T & R racing (rx7s.com) is selling Chromoly axles for $550 bucks which is pretty cheap compared to others.
Has anyone bought these axles off them?
Has anyone bought anything from them?
Are these axles the same as the RP Performance or rx7store.net
Any info would help
Thanx

 

That sounds about right. The Driveshaft Shop sells their 300M axles with replacement boots and clamps for $550.

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/item135656.ctlg

 

Thanks I never thought about checking with (driveshaftshop)
and it is the same price as the T & R racing ones, and even better they come with a 1 year warranty.
I cant wait to install on FD. I already have KAAZ 1.5 LSD with 4.33 gears.

 

I have been wondering this, couldn’t you just have a machine shop make these axels, or a "driveshaft shop" you'd think that they could do it for cheaper. $550-$800 just seems like and *** load of money for something like that.

And Jimlab if I made a typo please correct me

 

It's probably not going to be cheaper if it's just a one-off. Just materials for these would soak up a pretty penny, not to mention the design work.

I won't be buying any soon, but in reality, 550 bones isn't bad.

 

There aren't many driveshaft shops that I know of that can turn axles and cut splines on premises.

 

Are chromoly axles really necessary? I thought PFS' 1100hp FD was running on stock axles, and never broke one (At least that's what I was told)

 

1,100 horsepower? That's the first I've heard of Peter having built a car that stout. Even his 3 rotor car didn't make anywhere near that much grunt.

Ari Yallon is probably the quickest stock IRS FD driver around and went through axles right and left until they upgraded to 300M, which is where the RP axles came from in the first place. He then started breaking other parts, including the inner tripod cup and stub shaft which inserts into the differential. Once they started cryo treating those, things started to hold together longer. Ari was nowhere near 1,100 horsepower, of course.

Do you need these for anything but drag racing? Not likely, but I went with 300M axles because I needed new center shafts for my Cobra IRS setup anyway, and you might as well use the strongest components you can get.

 

Jim, that's why I said "that's what I was told." One of the mechanics at a local RX7 shop is a personal friend of Peter of 11 years, and we were talking about various things, and somehow came to talking about axles, and I asked him about the chromoly axles, and he said the stockers are VERY strong to the point that Peter's 1100 FD made numerous successive passes in the 10s and the axles were def. a strong point of the car...they never broke. I think he also said the stock tranny took a hella lot of beating, but primarily because it's not hp that breaks 'em, it's lots of torque, and our cars don't make much torque...

 

1,100 horsepower would be a hell of a lot of torque. Assuming it made that 1,100 horsepower at the stock horsepower peak of 6,500 rpm, that's 889 lb-ft. of torque, and the torque peak would have been even higher. I think you were just talking with someone who liked the sound of his own voice and an appreciative audience...

 

You think he'd be running better than 10's also.

 

I had doubts about the story, given that I know our Russian friend broke his 3rd gen tranny at about 650 ft-lbs of torque. That, and I don't think it's even possible to make 1100 horses on a 2 rotor, even on C16...but that's just my guess.

So for my knowledge, once you start pushing serious hp (I'd guess above 500rwhp), you'd need not just upgraded/chromoly axles, but also to cryo treat the inner tripod cup and stub shaft (which insert into the differential). An upgraded tranny and clutch are obviously necessary. I heard the Tii diff when cryotreated also takes one hell of a beating...Any other weak points that need to be considered?

 

The cast iron differential housing...

 

who else did that?? besides dragon and i

 

I remember seeing Vosko post a pic of that... was my reaction lol. Vosko, I take it you're saying this is a very rare occurance? Does anyone even offer an upgraded diff housing?

 

Not that rare. Ari broke a few of them. They started welding bracing on to them to hold them together, and he said they ended up looking pretty ugly. The problem with welding cast iron is that you have to heat it prior to welding and let it cool at a controlled rate or you run the risk of having stress fractures form which weaken the part.

 

I purchased a set of Chromoly Axles from Ari a few years ago and never had any problems. Also, I think I paid around $800 at the time.

 

Nocab72 'sploded one on a 7krpm launch (@ 10 psi) courtesy of the racelogic traction control!

 

That's still roughly RP's price ($840), and I don't believe they include new boots or clamps with them, which is ridiculous.

 

You are correct, they never sent me new boots or clamps with the Chromoly Axles. I just purchased them at my Mazda Dealership.

 

Jim (or anyone else), are these the exact same as the ones T&R Racing sell? (RX7s.com)? Maybe I read it wrong, but the ones from Driveshaftshop say "close to our 4130 chrome moly (very good)" which kinda sounds like it isn't actually chrome moly? And you just siad they include the replacement boots and clamps too. T&R calls them Chromoly, 300M, say it's an EXACT replacement, but only give a 6 month warranty on 'em.

So in short, anyone who understands all the mumbo jumbo know if they're the same thing? Made of the same material?

 

Quote" The center bars are made from 300M material with our special heat treat and double temper, rolled splines for that extra strength, de-stressed and ready to install. ready to keep the axles under the car"

They ARE Chromoly.

The part you read about was talking about the stock Mazda axle 'cups.'
John

 

John, thanks for the clarification. So they're basically the same thing, but the Driveshaftshop gives you a longer warranty and throws in the boots and clamps too, eh? Sounds like a no-brainer...

 

You mean the English language?

The inner and outer c.v. on this car are made from a jis spec. close to our 4130 chrome moly (very good) so what we have done is make a set of center bars for the system to fix the only part that breaks."

Break the sentence into two parts, and you get...

1. The stock CV joints are very strong and don't need replacing.
2. The stock center shafts break, so they made replacements.

Yep.

I could say something really mean here...

 

Jim,