What should I have on hand before undertaking the hose job? Besides the obvious hose and tie wraps, of course. So far here's my list. Am I missing anything?
Hose kit
Lighter
razor
throttle body gasket
intake plenum gasket

 

punching bag and gloves

 

Long, needle nose pliers, straight and bent-nose

If you're going to take out the rats nest rack, then also something to get those stupid F'n screws loose - like an impact screwdriver or super vise-grips.

Dave

 

^^^ Yes those pliers are critical.
I also grabbed a tube of silicone weatherstrip adhesive, which I applied to each nipple with a toothpick just prior to attaching hose/tie wrap.
Alligator clips.
As far as other handy tools to have, you might want to invest in a hand vacuum pump w/gauge (as in a brake bleed kit or a 'MityVac') and a footpump for applying pressure. All for testing your solenoids and actuators and check valves.

 

I suggest instead getting the Mityvac Silverline series pump. It does 15 psi pressure and vacuum in one unit. Online, the kit is only $60. Plan ahead and buy one, don't do what I did and settle for second-rate substitutes bought locally.

Dave

 

Beer.... For after of course.

 

If you have the metal UIM and TB gaskets, they are reusable.

-b

 

Craftsman Bolt-Off® worked great for removing the stripped philip head screws holding down the rats nest. Awesome for getting that pita ones facing the firewall

 

i gotta ask man, wtf is the Lighter for?

 

to soften the old rubber hoses on the plastic solenoids as to not breaking them (the solenoid's nipple) during removal

 

Doesn't sound like a good idea and shouldn't be necessary. Just slit them with an x-acto, insert a fine-bladed screwdriver and twist to crack it open.

I should have taken some pics, but I did a nice (imho) solenoid nipple repair with superglue and JB-Weld. Used just the tiniest bit of superglue to carefully hold the nipple in place - worked the solenoid to ensure it did not bind - then filleted the JB-Weld around the base of the nipple to provide support and a positive seal.

So whether or not you're doing a hose job, always have JB-Weld on hand. It is one of those indispensable toolbox items. Works miracles!

Also get some electrical parts cleaner. Works great to blast the crap off from around the solenoids, leaves no residue to make the nipples slippery (gotta hate those slippery nipples), cleans the contacts, and is theoretically easy on the plastics.

Oh, and if you want to get the solenoid rack off by removing those 4 infamous phillips-head screws, make sure you have a small ratchet, an adapter for the ratchet to fit a screwdriver bit, and a short phillips-head bit. No other way to do it.

 

And make sure you have plenty of money in the checking account for ordering check valves and replacements for everything you break My third shipment of little parts is on its way from Malloy right now!

 

I just used a good screwdriver and they all came out fine. But they haven't been in there for too many miles.

 

How were you able to get a screwdriver on the firewall-facing screws? I would think you would need either a stubby or a flex-shaft - or the ratchet setup

 

I just shuffled through my different sizes of snap-on screwdrivers, they grip the screw excellant. And I almost have every size imaginable.

 

DP

 

Thanks for the tips. Maybe this job will only be extremely annoying rather than cardiac arrest inducing. Car has 48K miles, but I'd rather get them before they get me. Did anyone here use the hose kit from rx7store, or hoses from mazdatrix? I've heard all this crazy talk about materials and stuff.

 

Are you having issues with the SEQ setup?
if you arent, dont mess with the hoses untill you are, as you may have issues after your are done.

I will never again try to fix something that isnt completely broken on this car.

 

You might consider wearing some thick leather gloves if you need to cut the old hoses.

 

i too dont see why flaming up the hoses with a lighter would be so good idea. I just used snippers and slowly cut down the middle of the old hoses, you'll get to a certain point where it will just unseize itself off the plastic nipple and voila.