Checking Fuel Gauge
06-25-06, 06:49 PM
#1
Checking Fuel Gauge
My fuel gauge will not quite show "F" when the tank is full. Is there a way to check the fuel gauge without the use of the SST described in the FSM on page C1-17? Both the dash cluster and fuel pump are out of the car. TIA.
06-25-06, 09:33 PM
#4
Derwin
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Try sometimes to continue pumping. My car was the same way, it would never be on the line. Then I continued pumping and you could feel air beeing squeezed out of the gas tank.
Maybe 0.5 of a litre went in but then I waited and another 2 litres went in and it was past the full line.
Maybe who knows sometimes these things are too obvious,
Alex
Maybe 0.5 of a litre went in but then I waited and another 2 litres went in and it was past the full line.
Maybe who knows sometimes these things are too obvious,
Alex
06-26-06, 06:27 PM
#6
This is going from memory, so bear with me.
Completely remove the fuel pump assembly and look at the sending unit. (the little pointer that rubs against a rheostat)
First, make sure it's clean. I think I used some solvent and a towel, if that doesn't work, use some steel wool and of course clean any "fibers" when you are done. Also, gently clean the contact with some fine sand paper. Make sure the two surfaces (the pointer and the rheostat) make solid contact. If they don't, bend the pointer so they do.
There is a screw or two that you can loosen and the little rheostat area will move. If your tank doesn't read full, you need to move it so more coils towards the top touch the pointer. Like I said, it's very touchy, so a little move goes a long way.
Next, test it. Disconnect one of the leads to the fuel pump and wrap it in electrical tape. Don't want your pump running dry while you are testing. Plug the harness into the fuel pump assembly. Move the float all the way to the top of it's range and turn the key to the on position. Watch the fuel gauge. It should be reading full. Next move the sending unit to the lowest position, and it should read empty. If the range isn't reading correctly, re-adjust the rheostat and repeat the test procedure. Once you are happy with the range, reassemble everything and go for a drive.
Completely remove the fuel pump assembly and look at the sending unit. (the little pointer that rubs against a rheostat)
First, make sure it's clean. I think I used some solvent and a towel, if that doesn't work, use some steel wool and of course clean any "fibers" when you are done. Also, gently clean the contact with some fine sand paper. Make sure the two surfaces (the pointer and the rheostat) make solid contact. If they don't, bend the pointer so they do.
There is a screw or two that you can loosen and the little rheostat area will move. If your tank doesn't read full, you need to move it so more coils towards the top touch the pointer. Like I said, it's very touchy, so a little move goes a long way.
Next, test it. Disconnect one of the leads to the fuel pump and wrap it in electrical tape. Don't want your pump running dry while you are testing. Plug the harness into the fuel pump assembly. Move the float all the way to the top of it's range and turn the key to the on position. Watch the fuel gauge. It should be reading full. Next move the sending unit to the lowest position, and it should read empty. If the range isn't reading correctly, re-adjust the rheostat and repeat the test procedure. Once you are happy with the range, reassemble everything and go for a drive.
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