car wont start after winter project
#1
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car wont start after winter project
Hi guys, I finally got my car done this past weekend it has been been down since before christmas as a winter project. here is a list of what i have done to it while it was down.
all vacuum hoses replaced(new)
all cooling hoses replaced(new)
all fuel lines(new)
leading coil replaced(new)
fpd(new)
pressure regulator solenoid(used)
turbo control(used)
secondary fuel rail(used)
spark plugs(new)
The only thing that went wrong while i did all this work was a broken bolt with a ground connector as shown in picture but i just moved the connector to the other bolt that seems to be same ground point. After replacing fuel lines and fpd i tested fuel system for leaks and it checked out good no fuel smell or leaks. finished putting the car together and now it cranks but will not start. before all this work was started car started every time and idled good. battery was low and had it tested and fully charged. after several attempts with no success i checked all spark plugs for flooding and they are all dry. any suggestions on what could be happening or what to try and get it started?? could it be low compression? car had been was down for at least 3 to 4 months.
thanks,
all vacuum hoses replaced(new)
all cooling hoses replaced(new)
all fuel lines(new)
leading coil replaced(new)
fpd(new)
pressure regulator solenoid(used)
turbo control(used)
secondary fuel rail(used)
spark plugs(new)
The only thing that went wrong while i did all this work was a broken bolt with a ground connector as shown in picture but i just moved the connector to the other bolt that seems to be same ground point. After replacing fuel lines and fpd i tested fuel system for leaks and it checked out good no fuel smell or leaks. finished putting the car together and now it cranks but will not start. before all this work was started car started every time and idled good. battery was low and had it tested and fully charged. after several attempts with no success i checked all spark plugs for flooding and they are all dry. any suggestions on what could be happening or what to try and get it started?? could it be low compression? car had been was down for at least 3 to 4 months.
thanks,
#2
In the burnout box...
iTrader: (32)
If you're cranking the engine and its not firing the spark plugs should be wet. Seems like you have a fuel problem. Have you checked the obvious things? Fuel pressure, spark, made sure of a good connection on the fuel injectors. As I stated I'm leaning more toward a fueling issue...
#3
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when i took the spark plugs out (all 4) they were dry. the injectors have been cleaned at witchunter performance could they be stuck closed??. when i installed the fuel lines i did a fuel prime procedure and heard fuel flowing. my secondary fuel rail broke when i tried to take it off and replaced it with one i got from a forum member. fpd is new.
#4
In the burnout box...
iTrader: (32)
They could be stuck. Though I highly doubt it. You can check this by using a battery to apply voltage to each. You simply listen for a click noise. Are the injectors all factory (550's and 850's)? I find with after-market injectors the american clips don't always like to clip all the way onto the injector. I had this same problem on my car that kept fuel from entering my front rotor housing...
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i took plenty of pictures and notes so ill have to double check the fuel lines again. the only thing that was not new was a replacent secondary fuel rail which i got used from a member otherwise i got the fuel kit and new FPD. the fuel lines are return close to firewall
vent line
feed line in that order right.
i ll have to get a fuel pressure gauge and check fuel pressure. havent done a spark test that will be next too.
vent line
feed line in that order right.
i ll have to get a fuel pressure gauge and check fuel pressure. havent done a spark test that will be next too.
#7
wannaspeed.com
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Did you check other obvious things like blown fuses? Sounds like a fuel problem, if you weren't getting spark the car would probably be drenched with fuel and maybe even flooded. If you take the elbow off at the throttle body and put a balled up rag with gasoline pushed against the butterflies the fumes off the rag should be enough to start the car. Which will confirm it being a fuel issue.
**be careful with the above i have heard of ppl having a backfire through the manifold and catch the rag or their eyebrows on fire. though it was with carb engines. I've never had a problem. This is your disclaimer
Im leaning towards the fuel lines being reversed..
**be careful with the above i have heard of ppl having a backfire through the manifold and catch the rag or their eyebrows on fire. though it was with carb engines. I've never had a problem. This is your disclaimer
Im leaning towards the fuel lines being reversed..
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#8
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wouldnt spraying a little bit of starting fuel be a little bit safer id like to keep my eyebrows an hair intact. ill post some pictures of the labeled fuel lines (feed and return).
#11
Sua Sponte
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I would say you have a fuel issue if the spark plugs are dry. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/how-troubleshoot-your-fuel-system-pictures-videos-733468/ Here is a nice write up about how to troubleshoot your fuel system. Also, do you have a Power FC? I have had one before that I purchased off a forum member that ended up having a burned out injector driver which was causing the car not to start.
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so today i got a chance to look at the fuel system. i primed the fuel system and can hear the fuel pump when i turn the key. i waiting on my fuel pressue gauge but i can hear the fuel flowing by the feed and return lines so fuel is flowing. i tested each fuel injector by applying 12 and hearing for the clicking sound(opening). both secondary injectors checked out good. on the primary rail one is stuck or wont open when volatge applied the other one checked out good. so will one injector not opening keep the other three from injecting fuel into the chamber therefore causing the dry plugs or should there be still fuel present. if so then that would be the culprid if not is there anything else to check? ill be tapping the injector and try to get it to open.
thanks!
thanks!
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I was able to fix my "no start problem" the other day it turned out to be a stuck primary injector and possibly a defective pressure regulator solenoid. I checked resistance across all injectors and checked voltages at all four injector connectors for 12V and they checked out good. One primary injector was in fact stuck closed and i was able to get it to open after ligthly tapping on top of it. I installed a fuel pressure gauge in line and the fuel pressure checked out good and heald steady at about 38psi. I put everything back together and the car fired right up on the first try and idled good. last night i was able to take it for a spin around the block and when i shift into second or third gear it makes a short flute like whistling sound then quickly goes away. The sound seems to come from the passenger side under the hood and is not present when idling. Would a vacuum leak be constant or could it be a a vaccum line that became disconnected? didnt get a chance to look into it since it was getting dark. Car idles good and no check engine light comes on.
thanks!
thanks!
#16
Rotary Freak
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Yep, when I had my injectors cleaned/serviced by WitchHunter, and another set by RC Engineering, the solvent used caused them to stick close until it goes through a cycle of gasoline.
I was able to repeatedly tap 12VDC to the injectors to cause them to free-up and no problems after that.
:-) neil
I was able to repeatedly tap 12VDC to the injectors to cause them to free-up and no problems after that.
:-) neil
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update! i solved the whistle sound problem under the hood last night. it turned out to be the Y-pipe nuts that were loose after i put everything back together simple fix so im glad!
thanks for all the helpful info on here guys!
thanks for all the helpful info on here guys!
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