I just read a bunch of posts and cant seem to find an answer. I'll try to keep it as short as possible.

My car is currently non-seq(poor mans) with a manual boost controller and was running great. I was hitting 12lbs no problem, pulling hard when I did the switch. I decided I was going to G-tech my car so out of town I go. I make a run(shitty one at that) and notice that my boost isn't up to snuff. I think to myself " I must have bumped my manual boost controller..... so I pop the hood and twist her a touch, then again, then again to still find out that I am barely hitting 10 lbs with no change and the controller is barely open.

On another note, (something that probably pertains to my problem) I took my friend for a ride since he has not felt the non-seq pull. When I would park my car for a while then fire it back up, it would not pull good, like something was stuck open. This time when I run, I had to run it hard about 3 times to get it to boost correctly. I was at WOT when whatever was leaking sealed up and you could here the shwooooop as it closed then it was on, and holy **** did the car go! I have never felt the car go like that.

Could it be a wastegate being stuck open? I am going to check out the car tomorrow night as I change the oil but I thought some of you guys could lead me in the right direction. I will try swapping the bov for the crv first but I need it to boost like it did before.... need to decemate an STI owner with puffskull

 

I wouldnt make anymore hard runs until you figure this out, you dont want to spike and blow your motor. Are you running a pre spool controller also?

 

I have the same issues with my non-seq, as far as it not pulling correctly, should have a lot more power at 14 psi, hesitates and stutters in higher RPM's, waiting for my wideband to figure it out.

 

I dont have a need for a precontrol since I am non-seq. I used to have a stuttering issue but solved that with new plugs.

 

I suggest you start inspecting the wg lines for tears or problems, and inspect all the intake piping very carefully. (the old remove, turn coupler inside out, look for small cracks procedure). If you find something, be careful that your adjusted boost controller doesn't suddenly hit higher than 12psi when you take it out on your first test run.

Dave

 

I agfree with DGeesaman, turn your boost right down before you start trying to fix it, or else you could end up with a 20psi grenade in your engine bay once it does come on full boost.

Hope you get it sorted.

 

I am very careful when it comes to playing around... I watch that gauge like a hawk when making adjustments. It just seems to me to be something mechanical. Just wanted to know if anyone else has had this problem occur on their car. I'll get to the bottom of it I'm sure....