monstermills

iTrader: (2)

My cars engine is all original from what I know and I only have an aluminum ast added, 37k for miles on the car. First time plugging into my car for Check engine issues, I have read up some on the #11 air intake thermosensor. Im going to try and have that swapped out by the end of the week depending when it comes in. Originally my car had been running decent, its always had the sleight hesitation around 3k when running cold but I have always short shifted and waited till the car was warmed up and that clears out. I started getting more regular check engine lights towards the end of the day driving the car home from work when its warmer out so I took it to a shop with an odb1 setup to see what was coming up. I was told it was an egr valve issue #16 but he told me not to worry about that if the car was running decent. I left the shop and noticed the car was falling on itself when I tried going past 1/4 throttle and really around the 3k mark for rpm. I couldn't head back there to trouble shoot and the car runs fine as long as I don't mash the gas, it does climb in rpm as well just doesn't seem to kick the turbos in.

I checked the codes last night myself shorting out the diagnostics box and came up with a #11 air intake thermosensor and #51 fuel pump relay.

monstermills

iTrader: (2)

I'm an hour outside the city upstate NY, let me know of any shops that are recommended. Dale already told me to check out IR in NJ, that's a 4 hour haul for me.

Any help appreciated.

Clinton

Gen2n3

iTrader: (1)

Clinton,

Take Dale's advice and check out IRP. Reach out to them first then consider taking the car for a little drive. The 4hr drive may seem a lot but I believe it will be a worth while trip for the services they offer.

Have you looked into troubleshooting the CEL Code 51? Is your fuel pump relay good? Have you verified that your fuel system works? The FSM is an excellent source! Look in Section F, around Pg F-100.

Cheers,
George

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Thanks guys. Intake temp sensor is relatively easy to change. If its a stock sequential car with all emissions its a little more difficult but I can usually do it without taking off the upper intake manifold. Reach under with a stubby wrench and it can be removed. If it snot the sensor test continuity of the wiring back to the ecu. The sensors do go bad.

Fuel pump relay is actually the speed relay in the front relay box against the bumper. I've never had one go bad and throw a code. Test per the service manual. The other fuel pump relay is the green circuit relay by the driver's shock tower.

If the car is falling flat over 3k most likely the fuel pump isn't kicking into high speed.

If you want to bring me the car I'll set it straight. I can also offer to tow it.

monstermills

iTrader: (2)

Thanks a lot guys for the input, I pulled the negative terminal and cleared the codes from the car. I took it for a 20 min. drive and the car didn't seem to have any issues after that. Dale told me that they may have threw a code when they plugged into it at the shop. I pulled the stock intake apart yesterday for maintenance and once I get my new filter in ill be using the car more and see what turns up. I will definitely look you up IR Performance if I have anything major turn up.

Thanks again!

Clinton