so i rebuilt my motor about two years ago with fresh housings, street ported, and balanced. I used all oem components except ra water seals. i've had about 3000 miles put on the motor and just got my car tuned for the sequential bnrs. The tune i had, from a pretty reputable shop, only had the boost set to 12psi which i usually ran the lows setting 10psi for street driving. The car itself still pulls really well and i put about 300 miles on the new tune. On a cold start the car sounds to be making a clicking noise but after a minute of heating up the clicking disappears. The idle isn't that smooth on start up but it smoothens out after being fully heated up. It also stalls when the needle drops when coming to a stop usually when its not fully heated. I had a compression test done and got 8.3 8.1 8.2 kg/cm^2 ~115 psi+ on the rear and 8.0 6.4 5.5 kg/cm^2 in the front. The two low numbers come out to 91psi and 78 psi. I havent been running premix cause i still had the omp but now i've been adding some for protection. i was told that the apex seal is getting stuck and it is possible to get it unstuck from some driving w/ no boost. whats the best route i should take rebuild, drive it (slowly), or something else?

 

We have never had any luck getting stuck apex seals or side seals to free up while still in the engine. Another possibility is that you have a cracked apex seal, which could let loose and destroy a rotor, housing and your new turbos. From the reading on the rear, there is currently not any damage to the housing in the compression area since there is still one high reading.

It is your call, you could drive it and see what happens are pull it and rebuild it. You could also try dumping Seafoam or B-12 Chemtool in the rear rotor housing to see if that will "unstick" the seal, there are reports of this working for some people.