Clutch hose is leaking that goes to the slave cylinder-How easy is the fix?
11-26-01, 07:02 PM
#1
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Clutch hose is leaking that goes to the slave cylinder-How easy is the fix?
Just wondering if this is a pretty easy job. Any hints on bleading the line etc...would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Thanks!
11-27-01, 10:10 PM
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its a easy fix. all you need is a 10mm tubing wrench..( a reg box end wrench will strip it!!) get a ss line while your there www.2krd.com sells them along with rotorsorors racing, and pretty much everone else...
as far a s bleeding its an excuse to put in speed bleeders and bleed the barkes with a high performance fluid (ate superblue or motul 600)
put clear tubing over bleed screw
but pres down clutch a few times, then open the bleed screw..press to floor, close screw, release pedal, and repeat till fluis is buble free, and clean looking.
and make shure master cilinder is topped off
as far a s bleeding its an excuse to put in speed bleeders and bleed the barkes with a high performance fluid (ate superblue or motul 600)
put clear tubing over bleed screw
but pres down clutch a few times, then open the bleed screw..press to floor, close screw, release pedal, and repeat till fluis is buble free, and clean looking.
and make shure master cilinder is topped off
11-28-01, 04:49 PM
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no problem, puttin in ss lines and racing fluid prob made the bigest difference, instead of wondering where the pedal feel was, the brakes felt like a rock, and you could feel the clutch more...great upgrade and easy to do
opps just realised my links didnt work earlier
http://www.k2rd.com/Online_Catalog/FD3S/FD3S-index.htm
or www.rotorsportsracing.com
opps just realised my links didnt work earlier
http://www.k2rd.com/Online_Catalog/FD3S/FD3S-index.htm
or www.rotorsportsracing.com
11-28-01, 05:50 PM
#5
NYC's Loudest FD
Rotary Performance sells the braided line as an exact replacement for the factory one. Here's the link:
http://www.rx7.com/cgi-local/3catalog.cgi?cat=2&part=5
It sells for $38.00, I've seen this happen especially with 3rd. Gens with very strong pressure plates, so just change to the stainless one and you never have to worry about it again.
http://www.rx7.com/cgi-local/3catalog.cgi?cat=2&part=5
It sells for $38.00, I've seen this happen especially with 3rd. Gens with very strong pressure plates, so just change to the stainless one and you never have to worry about it again.
Last edited by RX794; 11-28-01 at 05:52 PM.
11-29-01, 05:19 PM
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replacing clutch hose
Bacon and 94 thanks again for your help. I cancelled my order for the stock hose and got the ss at rx7.com 38.00 along with some rear brake pads and looked at advance auto for some motul 600
but the fellow I asked had never heard of it. I am in VA do you know where I can get it?
but the fellow I asked had never heard of it. I am in VA do you know where I can get it?
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11-29-01, 07:09 PM
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Re: replacing clutch hose
Originally posted by Fritz Flynn
Bacon and 94 thanks again for your help. I cancelled my order for the stock hose and got the ss at rx7.com 38.00 along with some rear brake pads and looked at advance auto for some motul 600
but the fellow I asked had never heard of it. I am in VA do you know where I can get it?
Bacon and 94 thanks again for your help. I cancelled my order for the stock hose and got the ss at rx7.com 38.00 along with some rear brake pads and looked at advance auto for some motul 600
but the fellow I asked had never heard of it. I am in VA do you know where I can get it?
well you might wana try ate super blue fluid..its almost as good as moutl..like 50deg less dry, and pretty close wet.
but the best thing is its BLUE!, so when you swapin you fluid you can clearly see when youve fully bleed out the old fluid,
and then the next time you bleed swap to a gold fluid..motul 600 or ate makes a gold version of their fluid
http://bavarianautosport.com/
sell it, their real great service and have good prices
len
12-01-01, 09:12 PM
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Clutch Hose
Replaced clutch hose with the ss line but was not given any insulation to protect it from heat. Do you think because its ss it will be ok? Other than that the only problem was a some tight bolts.
Definately needed the line wrenchs.
Thanks Again!
Definately needed the line wrenchs.
Thanks Again!
05-01-03, 08:55 PM
#11
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Originally posted by Bacon
its a easy fix. all you need is a 10mm tubing wrench..( a reg box end wrench will strip it!!) get a ss line while your there www.2krd.com sells them along with rotorsorors racing, and pretty much everone else...
as far a s bleeding its an excuse to put in speed bleeders and bleed the barkes with a high performance fluid (ate superblue or motul 600)
put clear tubing over bleed screw
but pres down clutch a few times, then open the bleed screw..press to floor, close screw, release pedal, and repeat till fluis is buble free, and clean looking.
and make shure master cilinder is topped off
its a easy fix. all you need is a 10mm tubing wrench..( a reg box end wrench will strip it!!) get a ss line while your there www.2krd.com sells them along with rotorsorors racing, and pretty much everone else...
as far a s bleeding its an excuse to put in speed bleeders and bleed the barkes with a high performance fluid (ate superblue or motul 600)
put clear tubing over bleed screw
but pres down clutch a few times, then open the bleed screw..press to floor, close screw, release pedal, and repeat till fluis is buble free, and clean looking.
and make shure master cilinder is topped off
05-01-03, 09:09 PM
#13
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Originally posted by ISUposs
on the back side of the slave cylinder. near the starter.
on the back side of the slave cylinder. near the starter.
05-01-03, 09:12 PM
#14
on the driver's side of the transmission. the starter is near the bottom left of the transmission (as looking from the back of the car.) and the slave cylinder is right above the starter. the bleed screw is an 8mm i think sticking right out of the back side of the slave cylinder..
