clutch wont work right
#1
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clutch wont work right
Ok i was driving and clutch went to the floor and then wouldnt go into gear. I figured it was the master or the slave, so i replaced both.
I start the car and push in and nothing still wont go into gear. If i just slightly press it, it is vibrating? When it first happened the clutch still held fine in gear so i really dont think i need a new clutch it was rock solid before this happened.
Also i noticed that when the pedal is fully pressed in it does not vibrate, but usual there is less preasure when fully disengaged and it feels hard???
Any input would be good someone has had to have this problem before, i searched and didnt find anything like it.
I start the car and push in and nothing still wont go into gear. If i just slightly press it, it is vibrating? When it first happened the clutch still held fine in gear so i really dont think i need a new clutch it was rock solid before this happened.
Also i noticed that when the pedal is fully pressed in it does not vibrate, but usual there is less preasure when fully disengaged and it feels hard???
Any input would be good someone has had to have this problem before, i searched and didnt find anything like it.
#3
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Ha yeah i just searched under pedal vibration, sounds like it is definetly a broken fork. That sucks, i take it i have to take off the whole trans now? Are there any good aftermarket alturnatives or just buy an oem???
#4
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Yeah, the whole trans has to come off. Just get a fork from Ray at Malloy. He quoted me for half of what my local mazda stealership did, and shipping is $10 flat rate.
Supposedly there's a new type of oem clutch fork. Personally I think its still a bad engineering design because I learned in Dynamics that you can't have a cross beam in the cast, and that it will make it a weak spot. Inevitably, it'ts always going to break there first. You'll see what I mean when you take off your clutch fork.
good luck.
Supposedly there's a new type of oem clutch fork. Personally I think its still a bad engineering design because I learned in Dynamics that you can't have a cross beam in the cast, and that it will make it a weak spot. Inevitably, it'ts always going to break there first. You'll see what I mean when you take off your clutch fork.
good luck.
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Ha great you would think with thes happening all the time someone would come out with a better design or better material. I found one at mazda trix for 110 but i will call and see what they run from malloy, thanks
#7
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http://www.cdpautomachine.com/ecatalog/cryo.html
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#8
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They are fine for stock performance and stock components. As with anything, when you begin to push it beyond what it was designed to do, you shorten it's life. You could always try having a new one cryo treated before installing it.
http://www.cdpautomachine.com/ecatalog/cryo.html
http://www.cdpautomachine.com/ecatalog/cryo.html
#10
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I highly recommend pulling the engine versus dropping the PPF & Tranny if you are goin to do it your self and do not own a car lift -- I can pull and re install an engine in 5 hours with relative ease, dropping and re-installing a transmission when the vehicle is on car jacks with limited clearance is not only a pain in the *** but extremley dangerous IMO
#11
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yeah i spose it wouldnt be a bad idea to pull the motor never done it before this sucks i just got everything put back together. Oh well i guess i dont really have any other options.
#12
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Im going to disagree with the pulling the engine for a clutch... it is rather easy even on jacks. hell i did mine for the 3rd time on jacks by myself 4.5hrs.
reason i dont recomend engine is unless you have a new engine wiring harness that isnt all brittle and jacked up you risk damaging it. and i hate seeing the "i did a clutch now it dosent run" posts cause a wire broke that you dont know about. not to mention a tranny is loads easier to do that an engine. if you are weak and cant do it yourself get a friend. you do have friends right??
my 2c
z
reason i dont recomend engine is unless you have a new engine wiring harness that isnt all brittle and jacked up you risk damaging it. and i hate seeing the "i did a clutch now it dosent run" posts cause a wire broke that you dont know about. not to mention a tranny is loads easier to do that an engine. if you are weak and cant do it yourself get a friend. you do have friends right??
my 2c
z
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I dont think i would have the i pulled my motor and it wont start i have taken it down to the bear bones and had no problems, but yes my harness is in dier need of being re raped it is very brittle. Yes i do have a few friends but the are all imaginary.
#14
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I just pulled mine last weekend to install a new clutch fork. Although it might be unsafe to do it on jacks, if you have a tranny jack it will be fine. A friend on the forum let me borrow his tranny jack and everything pretty much worked out. The first time I ever did it, I used a regular jack on the flat part of the tranny and hoisted the rear of the tranny though the shifter well and fastened the towing rope outside of the car. It went up pretty easy that way too, and the second time I did it i had a friend and we pretty much bench pressed it up.
I would recommend you replace everything that hasn't been replaced in a while (rear main seal, pilot bearing/seal, front and rear tranny seals, throwout bearing, clutch collar).
I would recommend you replace everything that hasn't been replaced in a while (rear main seal, pilot bearing/seal, front and rear tranny seals, throwout bearing, clutch collar).
#15
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Well i got my trans about ready to pull and the and the throwout wont push back twards the engine so i can pop it out? I also am pretty sure my clutch fork is not broken.
I was looking and i see hella fibers poking out of the clutch, is it possible that it blew up and is obstructing the throw out from moving against the fingers on the clutch????
Well hope that someone understands what im trying to say
I was looking and i see hella fibers poking out of the clutch, is it possible that it blew up and is obstructing the throw out from moving against the fingers on the clutch????
Well hope that someone understands what im trying to say
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i can have a tranny out in an hour and back in in an hour and a half plus clutch removal and instal. motor if it goes well 3 hr to pull and 4 to put back +all the fluids and what ever u break along the way
pull ur pud not the motor
pull ur pud not the motor
#17
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ok there has got to be clutch material all over in front of the clutch fingers i cant budge it i guess the only thing i can think of doing now is just undoing my clutch bolts one at a time till it comes with the throwout bearing this blows
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[ATTACH][ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH]
well i pulled the trans back and the springs fell down that cant be good. Anyhow looks like it fell down and was blocking the throwout from coming to the engine.
I am now wondering if i should upgrade to a heavyer clutch, that was an exedy. I would estimate my power is about 300 to 340, i auto cross quite a bit too. dont know think i am going to go with the exedy again any input????
well i pulled the trans back and the springs fell down that cant be good. Anyhow looks like it fell down and was blocking the throwout from coming to the engine.
I am now wondering if i should upgrade to a heavyer clutch, that was an exedy. I would estimate my power is about 300 to 340, i auto cross quite a bit too. dont know think i am going to go with the exedy again any input????