When did I laugh? Fact is, you CAN harm your car if you try to pull engine codes wrong. Go start jumpering pins at random and see if anything happens. I'm not here to hold anybody's hand and make sure they feel good about troubleshooting. The correct procedure for diagnosis was given, it wasn't followed...enter me.


I'd say it's pretty obvious that you do

 

Laugh, be condenscending, speak ill, put down, etc...all have the same effect, and all stem from the same mindset.

You can look at it whatever way you choose. I spend time justifying my position in hopes that you show merit in yours as well. If there is, I have no prob correcting myself. If there isn't, well...moving on...

 

<pretending Hyperite isn't flexing his muscles just to prove and defend an idea that wasn't even his to begin with, and can't seem to let it go>

Gadd -

I'll be sure to clean the connector before doing anything. After that, i'll reset the ECU and give it a shot. If the light comes on again, then I'll have to replace the dang thing. I'll search the forum on cost/procedure for doing so unless someone can

</pretend>

Hyperite - Give it a rest huh? Proper procedure WAS given and WAS followed. Furthermore, the reason I was asking for a more information instead of just going to pull the codes is because I work out of town and I hoped to find someone w/ similar issues who could shed a little light on the matter for me, so I didnt spend the next 4 days reading the forum worrying about what "could" be wrong.

Like so many of us on this forum, I care about my car a great deal and just wanted opinions as quickly as possible.

Thanks for your opinion on what should be done. I am still not sure why you are defending "pull the codes" like it was some giant pearl of wisdom. It seems the obvious thing to do. In fact, POS7 was the first to suggest pulling the codes. As it turns out, you are defending someone else's idea. Kind of defensive huh?

I pulled the codes, now lay off. Its really not this big of a deal.

 

The TPS/ connector isn't known for "failing". I wouldn't actually replace it unless you have some sort of reasonable assurance that there is something mechanically wrong with it.

Ugh, I just noticed that Gadd said the exact same thing in an earlier post

I dont think there are really any pitfalls to this procedure. However,
it's possible to adjust the tps badly enough that the car wont run at all. Dont ask me how I know this. It may take a while to get all the readings in the correct range. BTW I use the "safety pin method" Worked pretty well too.

 

I guess I don't understand this (and you don't need to try to explain it). You didn't want to spend 4 days worrying about what "could" be wrong, but you wanted someone with similar issues to shed some light and tell you what "could" be wrong. This is too much for my feeble mind to comprehend.



It does seem obvious, hence my flaborgastory that you weren't doing it. It wasn't anybody's idea, or at best it was Mazda's idea to include a flashing light as a tool.

I wouldn't have posted a second time in the thread had I not been addressed.

 

Yep! that's exactly what I was about to say. I bet you that is the problem. Mine did the very same thing. I did check the code and it was the thermo sensor. It's in the back of the water neck. Mine ended up not even being the sensor itself, but a bad connection.

 

The codes were 12 & 18. ECU says TPS issue.

If voltages can't make the Check Engine light come on, then it has to be a bad unit no?

I'll start w/ the voltages & see if that takes care of it for me. If not, back to square 1.

 

I think your referring to the coolant thermosensor. The "INTAKE AIR THERMOSENSOR" is on the underside of the UIM.

 

i havent read through the thread, but...i had the same problem today after i got my BNR turbos on. the wires that come from the big plug on the harness right behind the alternator and run by the crank angle sensor and over to the OMP (if im not mistaken) were getting hit by a pulley. i pushed the lines back and it solved the problem...