05-01-03, 09:29 PM
#15
ATE fluids (blue and gold -- same fluids besides color, good for alternating when you flush the whole system) and a pressure bleeder are available from http://www.motiveproducts.com/. The clutch can be a pain to bleed, especially with air in the lines. The pressure bleeder makes it much easier.
Valvoline SynPower is the best brake fluid that you can get from the local auto parts store and is pretty decent generally. It is dirt cheap at $5 for 32oz. But it isn't as good as the specialy fluids. I boiled some SynPower when I took a friend for some laps in my car with Hawk Blues that were almost down to the backing plates. It was scary! I think a better fluid would have avoided or at least delayed that drama. I like the ATE fluids since you can get it in two colors, it has good boiling points, it has very low moisture absorption peoperties, and it still isn't that expensive at $10 a liter.
-Max
Valvoline SynPower is the best brake fluid that you can get from the local auto parts store and is pretty decent generally. It is dirt cheap at $5 for 32oz. But it isn't as good as the specialy fluids. I boiled some SynPower when I took a friend for some laps in my car with Hawk Blues that were almost down to the backing plates. It was scary! I think a better fluid would have avoided or at least delayed that drama. I like the ATE fluids since you can get it in two colors, it has good boiling points, it has very low moisture absorption peoperties, and it still isn't that expensive at $10 a liter.
-Max
05-01-03, 09:36 PM
#16
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Bacon says 10 mm, so I guess I'll have both 8 and 10 mm socket wrenches handy?
BTW, I plan to use the one-man bleeder setup.
http://www.motiveproducts.com/
It works well for brakes. Theoretically this should work to bleed the slave cylinder too, since the slave cylinder gets its hydraulic fluild from the master cylinder fluid reservoir, which is pressurized via the Motive Products pump??
BTW, I plan to use the one-man bleeder setup.
http://www.motiveproducts.com/
It works well for brakes. Theoretically this should work to bleed the slave cylinder too, since the slave cylinder gets its hydraulic fluild from the master cylinder fluid reservoir, which is pressurized via the Motive Products pump??
05-01-03, 09:42 PM
#17
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Originally posted by maxcooper
ATE fluids (blue and gold -- same fluids besides color, good for alternating when you flush the whole system) and a pressure bleeder are available from http://www.motiveproducts.com/. The clutch can be a pain to bleed, especially with air in the lines. The pressure bleeder makes it much easier.
Valvoline SynPower is the best brake fluid that you can get from the local auto parts store and is pretty decent generally. It is dirt cheap at $5 for 32oz. But it isn't as good as the specialy fluids. I boiled some SynPower when I took a friend for some laps in my car with Hawk Blues that were almost down to the backing plates. It was scary! I think a better fluid would have avoided or at least delayed that drama. I like the ATE fluids since you can get it in two colors, it has good boiling points, it has very low moisture absorption peoperties, and it still isn't that expensive at $10 a liter.
-Max
ATE fluids (blue and gold -- same fluids besides color, good for alternating when you flush the whole system) and a pressure bleeder are available from http://www.motiveproducts.com/. The clutch can be a pain to bleed, especially with air in the lines. The pressure bleeder makes it much easier.
Valvoline SynPower is the best brake fluid that you can get from the local auto parts store and is pretty decent generally. It is dirt cheap at $5 for 32oz. But it isn't as good as the specialy fluids. I boiled some SynPower when I took a friend for some laps in my car with Hawk Blues that were almost down to the backing plates. It was scary! I think a better fluid would have avoided or at least delayed that drama. I like the ATE fluids since you can get it in two colors, it has good boiling points, it has very low moisture absorption peoperties, and it still isn't that expensive at $10 a liter.
-Max
I plan to use EBC Greenstuffs for road and light track use. Do you think the Valvoline SynPower fluild would be a good enough match for those pads, without having to spend $12.99/500-mL bottle for Motul RBF 600??
What wrench size is the slave cylinder bleed screw? 10 or 8 mm??
I presume you do the clutch line last? I think the order is furthest away from master cylinder, to closest, so RR, LR, RF, LF, Clutch Line??
Last edited by SleepR1; 05-01-03 at 09:48 PM.
05-01-03, 10:06 PM
#18
Originally posted by SleepR1
What wrench size is the slave cylinder bleed screw? 10 or 8 mm??
I presume you do the clutch line last? I think the order is furthest away from master cylinder, to closest, so RR, LR, RF, LF, Clutch Line??
What wrench size is the slave cylinder bleed screw? 10 or 8 mm??
I presume you do the clutch line last? I think the order is furthest away from master cylinder, to closest, so RR, LR, RF, LF, Clutch Line??
even though the reservoir is the same, the clutch line is a completely different system. so it doesn't matter what order it is blead in as long as the fluid level is maintained.
Last edited by ISUposs; 05-01-03 at 10:21 PM.
05-02-03, 10:03 AM
#20
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Originally posted by SleepR1
Where's the slave cylinder and starter?
Where's the slave cylinder and starter?
05-02-03, 10:12 AM
#22
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Originally posted by DamonB
Are you f'n serious??? The starter is on the bottom left corner of the tranny, the slave is just above it. The brakes share the reservoir with the clutch so if your brake fluid seems to be disappearing and you find no brake fluid leaks, check the clutch master and slave.
Are you f'n serious??? The starter is on the bottom left corner of the tranny, the slave is just above it. The brakes share the reservoir with the clutch so if your brake fluid seems to be disappearing and you find no brake fluid leaks, check the clutch master and slave.
05-02-03, 11:09 AM
#23
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Originally posted by SleepR1
Yep, Damon, hate to admit this...ISUposs took care of me though LOL
Yep, Damon, hate to admit this...ISUposs took care of me though LOL
That's how I feel
