wstrohm

At 48,000 miles the front brake pads were replaced and the rotors resurfaced.
At 65,000 miles the rear brake pads were replaced... no note about rotors on service record.

Now we are at 98,000 miles and brake use gives a pulsing slowdown (not audible, just a pulsing effect with constant brake pedal pressure). So I'm thinking maybe front and rear pads and F & R rotors should be replaced, and I'm also thinking of doing it myself.

I priced the parts at the local Mazda dealer and it looks like this:

Front rotor: P/N FD01-33-25X, 2 req'd, $154.99 ea => $309.98
Front pad set: P/N FDZ3-33-23Z, 1 req'd, $138.41 => $138.41
Rear rotor: P/N FD01-26-25X, 2 req'd, $123.99 ea => $247.98
Rear pad set: P/N FDY1-26-43Z, 1 req'd, $80.15 => $80.15

Subtotal = $776.52 --- Sales Tax @ 7.75% = $60.18

Grand Total = $836.70

I can usually get a 10% discount from this dealer, so maybe the total would be about $753.

Have I missed anything? Are there any "deals" from known reliable dealers that can beat these prices on OEM parts? Should I consider having the rotors turned again? Mazda allows only about 0.007" reduction in rotor thickness below new.

Could the pulsing be something besides lightly warped rotors, like sticking slider pins?

Any advice would be helpful before I dive in/spend $$ on parts. Thanks!

Go48

iTrader: (7)

The pulsing is likely the front rotors out of true (aka, "warped"). You don't necessarily need to replace the rotors every time you replace the pads. If the front rotors have never been turned, just have them turned to true them up. Even if they have been turned before, check the thickness and compare that with the number on the inside of the rotor to determine if they will be within spec after turning. In fact, the rears rotors should also be turned when replacing the pads. If you decide you really need new rotors, check the pricing on TireRack.com. The basic replacement rotors will likely be less expensive than the OEMs and just as good.

Before assuming that the pads are gone, check the thickness to see if they are out of spec. They may still be within spec. No need to replace them if that's the case. If you do need to replace the pads, consider an aftermarket brand pad like Hawk. TireRack.com has those, too. May be a little cheaper and just as good or better than OEM.

BTW-turned means putting the rotors on a machine and grinding off a bit of the surface. Most shops can do that for a few bucks.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Considering you can get blanks from places like NAPA for about $60, I wouldn't bother having them turned. Generally, it's just uneven pad transfer layer on the rotor which causes the pulsing. You can usually put on a more aggressive brake pad, bed them in, and they will usually take care of the problem. Did you bed your last pads in properly?

You can also look at a kit like this:

http://turboimport.com/catalog/rx7.htm

Rotors, pads, SS lines for about $450. RX7.com has a similar kit for a little more money:

http://www.rx7.com/store/rx7/fdbrakes.html

I actually use their Bonez brake pads and love 'em.

wstrohm

Go48,

Thanks for your input. The front rotors have been resurfaced once, as I wrote above. Mazda says in the FWM that front rotor minimum thickness is 0.79" and rear minimum thickness is 0.71"... how much material is usually removed when the rotors are turned? I can mike them before doing anything, but I need to know if any would be expected to drop below the minimum after turning.

Since the front pads were replaced (recommended by dealer) at 48K miles and there is now another 50K miles on them, I plan to replace the front pad set. The rear pads were replaced at 65K miles, so I'll check those since there has been only 33K miles put on them.

mahjik,

Thanks for your input, too. I will check into those kits. Nervous about going to non-OEM for the rotors, though. I have no idea how to "bed pads in." This is a street auto, driven mostly by wifey, who is a very conservative driver.

OK, mahjik, the price convinced me... I bought the kit from Rhee (Turboimport). $493 including tax & shipping... I liked the idea of SS brake lines.

DaveW

Another point to consider when deciding whether to turn or get new rotors, is that if a rotor is already warped, even if it is then trued, it is quite likely that it will warp again, due to the combination of material removal and non-uniformities that may have caused it to warp in the first place. Considering how inexpensive new rotors are now, I would definitely get new ones.

Since this is street driven only, I would go with OE pads to avoid any possibility of difficulties in bedding, squealing, etc.

wstrohm

What size flare nut wrench is required for the brake lines? (I have 8 mm - 14 mm in my toolbox.)

Smitter

10mm

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Here you go:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml

wstrohm

Smitter & mahjik,

Thanks! Great responses, all!

