So I finally started working on getting the 7 moving again.

Clutch and Flywheel, stainless clutch line are the priorities.
Also being done are dp ceramic coated, tapped for EGT and O2 tuning, 1300 secondaries, oil pedastal, FPD replacement, Pettit Hi-Flow cat.

Here are some shots:


A helpless 7



The primary expertise here.



A spec Stage II clutch and a ACT Prolite Flywheel, equipped with POS bolts.

 

One used clutch. Centerforce with 35K miles. According to Justin, a properly broken in centerforce should last longer. When removed, the "fingers" were flush and concave, the clutch was flush with the flywheel.


One stock, mildly used flywheel. Suitable for polishing and posting on EBay as a genuine RX-7 part

 

OK. Given the reports here of people who had forks crack after upgrading clutches, I decided to play it safe and install the new reinforced one. Looking at the old one, I think I already had one in there. The old part number, or the number cast on it was 3S2 the new one has 6E2 on it.

 

Here is a shot of the FC3S.org FD pedastal. After a year+, it is finally going in. Very easy to get to the rear mounting nut from under the car with the tranny out

 

Put a blanket under the car to save your back. I wish I did.

 

thats the same clutch im going to install this month. i want a VMOUNT now!

 

Here is the dp (Pettit, stainless), all set for shipping tomorrow to get ceramic coated.


From Right to Left: stock O2 sensor, DEFI EGT, tuning/testing Wideband O2.
EGT located high for temps, 02 located low for easy access.

 

Side question: Where does one find a plug for my extra 02 sensor/wideband bung?

 

atpturbo.com sells the plugs

 

hey

i am about to do a clutch job myself. Do you really need a engine support? the engine mount is still on there right. can i just use a jack to support the engine if it does drop a little.

thank for your input.

 

That isn't the trick! A deep socket used between the engine and the engine subframe? works great. I'll verify, or take a pic later.

 

I just installed a DP in my car. Be sure and test fit with the studs and nuts before you send it off to get it coated. I had to beat a flat a spot on my DP in order to get the nut on the bottom rear stud. Note: mine is not Pettit. It was from rx7.com.

Fortunately I did a test fit before I wrapped mine with ThermoTec wrap or I would have had to re do it. In your case, it would suck to have to beat on your new ceramic coating.

Richard

 

That is not an issue at all. This DP came off the car

In addition, it is a Pettit, not an Ebay special, so it fits fine.

I didn't coat it before, or tape it, and regretted it. So it was sent off.

 

It is now back

Err, and black.

Here are some shots of it














Cost of coating was 90.00, rest was shipping. This is the black, rated up to 2000F coating. They also do a silver coating, but that is only good for 1400F. Used for heater boxes and other things on Porsches, etc. This is the standard for headers, etc.

This is the guy that did it, and here is some info

Industrial Ceramic Coatings

This is an external coating only, but there is overspray, or whatever on the ends.