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clutch is sticking to the floor?

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Old Sep 5, 2004 | 02:02 PM
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clutch is sticking to the floor?

every so often the clutch sticks to the floor, or takes a second to pop back out. if i pull it back up with my foot it works fine after that.

so is this just the slave cylinder? or will i also need a master cylinder?
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Old Sep 5, 2004 | 02:24 PM
  #2  
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Most likely the master cylinder. I had the exact same problem and it was the master cylinder... which fortunately it easier to replace than the slave... unless you have really tiny hands and wrenches.

-John
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Old Sep 5, 2004 | 04:43 PM
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when I had this problem it was the slave, good luck
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Old Sep 5, 2004 | 05:24 PM
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I have the same problem , looks like it the slave cylinder.
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Old Sep 5, 2004 | 06:36 PM
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Slave is cheaper and easier to change, start there FIRST then move up to the master.
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Old Sep 5, 2004 | 06:43 PM
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I had a similar problem where it was just a pinhole leak in the clutchline, got a braided replacement and was good to go. If it sticks until you pull it up yourself check that.
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Old Sep 5, 2004 | 06:45 PM
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umm, i think you guys are wrong... its the clutch line..

tell me, is it still stock?? jack the car up and look at the end of the line close to ground.... its all oil. you need to change that. mine was like that too and it fixed it. my firend also had that problem and i told him what it was without even looking at it...... he bought a stainless steel one and the problem was solved!!

let me know if thats the problem! im 95% sure it is.. also, its a real cheap fix... i think it was like $30
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Old Sep 5, 2004 | 10:53 PM
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Clutch line is possible to, but that will usually imply a leak. Since no leak was mentioned.....

$8 for a slave overhaul kit maybe cheaper in the US
$50 for a Master Cyclinder overhaul kit maybe cheaper in the US.

Just for some extra info, my clutch did this, no leaking and just stick on the floor sometimes at the light, it was the MASTER CYCLINDER. Once again though, its a lot smarter, easier and cheaper to start with the slave..
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Old Sep 6, 2004 | 01:47 AM
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slave for me.

mines lasted til 234k miles.

then shortly after the master went out.
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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 07:45 PM
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BATMAN---Im right with you on that. Same exact thing happened. It was I think within that week I changed my slave the master went out.
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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 08:15 PM
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they see equal duty so they do tend to go in pairs. lots of place will do both regardless of which one fails
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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 08:32 PM
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i would just change out the master/slave/ clutch line all at once.
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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 09:02 PM
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I have a similar problem right now except not only does it stick buy my clutch seems to catch at different places, meening that the car will go in gear when the clutch pedal is on the floor and sometimes when it's really high.

Do you guys think that I have a similar problem as yours? If not any suggestions on what my problem might be?

How much do you guys think they should charge to repair it?
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Old Sep 7, 2004 | 09:06 PM
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Master Cylinder or Slave Cylinder...
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Old Sep 8, 2004 | 03:14 AM
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Originally Posted by liavb21
I have a similar problem right now except not only does it stick buy my clutch seems to catch at different places, meening that the car will go in gear when the clutch pedal is on the floor and sometimes when it's really high.

Do you guys think that I have a similar problem as yours? If not any suggestions on what my problem might be?

How much do you guys think they should charge to repair it?
does it matter on temps like cold in the morning or hot?

could be the master cyc or slave. The slave tends to be just broken or not broken, i havent heard of it working and not working, but if its leaking it could do that also. Masters I have heard intermentant problems sometimes.

Either way, start with whats cheapest unless you got cash, go with what mazdaspeed00 said unless you already upgraded your clutch hose.
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Old Sep 8, 2004 | 12:38 PM
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yep

im going to replace all 3 and order the parts this week

now should i get a new master cylinder and slave or are rebuilds trustworthy?

i ve had quite bad experiences with turbo rebuilds and a/c compressor rebuilds.

but the rebuild kilts run about 25$ where as each new cylinder is close to 100$.
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Old Sep 9, 2004 | 02:46 AM
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I didnt think they had rebuilds for the MASTER oh well if the cyclinder isnt all deformed or pitted I would just overhaul it, same check for both parts..
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Old Sep 12, 2004 | 11:58 AM
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do you guys know how much something like this should run me if I went to a mechanic and if I have to replace both the slave and master cylinder or if I had to replace the clutch line?
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Old Sep 12, 2004 | 12:06 PM
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curious to see what is really wrong, the slave, master or line...who will be the right one...
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 03:30 PM
  #20  
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does anyone know how much it should run?
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 08:06 AM
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ok the problem was the clutch master cylinder.

when i removed it, there was no fluid in the hard line that goes up the firewall to the slave cylinder.

also there was brake fluid leaking from the push rod that goes to the clutch into the driver compartment. thats probalbly why itd get stuck to the floor since there was air in the lines and it was leaking.

its real easy to replace, just have to bleed the slave can take some time.

cost is about 80+ for a new one.
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 12:31 PM
  #22  
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get the slave while you are at it. odds are good that it will go out in short order. if you have the funds just do it together.
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 01:51 PM
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Just wanted to add something to this thread. I just rebuilt my slave cylinder (not i but the mechanic) and well it was great for about 24 hours then it started acting up. And now 3 days later Im without a car again. DO NOT BE CHEAP WITH THE FD BUY A NEW ONE. I called up Ray Crowe at Malloy he quoted me 85$ for a new one. Not to shabby and their always instock.
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 10:53 PM
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yeah my problem was a slave and master. Ray at malloy Mazda has the best prices and super fast shipping. I bought a motor mount from him once, it was almost $100 cheaper than my local Mazda dealer. Get your parts from him
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