Gamezilla

I have a really loud clicking noise coming from where the injectors are. I cant remember if they've always been noisy or not, but since i've been battling this idle problem, I've come across this. My idle bounces from 1k to 1.5k. If I let the fans come on it settles it out at 1.2k. While its bouncing, that clicking noise (sounds almost like the spark arcing to the spark plug, but quieter) comes on and off. When the fans come on it just stays on and keeps clicking.

Also - I have some odd issues with my car. I recently replaced the whole ignition. Car has intake/dp/mp/exhaust and its converted to non-sequential twins. If I rev the car in neutral it goes to 8k rpms no problem. If I try and cruise in any gear without making boost, trying to get it to 8k, I get a huge hesitation at 4k. It bogs and tries to go faster but it just cant. At one time it got to about 4,300 then all of a sudden sucked me into my seat and hauled *** until 5k where it bogged again. I couldnt reproduce this. I still cant boost more than 5psi. Might this be a sticky injector? Clogged fuel filter? Could my fuel pump be on its way out?

No vacuum leaks. No boost leaks. MAP sensor and BOV are in working order. Checked all the connections and the wastegate rod. Everything is perfect.

Zyon13B

I used to have that clicking, did some modding( some of which included removing all solenoids), and now its not there. Hmmm...

What I'm saying is that it might be a solenoid clicking. Regardless, first you need to check your non-seq routing( could be possible you pluged the wrong connector to the waste gate control solenoid, they're identical), then fix your high idle with the air bleeder screw. Or maybe vise versa.

Gamezilla

I've checked everything. As I said, everything is perfect. I'm ordering some 1600cc injectors since I planned on doing it eventually and I'll see if that helps any. If not, Im just going to have to keep taking shots in the dark. I've takled to an insane amount of people about this and not a single one has offered a solid answer to my problems. Only guess. Well, I'm just gonna have to keep taking guess as to what I need to replace and hope I eventually replace the right thing.

Zyon13B

At least get the idle lower first. See if that does anything.

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

dude replaceing things to find a problem is 1 way to do it! Another would be to sit down and research the car a bit. I have seen you post like 15 threads about this same problem. If you don't want to research. ( I know. You already searched everything. That's what everybody says man )

Then take the car to Gotham racing and spend the money to have them figure it out. You are taking the MOST costly way to troubleshooting. Replacing parts until you get the correct one is a very "back-yardish" thing to be doing. Take the car to a pro or do some research and don't wait for someone on here to GIVE you the answer. That is NOT going to happen.

Why you ask? Because nobody( unless they are local) will be able to hear exactly what and where you are hearing the noise. The internet is good for brainstorming but for actualll fixing it is damn near impossible to help too much.

Actuall hands on is the way to learn and fix things...not typing on a keyboard asking someone else to do it. ( Not trying to be mean just save you money and time )

So again, call a shop nearby and schedule a appointment. Or just open the wallet more I guess. With the money you are spending on parts you could pay a shop 3 hours of labor and have the problem resolved

Sorry that i didn't tell you the answer in that like you wanted to. But that is my advice to you .. After that/this many posts regarding the same issue, i believe that it may be time to look elswhere for resolution. instead of this forum. ( i.e.- Gotham racing)

One other little note: Ordering 1600's is not as easy as putting them in and bam your done. Your PFC has to be reprogrammed for them to be seen if i recall correctly. Not to mention the modification of the fuel rail to accept them. Or buying a NEW fuel rail that they fit into. So your are again adding "more" to the cost of troubleshooting by replacement.