did you do it yourself, or did you have someone else do it? what did it run ya if you paid someone else? thanks guys.

 

is there a diy guid thread/write-up to changing the clutch/flywheel that i've missed somewhere?

 

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/h...ellaneous.html

The main thing is the tools. Airtools will be your friend as well as Pilot Bearing Puller. If you have access to those, it's not a problem.

 

thanks mahjik... i never think to look at that page... which is really stupid of me.

 

I did mine with the help of a friend that is also a VW mechanic. Having a lift helped greatly. I wouldn't have wanted to do it without the lift. Not that bad with the right tools...just takes time getting everything out of the way.

 

unfortunately most of my friends are useless... so i have a terrible feeling that its off the a mechanic or... god help me... the dealer

 

Crispy has a nice write-up as well:

http://www.negative-camber.org/crispyrx7/clutch1.htm

Personally, unless you already have the majority of tools (and a helper, and a really good jack/stands or lift), I would just pay someone else to do it.

 

what's the point in the counter-weight on the flywheels?

 

It is really not that difficult, but it is time-consuming if you don't do it on a regular basis.

 

To "counterweight" the rotors It balances the rotating mass .

Edit: you might be wondering why you're ADDING a counterweight. The stock flywheel has the weight cast into the flywheel (if/when you remove it, you'll see it on the back). When you install a lightened flywheel, they usually don't have the counterweight cast, so you need to bolt one on.

 

I paid someone. I belive it was under $400.0, and doing work like that without a lift is back breaking .

If you have a lift, then I say go for it.

 

Talk to your local transmission shops. Just about any of them can do the job for you and will most likely be cheaper and better than your local dealer.

 

the dealer "quoted" me $455 to change out the flywheel and clutch (me supplying my choice of parts). i will start contacting local transmission shops today to get some ideas.

 

A mechanic in another forum just mentioned that in all the shops he worked at, it was common practice to NOT change the pilot bearing. As we know it's not safe to ASSume anything when entrusting others to work on your car. Good luck.

 

the dealer told me that i would need to supply a new pilot bearing or that they would need to order one. they seem to be very thorough honestly. as long as you supply the parts, they do good work in a reasonable time... but if they have to order parts it takes 2 weeks

 

If you get an ACT clutch kit, it will come with a pilot bearing. What you would want to order though is a new dirt/oil seal for the pilot bearing as the kits don't come with those as far as I know.

If you need to order stock parts, call:

Malloy Mazda
1-888-533-3400
Talk to Ray Crowe

Even if he doesn't have something in stock (which is rare) it usually takes less than 2 weeks.

 

i've heard that the ACT clutchs (the street/strip) had a decent increase in pressure and were a little less streetable than desired for a daily driven car. i had been looking at the Spec Stage 2 clutch kit, but i don't know if it comes with "all" the bearings needed. i will definitely be going through Malloy for any OEM needs though. will be calling rx7store on my lunch break to find out about this.

what does it mean when they mention a 59% pressure increase? is that just how much more the pressure plate puts on the clutch disk? or is there some direct correlation to pedal feel?

 

I'm using the ACT Street/Strip and it's fairly close to OEM. It is different, no doubt about it but it doesn't take but a 5-10 minute trip to get used to it.

What you don't really want for daily drving is a puck clutch. The Street/Strip is just fine.

 

I daily drive mine with ACT street/strip clutch and it's great... the excess pressure is hardly noticable once you get used to it.