Car won't Start after new fuel system install
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Car won't Start after new fuel system install
Hi Guys, hopefully you guys can help me out. My car did start up fine a few weeks ago when the weather was nicer, but now it won't start after i did the fuel system upgrade.
I swap my old fuel system out and went with the new ID injectors, new pumps and lines. Well here's what i found while doing the swap.
1 - 1 of my resister was not connected at the solder point on the primary, so i figure it wasn't getting power and the injector was properly not even working.
2 - The trailing spark plugs are all install on the left side and the Leading plugs are on the right side but all the wires are connected correctly.
These are the two things i found when doing the swaps but It still starts before i did the swap but now it won't start at all after i did the swap. It seems to just flooded out everytime. I've check for sparks and there is spark, I see 40psi of fuel pressure on the gauge but it just won't start. Also now the gauge cluster light went out along with the tail light and no fuse is blown, would this cause it not to start?
I swap my old fuel system out and went with the new ID injectors, new pumps and lines. Well here's what i found while doing the swap.
1 - 1 of my resister was not connected at the solder point on the primary, so i figure it wasn't getting power and the injector was properly not even working.
2 - The trailing spark plugs are all install on the left side and the Leading plugs are on the right side but all the wires are connected correctly.
These are the two things i found when doing the swaps but It still starts before i did the swap but now it won't start at all after i did the swap. It seems to just flooded out everytime. I've check for sparks and there is spark, I see 40psi of fuel pressure on the gauge but it just won't start. Also now the gauge cluster light went out along with the tail light and no fuse is blown, would this cause it not to start?
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I didn't use any resistors for the ID injectors. But i found the resistor disconnected (broke off from the solder joint) from the clip on the old injector, i didn't know for how long but that's what i found when taking it apart and i was surprise that the car was able to start before taking it apart.
#7
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So you just swap out your whole fuel system and expect it will start the same as before? Plus now you have an electrical problem that took out your gauges and tail lights... Your fuel system is very tightly integrated with the electical system you know.
Fix the things you know are wrong first, otherwise you will waste a lot of time.
Fix the things you know are wrong first, otherwise you will waste a lot of time.
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Sorry, let me make it a little bit more clearer. The car starts fine about 3 weeks ago before i decided to do my fuel system upgrade. When taking the old fuel system out I noticed that the resistor on one of the primary is not connected at all, it broke off completely and i don't know when it happened. So I installed the new system with the ID injectors and new connectors without the resistors because we don't need them to run the new IDs. So now it won't start at all, It has sparks and fuel and the fuel gauge said 40psi but it just won't start. And yes i also found out that my cluster lights and tail lights went out and it wasn't a blown fuse. I hope it makes it a little clearer now.
#9
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Yes, I understood that. I am saying you should fix the dash and tail light problem before first because there is a very good chance that it will cure your starting issues. Dash and tail lights don't just go out for no reason, they went out likely because you disturbed something when doing the fuel system and who knows what all your wiring is doing now.
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You will need to "calibrate" your fuel system to the new injector sizes. in the powerFC you change the injector size and put the different percentage in. This will "scale" the map to the new injectors (settings 5 tab on powerFC).
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it depends on what your current settings are.
old 850cc 1600cc
new 1000cc 2000cc
If your map is scaled already to the old injectors they would read
Injectors
front primary 65.0%
Rear primary 65.0%
Q Primary 850CC
Q secondary 1600CC
The new would be
Injectors
Front primary 55.0%
Rear Primary 55.0%
Q Primary 1000CC
Q secondary 2000CC
If your current map reads as
Injectors
front primary 0%
Rear primary 0%
Q Primary 850CC
Q secondary 1600CC
The new would be
Injectors
Front primary 85.0%
Rear Primary 85.0%
Q Primary 1000CC
Q secondary 2000CC
This is scaled to the 850CC injectors with a 0% scaling initially.
I am assuming this is with the powerFC. if you know how to tune (I doubt you do based off this thread), running 1000CC primary injectors on the powerFC will require negative injector lag in order to lean out the idle into the 11-12 AFR range and leaner.
This will require the entire map to again be scaled.
I would add the nagative lag so the idle is good and strong, drive around logging with an AFR gauge, and adjust everything but the idle area up/down to where it needs to be.
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Thank you all, a buddy of mine does have a datalogit and will be helping me with setting up the new injectors.
Ihor If you could send me the base map it would be great, i hope that it would run so i can get it up there for you to check it out and possibly tune it.
I'm also trying to work out the electrical here. Does any one know if I'm supposed to have power going to the fuses under the dash when the keys is in the ON position? I've checked with my multimeter and i'm not getting any power to any of the fuses in the fuse box when the key is on the ON position.
Ihor If you could send me the base map it would be great, i hope that it would run so i can get it up there for you to check it out and possibly tune it.
I'm also trying to work out the electrical here. Does any one know if I'm supposed to have power going to the fuses under the dash when the keys is in the ON position? I've checked with my multimeter and i'm not getting any power to any of the fuses in the fuse box when the key is on the ON position.
#17
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This does require a datalogit to and FC edit software to perform.
it depends on what your current settings are.
old 850cc 1600cc
new 1000cc 2000cc
If your map is scaled already to the old injectors they would read
Injectors
front primary 65.0%
Rear primary 65.0%
Q Primary 850CC
Q secondary 1600CC
The new would be
Injectors
Front primary 55.0%
Rear Primary 55.0%
Q Primary 1000CC
Q secondary 2000CC
If your current map reads as
Injectors
front primary 0%
Rear primary 0%
Q Primary 850CC
Q secondary 1600CC
The new would be
Injectors
Front primary 85.0%
Rear Primary 85.0%
Q Primary 1000CC
Q secondary 2000CC
This is scaled to the 850CC injectors with a 0% scaling initially.
I am assuming this is with the powerFC. if you know how to tune (I doubt you do based off this thread), running 1000CC primary injectors on the powerFC will require negative injector lag in order to lean out the idle into the 11-12 AFR range and leaner.
This will require the entire map to again be scaled.
I would add the nagative lag so the idle is good and strong, drive around logging with an AFR gauge, and adjust everything but the idle area up/down to where it needs to be.
it depends on what your current settings are.
old 850cc 1600cc
new 1000cc 2000cc
If your map is scaled already to the old injectors they would read
Injectors
front primary 65.0%
Rear primary 65.0%
Q Primary 850CC
Q secondary 1600CC
The new would be
Injectors
Front primary 55.0%
Rear Primary 55.0%
Q Primary 1000CC
Q secondary 2000CC
If your current map reads as
Injectors
front primary 0%
Rear primary 0%
Q Primary 850CC
Q secondary 1600CC
The new would be
Injectors
Front primary 85.0%
Rear Primary 85.0%
Q Primary 1000CC
Q secondary 2000CC
This is scaled to the 850CC injectors with a 0% scaling initially.
I am assuming this is with the powerFC. if you know how to tune (I doubt you do based off this thread), running 1000CC primary injectors on the powerFC will require negative injector lag in order to lean out the idle into the 11-12 AFR range and leaner.
This will require the entire map to again be scaled.
I would add the nagative lag so the idle is good and strong, drive around logging with an AFR gauge, and adjust everything but the idle area up/down to where it needs to be.
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