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Can you use HKS EVC 5 boost controller without waste gate/pre control solenoids?

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Can you use HKS EVC 5 boost controller without waste gate/pre control solenoids?

Old 05-11-10, 08:32 AM
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Can you use HKS EVC 5 boost controller without waste gate/pre control solenoids?

Hello, I have the EVC hooked up with the wast gate/pre controle unplugged and I'm getting a bunch of creep under 3K rpm. I also just found out that both of the solenoids are not working properly, so my question is can I still use my boost controler for the sequential twins with out them. And if so what lines do I cap/loop?

Thanks,

Justin
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Old 05-11-10, 09:46 AM
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I highly doubt there is anything wrong with your precontrol and wastegate solenoids. They don't fail often. Put 12 volts to them and air should pass through them. That being said, yes you can use the EVC. You need to cap off one of the nipples on both the wastegate and precontrol actuators. Then hook the EVC up to both using a T. By doing that you are losing the independent control of each actuator that the factory system provides through the use of two different solenoids.

Are you on a stock ECU? Also, if your wastegate is being overrun you will still have creep until you port it out or put more restriction in the exhaust.
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Old 05-11-10, 09:55 AM
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yes I'm using the stock ecu. Here is a pic of the diagram that I used. I followed everything exactly, including leaving the vacuum hoses hooked up to the solenoids just unplugged them.
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So your saying to cap off all four of the nipples that the four vacuum hoses going to the solenoids? Sorry I'm a bit confused.
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Old 05-11-10, 10:01 AM
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The hose that goes from the actuators to their respective factory solenoids should be removed and the nipples capped off. So yes that's right.
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Old 05-11-10, 10:03 AM
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The reason why you do that is because the factory solenoids bleed the air out of the actuator already. The EVC is controlling how much air enters the actuator. So now you have both the inlet and outlet being regulated, so I bet very little pressure is building up in the actuators and they aren't opening.
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Old 05-11-10, 10:07 AM
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Instead of capping all of them off individually could I just loop the lines?
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Old 05-11-10, 01:31 PM
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On the turbo actuator, you need to cap the nipple there. You can't loop them together - well, I guess you *could*, but capping is a better idea. There are 2 nipples on each actuator, one goes to the compressor housing, one goes to the stock turbo control solenoids. Cap the one going to the solenoids.

With that done you can totally remove the stock turbo control solenoids and cap off the nipples going to them.

If that nipple is left open, you will get weird boost or overboost for sure.

For caps, I recommend EPDM rubber vacuum caps from McMaster-Carr. They can take the heat, put them on and forget them.

Dale
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Old 05-12-10, 11:13 AM
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Thanks for the info dale. I put a cap on each of the nipples and am going to give the car a run to see if I can stay within 10lbs. It's always third gear and above that give me the biggest trouble with spikes. I'm not sure why seeing as all I have done to the car breathing wise are dp and a cat back exhaust.
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Old 05-13-10, 10:03 AM
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Well everything seems to work okay. The boost response is great but I still tend to get a bit of creep in third gear and higher. Amby I have set up the EVC wrong so Ill attach a few pics of what I'm seeing.

Here is just the desplay screen. Im using setting ""A" the warning is set at 11.5psi.
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This is after I press the "MOD" button once. It shows my "A" setting. I have it at 8psi because if I go one up to 10 it always over boosts.
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This is the setting for the "B"mode. Again I have boost set at 8psi, Im not really sure what the 9 above it is...
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Here is the warning level I set the chime to go off at "11.5psi"
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And here is what (pressure I think) I have set the other controler to. (8)
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I'm almost certain that I need to tweak my settings to get everything to work correctly but as this is my first electronic boost controller I'm a bit lost.
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Old 05-13-10, 10:31 AM
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I think you can loop the metal lines and remove the turbo control solenoids and sell em for 50

I don't think you'll get a flat 10 psi in 3rd or 4th gear without installing a restrictor plate or porting the wastegate. I find with a stock mid cat DP and CB I get 1 or 2 pounds of creep which in my book is tolerable. With a DP, MP and CB I'll see 4 or 5lbs of creep which is emergency MP removal time.

Find a PFC and have Ray at PFS tune that baby and run 12 psi and you'll be a happy camper.

PS NICE controller BTW
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Old 05-13-10, 10:43 AM
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Thanks Fritz, the controller is nice I just wish this thing would boost correctly. I know it tends to get 13-14 psi on the primary turbo in third but can calm back down when the secondary kicks in. The strange thing is if I run though second and shift to third and fourth the boost stays in order but starting out in third under 3,300 rpm Ill get creep.
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Old 05-13-10, 11:57 AM
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I didn't realize that there was more than one type of EVC5 - That looks nothing like mine.

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Old 05-13-10, 12:08 PM
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There is a chance that adjusting the offset setting will help a little.



Attached Thumbnails Can you use HKS EVC 5 boost controller without waste gate/pre control solenoids?-evc_5_offset1.jpg   Can you use HKS EVC 5 boost controller without waste gate/pre control solenoids?-evc_5_offset2.jpg  
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Old 05-13-10, 05:00 PM
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Does anyone have any first hand experience with the offset setting % to keep the twins around the 10-10.5psi range in higher gears(3rd+) or lower rpm range(below 3K)? I seem to be getting the most amount of spiking from the primary turbo at the lower rpm range.
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Old 05-13-10, 05:17 PM
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Also can someone please explain to me the purpose of the second controler with the two big *****. Im not sure if I can use that to help with the over boosting issue.
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Old 02-12-16, 01:21 AM
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