rommellikewhoa

iTrader: (6)

I have a blown set of twins that is leaking oil like crazy out of the intake part of the turbos, out of the actuators, etc etc. The shaft on the primary turbo has about 1/8" of shaft play in-and-out. There is no play in the secondary turbo.

The only redeeming factor on the blown turbo is that the housing is in decent shape and the fins are in decent shape.






I bought a set of twins that have 50k on them. THey have a couple of problems, although they are supposedly not blown. THere is no shaft play, but the turbine wheel on the primary has a fin that is bent on the corner. I'm going to guess that this'll negatively affect both the balance and overall performance of the turbo, right?





WHat I want to do is take the turbine wheel off the old turbo, as well as the housing from the old turbo and use it with the innards of the newER turbo. I want to take the best parts of both sets and piece them together. Is this possible? Would this require any re-balancing of the shafts? I'm trying to do this without running into the same problems everyone seems to have when they do DIY rebuilds. I'm guessing its not just a simple unbolt, and rebolt, and that i'll have to be careful about torquespecs and balancing... Any help anyone can give me on this would be appreciated.

zayrx7

yes you can

rommellikewhoa

iTrader: (6)

ANything in particular I'll have to look out for/avoid to make sure I don't have any problems when i mix and match these parts and put the sucker back in? Will what I'm looking to do require a rebalancing of the turbo?

theorie

iTrader: (31)

if you don't disassemble the CHRA / CRHA (whatever you call it) then you don't need to rebalanced anything.

just disassemble the two sets, then put one set together using whichever parts seem to have less wear.

that's what i did, worked fine for me.

pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

Get those extra long needle nose pliers from harborfreight tools.com so you can clamp on the c-ring when you release the CHRA from the housing. Make sure you mark the CHRA relative to the manifold housing with a scribing tool. Use nickel based anti-seize and torque the bolts using a 10 mm closed end wrench on the bolts and the 3/8 inch torque wrench on the open end of the 10 mm wrench. Torque to torque level for a 6 mm grade 9 bolt.