have you ever turned the car over with out any spark plugs?

it rotates VERY fast.

why would you want to "help" it turn over? When you start your car it doesnt' have that help. RPM make a big difference in compression.

fsm also prolly uses the mazda compression testor wich is way different and factors rpms in to the test.

well i guess i never said you said...... i just stated it wont' make a 80 psi difference which is what he's look'n to need. Basically stating in this case- it's not really needed to have a warm engine.

yeah i know he did hold the valve down which is the same thing as removing the valve. But if he DIDN'T then 30 is still bad. That was my point

well carbon only needs to blow out one apex. That blown seal can do the rest.

i didnt' mean to be an *** or anything......... i said my view of the situation.

 

i did do the test on the rear without holding down the release valve, it pumped 30psi then a couple cranks then up to 60psi... no higher than that...

on the front rotor i couldent even get 10psi which is confusing the hell out of me.

i was using the leading plugs for both tests but i dont know how much of a difference that will make.

I have tried starting the car using both my haltech with 3bar gm sensor and the factory ecu with factory map sensor. ive done everything from atf fluid to the dreaded starting fluid with no results... the time i finally got it to start was because i got it cranking at about 300rpms with the starter and could hear it igniting a little bit, i held the pedal to the floor and let off the starter, it very slowly rose to about 3k rpms where i held it steady, after about a minute sitting there, blowing tons of smoke (probably the atf fluid) my friend heard very bad noises through the turbo area so i shut it down. car wont start again.

i have the pnp harness for the haltech.

sorry if some of the info in this post was repetitive from my first one.

While holding the release it should have 3 about even bounces in pressure if im not mistaken. no bounces in between right?

the thing that worries me the most is the sound of something going into the turbo and breaking up in there.. hard to belive that the car has 75k on it and im going to be getting my 3rd engine (2nd was put in 1k before i got the car)

 

All I am saying is that those numbers don't mean jack sh~t unless the compression test was done properly. I've had motors that showed less than 30psi doing a test similarly to the way XS did it (cold motor, holding valve down, etc), and yet they started and ran strong.

The way I see it, the problem is people get way too hung up on those numbers, and they really don't mean much (especially done improperly). I mean, obviously he has a problem here. That much we can all agree on. but that's pretty much all his compression test numbers say. It doesnt necessarily mean that he has a blown apex seal (or seals). Mildly sticking seals can cause very similar problem, and can be fixed fairly easily.

 

Oh, and don't worry Sesshoumaru. You weren't being an *** or anything like that. No problems. Just different view points I suppose.

 

It sounds like your leading coil could be bad. You might want to try that, or at least pull the leading plug wires and turn it over to see if there is any spark.

Also, if you have a PFC or Haltec check to make sure your sensors are ok, the ait intake and the fuel temp sensors. They both will throw everything off if they die.

Also, like someone else mentioned the compression reading dont mean as much, especially if it wasnt dont properly. What I'd do is what someone else suggested. Pull the rear leading plug and pull the egi fuse and just turn the engine over and listen. You could hear a nice even pattern of compressed air being released, if one sounds real weak or if its "skipping a beat" then you know there are problems. After checking the rear, put the plug back in and do the same on the front.

When you pull the plugs and turn it over to listen to the beats, look and see if there is a bunch of fuel and **** like that coming out.

STEPHEN

 

fair enough....we both agree he has a problems

those numbers are the only thing we can base any speculations off of. We both know it isn't done correctly, it more of 'how far off are they' and 'are they valid' sort of deal....

i also believe ppl get hung up on numbers........"oh my engine is only 80 psi....it's time for a rebuild" if it runs and pulls -it's fine.

in his case his car won't start and it's the only thing he can do.

the logical thing to do is start with the easiest thing. Try the atf fluid then progress until it's un-avoidable.

If your like me and look for an excuse to rebuild, now would be the time