Clunking in rear end/ subframe area after gear engagement
05-05-12, 08:06 PM
#1
Clunking in rear end/ subframe area after gear engagement
I took the seven for a drive for the first time in the past 7 years to try and get my cooling system to flow properly, although i noticed a clunking noise coming from my rear end when i hit gas going from a coast and after i switch gears. Like something is jolting. Differential mounts? I never had this issue before the car went down. Doesnt sound good sounds like my rear subframe is about to just fall out from underneath the car. Anyone else had this issue? Or what can i check to verify my problem. I have Delrin differential mounts i purchased off here but just bought them cause i wanted to eventually upgrade not because i thought there was a chance i needed them.
05-05-12, 08:36 PM
#3
Had them same problem with the read end clunk. Sounds like a pretty common issue, you can search for rear end clunk, pillow ***** and read about it. There are threads that talk about how to tell if you pillowballs are bad and what the replacement options are. In my opinion the are basically three choices.
1) buy new oem bushings and have them pressed in
2) buy aftermarket bushings and have them pressed in
3) buy used rear suspension parts and use those
Aftermarket bushings dont last as long as the OEM and they are stiffer so they may translate more vibrations but they cost about the same
1) buy new oem bushings and have them pressed in
2) buy aftermarket bushings and have them pressed in
3) buy used rear suspension parts and use those
Aftermarket bushings dont last as long as the OEM and they are stiffer so they may translate more vibrations but they cost about the same
05-05-12, 09:38 PM
#6
Yes it was just a visual inspection, I dont quite remember how you can check them but I know if you search you'll find it. From what I rememeber there are six pillow ***** total three on each side. Two in the lower control arm and one in the upper control arm. I think if you grab the tire at nine oclock and three oclock and try and wiggle it, it shouldnt move. The diff bushings can be checked by jacking up on the diff and it should only move about an inch.
Here is a bookmark I had on the subject
http://www.maxcooper.com/rx7/how-to/...lls/index.html
Here is a bookmark I had on the subject
http://www.maxcooper.com/rx7/how-to/...lls/index.html
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05-06-12, 01:20 AM
#8
Had them same problem with the read end clunk. Sounds like a pretty common issue, you can search for rear end clunk, pillow ***** and read about it. There are threads that talk about how to tell if you pillowballs are bad and what the replacement options are. In my opinion the are basically three choices.
1) buy new oem bushings and have them pressed in
2) buy aftermarket bushings and have them pressed in
3) buy used rear suspension parts and use those
Aftermarket bushings dont last as long as the OEM and they are stiffer so they may translate more vibrations but they cost about the same
1) buy new oem bushings and have them pressed in
2) buy aftermarket bushings and have them pressed in
3) buy used rear suspension parts and use those
Aftermarket bushings dont last as long as the OEM and they are stiffer so they may translate more vibrations but they cost about the same
Because these cars are so old and if they have anymore than 50k miles i can almost bet your pillow ***** are done. the ride is completely different when all of them are done. if you have the stock diff bushings they are filled with liquid that when they go bad leak out and need to be changed out.
05-07-12, 12:55 AM
#13
Rotary Enthusiast
I have heard you can jack up the car and try to " steer" the wheel to see if they are loose.
That did not work for me but when i replaced mine the old bushings were so loose i could spin them like a bearing by hand and when i twisted them they would move without effort. New bushings i could not spin or twist at all with my hand.
If you replace them definately use a press, the bolt and washer method definately works but if you value your time at more than $5 per hour just pay someone to press them in or aquire a new shop tool.
That did not work for me but when i replaced mine the old bushings were so loose i could spin them like a bearing by hand and when i twisted them they would move without effort. New bushings i could not spin or twist at all with my hand.
If you replace them definately use a press, the bolt and washer method definately works but if you value your time at more than $5 per hour just pay someone to press them in or aquire a new shop tool.
05-07-12, 02:46 AM
#14
20B/5 Speed/JC!
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Are you guys replacing your ball joints with OEM replacements, or aftermarket versions?
Edit: Nvm, looks like I answered my own question with the J-AUTO link. Wooo boy, they aren't cheap, well worth the money though, the clunking is terrible.
Edit: Nvm, looks like I answered my own question with the J-AUTO link. Wooo boy, they aren't cheap, well worth the money though, the clunking is terrible.
05-07-12, 06:44 AM
#15
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I dont think you can find these in "after market".
05-07-12, 10:03 AM
#16
I dont know i jacked the 7 up and yes it had pplay side to side on both wheels although i had mmy buddy move the wheels side to side while i looked at the pillow ***** in the I-Arms very little movement. Maybe that millimeter of movement or less is enough but damn thats a lot of noise for such little movement. I snapped a picture of on side as well because based on a visial inspection they honestly didnt look that bad. I will upload once i get to my computer. Also jacked up difdifferential and no play there up and down so i would imagine the differential bushings are good
05-07-12, 10:38 AM
#17
Op, I'm in the middle of doing my pillow ***** right now as I have the clunk. It was really easy. My only issue was that I found one of my upper control arms has a really bad gouge in the race and sleeve so I went ahead and bought from another member a new to me low mileage arm and am waiting for it to return. Looks to have been from pressing the previous bushing in.
I used a socket and a harbor freight 3 in one press kit to pop them out and reinstall without any problems. (except the one bad I found).
I used a socket and a harbor freight 3 in one press kit to pop them out and reinstall without any problems. (except the one bad I found).
05-07-12, 01:36 PM
#20
Well on front wheels you can move wheels side to aide to check inner and putter tie rods, and up and down to check wheel bearings. So being there is no tie rods in the rear, and up and down have no play, along with slight movement in I-arm inner bushings where they meet the spindle i guess that could be the cause of the clunking. All I'm saying is that the play is very little. And nothing really visable to say they are messed up. God nothing is easy i swear lol
