My car has a miss to it when idling and am going to do a basic tune up. This is my first rotary and really don't know much about them, but that's why you guys are here. Anyways, what kind of plugs should I use on my FD? What kind of procedure is involved in changing my plugs? Thanx for your help!

 

Stock plugs are fine, NGK 7's and 9's. I don't know the exact part number, but search for it, you should find it.

Changing them is relatively simple, they're just hard to get to. Some people say it's easier from under the car, some say it's easier from above. Either way it's tough to screw up changing spark plugs.

 

Yea, I ran a search and got some info, but the only thing really puzzling me is how do you know which ones are the 7's, and which ones are the 9's? What do the 7 and 9 stand for?

 

make sure the plugs are platinum

 

just ask for trailing and leading plugs
trailing goes on top of the rotor housing
leading goes on botton of rotor housing

 

the 7 and 9 means the heat range. 9 being a colder plug. if your boosting high a colder plug is better for you.
do one plug at a time, so you dont cross wires. i thought it was easier from the bottom. go to the ngk website @ ngksparkplugs.com

good luck
brandon

 

A lot of us run all 9's with no issues. I do in Texas. Silverbullet I believe has a good write up about plugs on his web site. Just search and there are some good threads on this topic.

 

Also the rotor housing has a T for trailing and L for leading on next to each plug hole.

 

Just wanted to make a sidenote here.... you will probably have to change your plugs much more often than your used to... I change mine about every other oil change, if I dont the car starts to misfire like hell

 

ok thanx for the info you guys are awesome. I bought the NGK's and am going to change them in about 2 mins.

 

NGK #BUR9EQ

I personally don't bother with platinums - they are expensive and just as easy to foul in practice. Hell, the copper plugs are expensive enough!

Also, as a little trick to help remember which is which, think "leading = lower, trailing = top". Also, as mentioned, they are labeled on the housing.

And yes, it is MUCH easier to change the plugs from the bottom than from the top. Try it once and you'll see...

 

Don't you have to remove the bellypan to remove it through the bottom, though?

 

Nope.

 

Hrm, I guess I'll do it that way, then.

 

Yes, only do one at a time. It's one thing to mix up the plugs themselves (happened to the first time I had them changed-never trust a non-rotary shop), but to cross the wires is a recipe for a new engine. Good luck though!

 

Another good tip here is that you should always use anti-seize lubricant on the threads since you're screwing into the housings... Do not overtighten them either! I torque mine to 14 ft*lbs which really isn't that much force on a long wrench.

Brian