Hyperite

My clutch has been doing the slip slip slip for quite some time now, and I'm finally going to drop in an ACT Street/Strip and 9.5 flywheel this weekend. Any tips? I've got all the tools, all the know-how, and presuming rx7store gets me the parts, I've got my weekend planned. Any little things you guys have discovered in the process that might save me a few angry words would be great.
~Tom

wingsfan

Get a transmission jack. Somehow or some way find one to rent or buy one. It will save you time, effort, and tons of frustration. At the very least borrow a friends jack so that you have one jack supporting the differential and another to raise and olower the tranny. I had no issues lowering, but raising back into place I needed a friend there to help balance the tranny. It's not heavy, moore awkward than anything else.

Be prepared to take the UIM off if you can't reach the top bolts of the tranny with it on. If you do take the UIM off be supercarefull you don't break the Double throttle control solenoid that is attached to it. It's super easy to break, and then you'll end up deciding whether you want to replace the solenoid or eliminate the DTC.

Getting the collar/throwout bearing to release through the view ports takes some skill and a big *** screwdriver. I poked around for about 10 minutes before mine popped loose. I still like that better than discennecting the pressure plate though.

Print this page out and bring it into the garage with you, check off things as you go:
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/clutch_install.html

Just go slow and make sure you know what you're suposed to do before you do it. I spent a good deal of time rolling out from under the car because I'd forgotten what order I was supposed to do things in, or I wanted to take a look at the service manual.

Good luck. Oh yeah, beer helps alot with all the little cuts and scraped knuckles.

AMRAAM4

Don't plan on it this weekend from my experiences!!!

mfigr1

make sure you check the condition of the throw out bearing release fork. When I originally did my clutch I just ignored it. I started having clutch problems again and later found out it was a worn/damaged fork.

Hyperite

Just talked to them, clutch has shipped, flywheel & counterweight are being overnighted this afternoon, so that's AOK by me!


Thanks! I'll be sure to pay special attention to it.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

You might be ready to order a new oil seal for the pilot bearing. Mine was trashed when my clutch was changed out (and the clutch kits don't come with a new one of those).

Hyperite

I did, my mazdatrix order arrives tomorrow

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Good deal. Make sure to leave the flywheel nut still on the end so the flywheel doesn't come off on your head (almost learned that one the hard way).

Other than that have fun and just get some protective eye wear. All kinds of crap will be falling into your face down there.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

There are two ways to disconnect/install the pressure plate. You can do it in the tranny in, or out. If you remove the tranny with the pressure plate in, you will need to unbolt the six bolts thru the inspection hole. Not difficult. This allows you to remove everything, and gives easier access to releasing the fork and bearing.

Installing the tranny with the plate in it, lets you avoid having to line up the disk and pressure plate with an alignment tool.

This is how I did mine. It was recommended by a mechanic who works on these cars regularly.

Hyperite

Hmm...I have the alignment tool and I'm dropping the trans anyway, so I suppose I'll pop the pressure plate w/o the tranny on, agreed?

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

Yep. easier with the tranny off. Also check the rear main seal for leaking oil. I saw that you had a Mazdatrix order don't know if thats on it. Ray Crowe could get you one overnight probably. ( That guy rocks) Every RX i have done a clutch on the rear main seal was bad. 10 bucks is cheap insurance. Dave

Hyperite

Mazdatrix Order:
1) 1 49-220TB TOOL FLYWHEEL STOP $22.89 $22.89
2) 1 49-0033-03 TOOL CLUTCH ALIGN $3.00 $3.00
3) 1 10-5020-N3A1 GASKET FRONT COVER $17.27 $17.27
4) 1 10-556A-1668 SEAL OIL REAR MAIN $8.32 $8.32
5) 1 40-3050-RF36 GASKET EXH CONVERTER $8.02 $8.02
6) 1 17-1030-H501 SEAL TRANS FRT INPUT $3.85 $3.85
7) 1 17-335A-R501 SEAL TRANS REAR $16.20 $16.20
8) 1 11-711B-0810 NUT FLYWHEEL $11.48 $11.48
9) 1 11-D030-N326 CLUTCH PILOT BRG $9.37 $9.37
10) 1 11-4040-1881 CLUTCH PILOT SEAL $2.41 $2.41

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

Nice!! Do you have the FW puller tool? I've tried all the others I could buy and nothing except the mazda one worked for me. (bent all the other flat bar types i tried and broke the bolts off.) Good thinking on the trans seals. I forgot that one last time on mine....Just saw you said you had ALL the tools. My bad!

wingsfan

Bah, flywheel puller. I broke two of the generic pullers before I ended up beating on it with a wood splitting wedge and a 4lb hammer. Eventually swearing at it and hanging off of it with all 215 lbs of my body weight broke it loose. Ahh, the good old days.

Hyperite

I actually don't have a FW puller, I plan to just smack the hell out of it for a while w/ a dead-blow hammer. I've got that pilot bearing tool though, that'll come in handy.

wingsfan

Make sure you lube the hell out of the pilot bearing when you put it back in. I'd bet that the pilot bearing is where most people screw up the install. I left mine alone because I didn't have the tool.

If the dead blow hammer doesn't work go get yourself an old splitting wedge. I paid $5.20 for mine. Also, make sure that you have the flywheel nut threaded on when you start to take the flywheel off. They literally "pop" off, and if you're under it and not expecting it you could do some nasty damage to yourself.

Hyperite

Yeah, I've heard...I'll be careful. I'm on my way to sears now to get the socket to get that ******* nut off, just realized my set only goes up to 2" @ 1/2" drive, which is what my impact wrench is.

wingsfan

Sears will be 12 point and 3/4" drive if they have it. You might want to try your local shucks or equivilant and see if they have it in 6 point (12 point will work, but why risk rounding off such an important piece). I got mine from mcmaster (which wouldn't help you for this weekend obviously). My impact is also 1/2" drive, just buy a 1/2"->3/4" adapter and you'll be fine.

Hyperite

Right you are, it's only available in 3/4".... I think I'll have to make do with the 12-point and adapter, since I've never heard of Shucks, and the auto places around here don't have any damned sockets.

Hyperite

OK, so how do i *use* the pilot bearing removal tool?

clayne

Seriously get an extra jack like the first person mentioned.

If you don't you'll be swearing to get one the next time you do this as your frustration goes through the roof while trying to man-handle a transmission into place.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Insert the tool into the pilot bearing. Open the tool so it grabs the pilot bearing. Slam the plunger to the back to knock the pilot bearing out of the shaft.

Hyperite

Awesome, that makes sense, i didn't realize it opened. And clayne, I have 5 or 6 jacks...more than plenty.

AMRAAM4

How's the job going???

Hyperite

Well, it's coming along nicely....at the end of the day, i've got everything out....tomorrow will be the re-install day. Pilot Bearing & Flywheel took a TOTAL of 5 minutes to remove. Granted I have the Mazda Pilot Bearing SST & a 1000 ft-lb imact wrench Just put the new rear main seal in (mine was leaking for about 2 years now?), and about to re-torque the rear housing. Then bedtime. there's some pics at http://www.phrogger.com/hyperite/Clutch/ just random shots (I'm much dirtier now....). Ignore the paint can under the tire. It's my "Something's gone wrong, roll out!" 10 second crumple zone.