DaveW

IIRC, you should not have to disassemble the fluid lines to do pads and rotors...

Dave

wstrohm

You are probably right... but if I intend to replace the OEM brake lines with SS lines...

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

If it's be a while, and since your doing everything else....maybe just have a trusted shop install the lines and flush the system with new fluid at the same time. ??

hades

iTrader: (4)

I too am getting ready to redo my brakes - rotors, pads, rebuild / paint calipers.

I would like to use OEM style blank rotors. It seems though that every where I look online a company (napa, oreillys...) can supplier the rear, but not the front and vice vera. How big of a deal is it to mismatch rotor companies

thanks,

sip

I would check around for better prices on the OEM stuff. I'm getting all 4 OEM rotors for $240 shipped. I'd check Malloy Mazda or just order Brembo blank front rotors from the tirerack.com at $55/rotor.

wstrohm

To the later posters,

I have already ordered rotors, pads, and SS brake lines today from this vendor, but thanks for your inputs.

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

I run Powerslot cryo rotors and HAWK HP+ pads. All togethor was like $550 CAD, which is like $475US.

keep looking around, your prices are VERY high. For $700, I could replace my rotors, pads, add stainless lines AND rebuild my calipers (no labour... as I would be doing it)

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

Now bleed the brakes properly after the line replacement.



Later

BC-FD3S

iTrader: (2)

that seems to be a good kit. did you get the HAWK pads?

as part of your regular maintenance/checkups, you should keep an eye on the rotors. since the slots don't go the edge and they have those funny dimples... you can get build-up in them. but other than that they should be good.


remember, when bleeding your brakes start with the farthest caliper from the master cylinder. your bleeding should go.. pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front.

wstrohm

So my front brakes are finished... new pads, new rotors, wheel cylinders overhauled. Just started working on the right rear caliper. When I removed it, the parking brake setup looked normal, and the operating lever on the caliper was in the right position. But some time between taking the caliper off, and removing the piston, something changed, and I don't know if it should have or not. With the piston out, the end of the threaded "adjuster" sits just about even with the end of the cylinder, and the operating lever is fully toward the caliper body. I can't move the lever away more than about 15°, and the threaded rod moves outward instead of inward, about 0.010" before the lever jams.

Does unscrewing the piston somehow mess up the position of the lever or the stuff inside that I haven't touched (i.e. the snap ring and everything behind it)? It was very hard to turn the piston, and I'm wondering if something went terribly wrong. I haven't done anything yet to the left rear caliper, and its operating lever looks correct.

Does anyone have any idea what might have happened? I followed the '94 manual to the letter.

wstrohm

Rear caliper problem solved.

End...

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

For the benefit of others, I bought four Centric rotors for $100 and a set of Axxis Ultimate pads for $100 and am very happy with them. For a street car, I'm not sure there is much of a reason to spend more.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Did you get the mechanism moving again?

Dave

wstrohm

Dave,

Yes, after I threaded the piston back into the cylinder, I was able to push the operating lever "over a hump" and it relocated properly. On both RR and LR cylinders, I just replaced the piston seal, dust cover, and retaining ring, leaving everything else as is.

Now my problem, having bled all 4 calipers, is air in the system which doesn't want to come out. I have a large sealed can of DOT-3 brake fluid which I could use to continue bleeding, but there are no bubbles coming out any of the Speed Bleeders, and I don't know where else to look.

Thanks much for your advice!

wstrohm

Air in brake system is now gone... going old school (two persons) on the bleeding technique, and not depending on the Speed Bleeders with only one person, solved the problem. Most of the retained air was in the rear wheel cylinders.

New problem... brakes work fine, but at full right or left lock there is a "scrubbing" sound when driving. Jacked up the front end, and found the inner edges of each front tire rubbing against the edge of the plastic fender well shield. Right tire rubbed at left lock, left tire rubbed at right lock. Cut away the offending plastic area, and now the wheels could be spun (with front end jacked up) at full lock with no noise at all. Put the car down off the jack, and pulled a folded towel over the top and front of both tires at full lock... no interference, plenty of clearance. Got back in car, drove down the street, and... the rubbing noise is still there at right or left full lock! Cannot find what is rubbing what!!

Any ideas? Wife is going bananas...

rxhead

I bought that same kit... after installation, the car would screech down the road badly. Turned out the front rotors they sent me were warped. I sent back them back... waited about 4 weeks for a new set, same damn thing. I ended up turning my old ones (they were within spec). No more noises.