Ok my check engine light stays off normally but if I hit 5k rpm or higher, it turns on. I used a known method of using a jumper wire to jump the terminal "10, and grd" in the diagnosis box under the hood.
I looked at the check engine light and it flashed 2 long times, and this is the ONLY code stored in the ECU. I looked up the code, and according to what I found , it means "code 20 : Metering Oil Pump Position Sensor
open or short circuit."
Does this mean the oil pump position sensor needs to be replaced, or is it the oil pump that needs replacing? please help..... thanks

 

here is the guide I used to determine the check engine light: please feel free to let me know if I diagnosed the problem incorrectly, because I dont know everything...... http://www.rx7city.com/ecucodes.htm

 

From what I understand, the sensor is built into the oil metering pump. Try downloading a copy of the factory workshop manual, there should be troubleshooting guides to accompany each check engine code.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-archives-73/tech-manual-directory-614824/

-s-

 

Although there are separate codes for each, from what I could tell the sensor, pump and stepping motor on the MOP/OMP assembly are not designed to be separated. If one goes bad, you replace all three. The wiring to the MOP/OMP connects just under the intake elbow and is pretty easy to get to. There you can check for proper voltage, resistance etc.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/changing-oil-metering-pump-omp-while-car-my-how-675341/

 

The "oil pump" is mechanical on these cars and inside the front cover. It is driven off the e-shaft (which is why the pressure increases as your rpms do). There is nothing on the actual oil pump for the ECU to know about. The "oil pump stepping motor" is where the sensors are and that is external to the motor. If you have codes referring to "oil pump", its with the stepping motor.

 

so are you saying that, if im getting a code like this , its best to replace the oil pump and the sensor together?

 

and also, why would the check engine light only come on when I get to high rpm? (which I dont bring it to high rpm anymore until i get this fixed)

 

here is a video of the check engine light flashing 2 long times. I just want to make SURE im doing this correctly, and my diagnosis is correct click here to watch: http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoID=21352632

 

i believe that is a single long flash

 

Does the CEL ever go off again?

 

yes if I turn the car on, the CEL turns "off" and stays off, UNLESS while driving I bring the rpms above 4k example 5k or 6k rpm. I thought it looked like 1 single flash, BUT according to the manual there is no such thing as a single flash code?So I figured it has to be 2 long flashes. The CEL codes start at 2 flashes but correct me if im wrong

 

here is another guide I used in my diagnosis. Now I know the CEL could mean " 1 long flash" which would direct me to my problem area, but it could also mean " 2 long flashes". So at fd3s.net I read that long flashes =10......and short flashes =1 SO, IF I had 1 long flash it would mean code 10, whcih if you look at it , there is no such code, BUT however, if it mean 2 long flashes, then it means code 20 OMP sensor. if your confused please check out this website it will clerify.... http://www.fd3s.net/engine_codes.html