I have idle problems that keep on haunting me. I have a stock ECU and my engine revs at 2,000 to 2500 rpm's after warm up. I can see by my vacuum guage that the intake manifold is taking in air from the BAC system( I have a brand new vacuum hose job and checked for leaks) I really don't want to replace either of these valves, I live in San Diego and I really don't think the AWS valve is needed. I think the problem is the IAC. Can I get rid of this valve also and set the idle a little higher than 750 in case I want to use the air conditioner. I guess my question is, will the engine idle stay stable without the IAC valve which is $600.00 and a total ripp off. Has any of you tried removing these valves and running your rex? Does it run OK?

Thanks to all you experts for your know how!!!

 

You can block off the AWS solenoid pipe, but if you remove the solenoid your ECU will throw a code. Blocking the pipe will disable the 3k RPM start up

Your IAC is probably fine. I would remove it and clean it really well, then reinstall it. You can increase idle to about 850-900. If you search you can find some good write-ups for properly adjusting your idle.

 

Great I will try that. But what if the IAC is bad. Can I bypass that too or do I have to buy a new one for $600.

 

Check the FAQ thread and search on past threads about idle issues. There are lots of good threads out there - especially in the Archives sub forum here in the 3rd gen section.

The FSM has the procedure to test the IAC solenoid. Download and follow the procedures there to test it.

Often idle issues are caused by improper throttle body settings.

I don't think you can get rid of any of those solenoids on the stock ecu.

Did the problem exist before the vac hose job? Who did the hose job? What other mods do you have?

 

After a lot of investigation work on the website archives I was able to go strait to the BAC system and check both my AWS and IAC. I checked the AWS and it was clean and had no leaks. Also I had no problem with the AWS in the fact that the car on warmup would hit 3,000rpm and after 17 secounds go down in idle. When I checked the IAC it was stuck open at least a quarter of an inch from the seat! I soaked it in solvent for an hour and that released the shaft. I then oiled the hell out of it and moved the valve back and forth to make sure it operated freely. I check the coil and there was 12.5 ohms of resistance. I reinstalled the IAC and now everthing works just fine. The idle stays at 850 amd never strays! Thank God that problem is fixed

 

You still want to disable the AWS. Its not a good thing for your car.

 

Good job.

If it was me, I'd be looking for a low mileage spare in the event this happens again.

 

Or you can always start the car in gear, or blip the throttle a bit when the AWS kicks in.

Dave