Car stalled on the freeway last night
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: The People's Republic of California
Car stalled on the freeway last night
Last night I was driving down the freeway doing about 75 (cruising). I saw my RPM drop down, and my car stalled while still in motion. I tried to restart the car, and the engine wouldn't turn over, it just sat there cranking.
I drive a 93 RX7, 94k miles on it, 40k on the motor. Greddy intercooler and intake, hks downpipe and rb dual tip exhaust.
I'm kind of at a loss as to what it could be. I've checked all around for vac leaks, but with no luck. When I try and crank it, I can smell fuel faintly, which leads me to believe my injectors are fine, the last thing I can think of to check would be the spark plugs. Any ideas?
I drive a 93 RX7, 94k miles on it, 40k on the motor. Greddy intercooler and intake, hks downpipe and rb dual tip exhaust.
I'm kind of at a loss as to what it could be. I've checked all around for vac leaks, but with no luck. When I try and crank it, I can smell fuel faintly, which leads me to believe my injectors are fine, the last thing I can think of to check would be the spark plugs. Any ideas?
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: The People's Republic of California
I haven't checked the ignition yet. Its about time for an oil change anyways, which I was going to do in a little bit, but I don't think that would cause it to shut down completely, would it?
The alternator belt is fairly taut, and is about 2 months old. Althought for being 2 months old, it shred a little bit on the edges. I was guessing one of the pulleys just isn't aligned properly.
The alternator belt is fairly taut, and is about 2 months old. Althought for being 2 months old, it shred a little bit on the edges. I was guessing one of the pulleys just isn't aligned properly.
i had a similar problem as you and it turned out to be one of the wires in the wiring harness located in the driver side wheel well. one of the wires plastic cover burnt off making the wire ground itself out. might not be your problem but a possiblity. good luck.
Last edited by scratchjunkie; Mar 23, 2006 at 07:02 PM.
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From: Home of the 305 Boyz(miami)
Originally Posted by ALNY93R1
The same thing happened to a friend of mine and hate to say it , but it was his enigine. Hopefully that's not your problem. Check all ground points and see if your getting spark.
LIKEWISE. IT WAS MY ENGINE. THE IDLE BECAME ROUGH WITHIN A COUPLE OF SECONDS.
youll know if it tries to crank over! if you hear nothing then theres a problem
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: The People's Republic of California
For vhalin's reference, since I found it while reading some more:
There's a sensor right above the cat (or in the cat, not sure) that detects the heat in there. That's what the warning light is for. :p
There's a sensor right above the cat (or in the cat, not sure) that detects the heat in there. That's what the warning light is for. :p
Originally Posted by RaPtOr-T
Correct me if im wrong but that light is always on unless the engine is running. Same pattern as the check engine light.
unless my lights have been broken the whole time
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: The People's Republic of California
Light was never on for me before. I think I found the problem, but I need a scanner or a pfc commander /ecu to prove it. My guess is you guys were right and it was a wire grounding itself to the car, and that wire happen to be the heat sensor. Right now the car thinks it's hot, whenever I try and start the car, it attempts to crank and then the radiator fan comes on.
Unfortunately, wiring and I are not really friends, as wiring usually gets me frustrated, which is generally not good for working on a car. I'm running low on 'dammit' tools.
Unfortunately, wiring and I are not really friends, as wiring usually gets me frustrated, which is generally not good for working on a car. I'm running low on 'dammit' tools.
I agree with someone above.
Check fuses and spark first. You already know you got fuel cause of the smell so its not that (technically speaking).
Im having the same problem as you. I was doing the normal winter warmup and the car was idling perfect for like 5 minutes, then just died.
Now it cranks and cranks but doesnt turn over. I checked and changed (since it was that time anyway) all plugs, wires, the ignitor and the coils and it wasnt that. Now i know its the fuel. Im gonna make sure and check before i start replacing things.
Check fuses and spark first. You already know you got fuel cause of the smell so its not that (technically speaking).
Im having the same problem as you. I was doing the normal winter warmup and the car was idling perfect for like 5 minutes, then just died.
Now it cranks and cranks but doesnt turn over. I checked and changed (since it was that time anyway) all plugs, wires, the ignitor and the coils and it wasnt that. Now i know its the fuel. Im gonna make sure and check before i start replacing things.
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From: The People's Republic of California
Did a compression test on the block, came back zero for the rear and close to zero for the front. Guess that means it's time for my wallet to cry *tear*.
Originally Posted by StaticX27
Did a compression test on the block, came back zero for the rear and close to zero for the front. Guess that means it's time for my wallet to cry *tear*.
Sounds like you didnt do it correcly. What was your pattern like for all three rotor sides per housing? Look up how to do a correct rotary compression test. Usually you will still get one blip of compression because only one seal will fail. But there is the possibility that it took out two seals. But the fact that you got 0 compression on both housings is very very unlikely. So go makes sure your doing it correctly and get back to us.
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