIWI RE a New Zealand tuner. (This guy exports his engines... 3 rotor 700hp-1400hp no worries) So I'm hoping to get a port job done before the engine goes back together (PFC & street port) He's even looking at throwing in an Apexi downpipe for free!! ANY reader in New Zealand check this guy out!!! www.kiwi-re.com (shameless plug)
He even had a go at the turbo shop who are repairing my standard turbos because they qouted brass bearings instead of the Mazda carbon ones (more reliable, something a noob like me doesn't know)
If you 're going to rebuild yourself & you don't know what you're doing you'll probably wind up spending almost the cost of getting it done right by a pro anyways, so why waste the time, $$ & pull your hair out???
He even had a go at the turbo shop who are repairing my standard turbos because they qouted brass bearings instead of the Mazda carbon ones (more reliable, something a noob like me doesn't know) If you 're going to rebuild yourself & you don't know what you're doing you'll probably wind up spending almost the cost of getting it done right by a pro anyways, so why waste the time, $$ & pull your hair out???
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Originally posted by Silver7
I have no faith in Mazda remans after I bought one, opened it up and it looked like it had 50K miles on it. The side housings were grooved and the rotor groove was chipped. I sent it back for a refund.
I recently opened up a reman from another car with about 20K miles on the motor. The owner had broken an apex seal. When I pulled it apart there was a stuck side seal. When I pulled it out of the rotor, the side seal was bent. It wasn't a gradual bend but more like a kink. I also noticed that more than a few corner seal springs were completely flat! The rubber inserts were also rock hard and even paritally deformed. I know these inserts get hard but I've seen motors with 20K miles and they were not nearly as bad as this motor.
I pretty much concluded the company that rebuilds these things for Mazda will pretty much use any old parts to fill the demand for these engines. I will never buy a Mazda reman again after seeing these two engines.
I have no faith in Mazda remans after I bought one, opened it up and it looked like it had 50K miles on it. The side housings were grooved and the rotor groove was chipped. I sent it back for a refund.
I recently opened up a reman from another car with about 20K miles on the motor. The owner had broken an apex seal. When I pulled it apart there was a stuck side seal. When I pulled it out of the rotor, the side seal was bent. It wasn't a gradual bend but more like a kink. I also noticed that more than a few corner seal springs were completely flat! The rubber inserts were also rock hard and even paritally deformed. I know these inserts get hard but I've seen motors with 20K miles and they were not nearly as bad as this motor.
I pretty much concluded the company that rebuilds these things for Mazda will pretty much use any old parts to fill the demand for these engines. I will never buy a Mazda reman again after seeing these two engines.
Jetmech77, I recommend getting a reman and (if you have the time and resources) dropping it in yourself. There are many small details that can go wrong building a motor that will give you grief later, and if you have 150k on your motor that sucker is trashed. I would reuse *nothing* from it. Alternately, if you are looking to make some serious power and want a ported motor than have it all professionally done.
Also, be careful when choosing your apex seals. The remans come with the new mazda oem 2 piece 2mm, which is what I used on my motor I just built. The RA seals need many more years until I feel like experimenting with them. Does any remember Hurley
? Go ahead and experiment with your catback or intercooler choice, not your apex seal choice......
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Oak Harbor, WA
Hey everyone......well I have started the block weld trick........ I have done the clean out with the Purple Power...3 times..... I have also flushed out the Purple Power......To be honest I am worried about pouring the Block Weld in......
I have read on the forum someone was talking about bypassing the turbos....UIM....radiator, and Heater Core...so I dont clog these up with the Block weld compound...
Any suggestions on how to bypass these??? Heater Core seems really easy just turn off the heater.... The Others??
I have read on the forum someone was talking about bypassing the turbos....UIM....radiator, and Heater Core...so I dont clog these up with the Block weld compound...
Any suggestions on how to bypass these??? Heater Core seems really easy just turn off the heater.... The Others??
JetMech:
I just wanted to give you the information. Hopefully its not too late, I want to make it clear though that others have also had different experiences with this process as well. It would be best to get some more information about this to make sure you really want to try this fix, before going any further. Especially if you are getting a reman. on the way you don't want to sacrifice good parts, already on your old engine if you plan to use them on your reman, if infact they can get damaged with this fix.
I just wanted to give you the information. Hopefully its not too late, I want to make it clear though that others have also had different experiences with this process as well. It would be best to get some more information about this to make sure you really want to try this fix, before going any further. Especially if you are getting a reman. on the way you don't want to sacrifice good parts, already on your old engine if you plan to use them on your reman, if infact they can get damaged with this fix.
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