doduong11

iTrader: (4)

Hey well i recently brought a used ac system and had it install on my car. I believed it was the R12 since the shop could not hook their R134 line up to it. So i bought a kit to convert to R134 ($20). Installed the kit, brought it back to the shop, they hook it up to their machine, first vacuum and drain the old stuff that was in there. Test for leaks and see if it holds pressure. Everything was fine, holds pressure and no leaks. They added new oil and freeon about 1.31bls of freeon. Now when i try turning on the A/C it doesn't get cold, still only hot air is blowing out of the vent, not even cool air. Also the compressor spins and then it squeaks and want to stop spinning. Is this the right amount of freeon that needs to be added and also does anyone know exactly where these wires need to be connected to??? 1 frrom the AC compressor and one from the evaporator? I hardwire the Compressor for testing.

ryan1

iTrader: (5)

Does the center part of the clutch spin? With the car off can you spin the center(clutch) by hand? Happen to know what your pressure readings are?

JM1FD

iTrader: (1)

1.31 pounds is 21oz...that's about the right amount.

Sounds like your compressor is dying and is likely crapping little bits of metal into the inside of the system. That means you need to replace the compressor, flush all the lines, flush the evaporator, replace the receiver drier (you did put a new one on the system to start with, right?), the expansion valve and the condenser. Condenser can't be flushed effectively since it is the parallel flow type.

The compressor and evaporator should plug into the harness...as should the high pressure cutoff switch.

doduong11

iTrader: (4)

Didn't get a chance to get the reading, but when hardwire the center clutch does spin, at first it spins fine and then about a couple seconds or so it starts to squeaks and want to stop. And no i did not replace the evaporator, i use the one came with the system i bought. Should i get a new one from Ray???

ryan1

iTrader: (5)

You need to get pressure readings to continue in your diag. Receiver/dry is what you need to replace, not the evap, but wait until you get the system up a running properly.

doduong11

iTrader: (4)

Sorry but is there a way to get the reading without having to go back to the shop???

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

You can buy a manifold gauge set for about $50 and do it yourself (which is probably less than the shop will charge for the reading).

There are various how-tos online:

http://www.ehow.com/how_5028479_use-...ld-gauges.html

doduong11

iTrader: (4)

thanks i'll try that, do they sell it at the local auto accessories store???

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

Any decent sized auto store should have them.

linnadawg

iTrader: (14)

Dont kill yourself if ur trying to do it urself. Please go by a video or something to get an idea of how to properly work on ac. Never charge the ac system through the hotside (small line) with the engine running. When you do a proper retrofit you HAVE to change every O Ring in the system. R12 O Rings are not compatiable with r134a. R134a has alot smaller molecules and will leak and eat away at the R12 O Rings. Also a good Idea to change the expansion valve on the evap core under the dash. You compressor is probably taking a **** though. Also never add liquid refridgerant to line leading into the compressor. As in turning the can upside down while ur charging and the cars running. . Its called slugging the compressor.

doduong11

iTrader: (4)

LOL thanks but i have no idea what you just wrote, but seriously You're saying that my compressor is BAD? What about the Dryer should i replace this too, Damn is like buying a whole new system!? Where and what kind of oring should i get??? Expansion valve on the evap, where and what to get or can i buy a new one that would work with the R134.

JM1FD

iTrader: (1)

Yes. We're saying your compressor is bad. Your failing compressor has contaminated the system with metal particles.

The drier should be replaced anytime the system is open.

You can get O-Rings from Mazda...they'll fit correctly. I paid something like 50 cents each.

R-12 and R-134a have similar pressures at evaporator temperatures, so it doesn't really matter what the valve is designed for. You need to know if you have a Nippondenso or MANA system to find the correct drier and expansion valve.