ARGH. just when I had this thing running tip top...bumping for reference when I get this car home.

 

I know this is an old thread but wanted to add something here after replacing my alternator twice. My problem was the oil pressure, coolant and charge light would come on with the key to the ON position and engine off. After starting the car all those lights went off and drove normal. I too would hear the clicking and determined it was the ACV since I have no air pump. After the second alt and checking all grounds power wires etc. I started wiggling the 2 wire connection on the alt and when I wiggled that the ACV started clicking. I determined that even though the connector was seated it wasn’t making a connection. I rigged up a new connection & problem solved.

 

I have to bump this thread for more ideas from anyone who might have been through this. Here is my issue and what ive done.
Once my fd gets warm these lights come on. I replaced the battery and alternator even though the alternator was checked to be fine. It didnt fix it obviously or I wouldnt be here. So I checked all my wiring using the troubleshooting guide of the manual. No issues at all. I decided it could have still been a wiring issue so i ran new wires to bypass the harness in case there was a knick that was causing problems intermittently. No dice. I sanded the battery connectors in case I wasnt getting good contact, also sanded the contacts on the fuse box where it connects to the battery. I replaced fuses even though none were blown. I had my new alternator checked as well and it passed. I am not having any charging issues or issues with starting or running. Its just the damn lights. AND when i turn on the high beems they all go off. I looked in the manual and cant see how the high beams would be connected in anyway. But i am using a 93 american manual, and I drive a 94 jdm. CPU2 processes the lights if I recall without the diagram in front of me. Could that be causing a short or bad caps or something causing this? Is there something that happens around ~75 celsius that starts drawing amps or could be causing a short?

 

If you put a multi meter on the battery at idle what voltage are you seeing?

Dale

 

Dale, the battery is reading 12.6 with a DMM. And the PFC is reading 14.1 ish at idle. I also have an idle problem and just noticed my clutch switch isnt working. Right now i am thinking my clutch switch is causing idle bounce leading to the dash lights maybe? Is that a possible leap?

 

- Is that measured at the battery posts with the engine running at idle, or off? If it's the latter, it looks good, but if that was what you're getting at idle, either your alternator isn't charging or there's a wiring issue preventing charge current from getting to the battery.

- That PFC reading tells us that the alternator is working, and correct voltage is getting to at least the ECU portion of the power distribution bus. No idea on the clutch switch question, would need to review the wiring diagrams to figure out how that might relate.

 

Yeah bad clutch switch will do all sorts of idle weirdness especially on a stock ECU.

As stated if you are getting 12.6v at the battery with the engine running there's something way wrong. You should be in the 14v range.

Dale

 

Pete/Dale, thanks you were right sorry that was engine off. I took it for a drive today and measured it a few times at different times at the battery terminals with my multimeter. It was in the 14v everytime. Even after the lights came on. Also, i checked my clutch switch and it was bad so i replaced the spring and its working now but that didnt have an effect.

I had already ran the load and sense lines around the harness but i didnt run the B+. Sould i try running a B+ straight to the battery just to see if that fixes it? Again the lights dont seem to come on for a while. Basically once it fully warms. Which makes me think its something shorting at higher temp or something happening at higher temp.

Finally so everyone has the full picture of my car at the moment. I am also having idle bounce from about a 1000 to 1500 once it warms fully.

I dont know if those are related or if I should troubleshoot which one first.

 

I fixed the idle bounce issue and it didnt fix the alternator lights. My alternator continues to be charging fine with just the lights on constantly now. Checked the battery today and it was 12.73 off and 14.1 at idle. Tomorrow im going to check all the voltages with a DMM again (last time they were fine according to the manual) coming out of the alternator but if anyone has ideas before then let me know. I will post them tomorrow. Any ideas greatly appreciated.

 

Alright guys, thanks for all the crucial feedback but I have finally fixed the issue. It turned out to be that I had a mangled connector in the dash. The pin for the alternator lights was contacting the adjacent pin during any bump, or hard door closure, or even when the car warmed up enough, due to no plastic in between the pins any more. Pretty interesting issue I think. And a lot different than most of us would suspect. I think it was from the previous owner maybe adding a boost controller or something. Not sure. In any case. Problem solved and now I know. Thanks guys!

 

WOW good job finding that! Goofed up wiring from a previous owner is always a PAIN to find.

Dale