xxfetusmanusxx

ok so the mechanic says it has no compression on the number 1 rotor... but it starts fine...kinda flooded... and it dies sometimes on the take off... once its over 2k rpms its just normal, it hesitates around 3 to 4k and the boom im gone... it pulls crazy when im above 4k. i just cant think its blown... it smokes whiteish/lil bit blue smoke @ idle but once im going it clears up and looks normal... how is it supposed to feel to have no #1 rotor?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

IF it had NO compression on a rotor, it'd feel like a 6 cylinder running on 5 or 3 cylinders (depending on how many seals it blew). IT'd start rough, sound like a lawnmower, refuse to idle below 1500, and you'd have to slip the clutch a lot to pull off from a stop. And you couldn't build full boost, maybe half. Sounds like it might be weak, but not blown. IT's hard to screw up a compression test so badly as to get nothing though, so I wonder...

xxfetusmanusxx

i sounds like a lawnmower, it idles at 1600rpms and after warmup it goes down to 900....

xxfetusmanusxx

but it roars like an evil mistical beast after 3500k

yodaddy

it is gone, you can continue driving on it if you like but you will def need arebuild soon. they can still run when "blown" especially at higher rpm's.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

I say get a second compression test. A blown engine won't "roar" at any rpm...they pretty much run out of steam at 60-70mph most of the time.

Snook

iTrader: (12)

you may have chipped the edge of one of the seals and the car will be almost as fast once you get above 3k rpm. If you totally blew a seal you would have 0 power even flooring it. BTW a totally blown engine can boost fully at a bit higher rpms it just wont go anywhere even with full boost.

If you chipped a seal and you continue to drive it like a beast or whatever you said then in a few hundred miles it will totally blow up on you

cloud9

iTrader: (4)

if a APEX seal is gone, then the motor will not want to idle on it's own, I had to feed mine gas constantly to keep it alive when it blew, although if there is basically NO power below 1500 rpm then there is a damn good chance it's gone, maybe it's a vacume hose though.... good luck

xxfetusmanusxx

well it idles with no problem.... i did a manual compression check and i feel air coming out but i didnt feel it sucking much air.....

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Why would it suck in air? You're checking during the compression phase, not the intake phase...

xxfetusmanusxx

well i satarted another thread on manual compresion testing and everyone say it should blow and suck.... https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/manual-compression-checking-341323/ ...

alberto_mg

i think you need a new mechanic!

go to the regional forums and search for one there.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Check out the tech section in my webpage, there is a writeup there about this. It might help you diagnose your own problem, or lack thereof.


www.rotaryresurrection.com ----> tech

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

I can't believe no one has mentioned this......

What is your vacuum at idle, and be sure to take note of the idle rpm. Is the needle smooth, or does it bounce up and down?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

You can get all different sorts of vacuum readings depending on idle rpm (throttle plate position and ISC opening) , porting style, compression, gauge quality, and gauge hose positioning on the motor. IT is a good troubleshooting tool on an engine that has previously run at a certain level that you can compare against, but every engine/setup is different so you can't take a new engine and troubleshoot by vacuum readings alone. They may give you an idea one way or another, but nothing solid. That's what the compression check (done properly) is for.