Stevey629

OK, Ive decided to go with a reman, and was wondering if any of u guys can get me a good price on a reman from mazda. I was reading a while ago in some thread that someone works for mazda and can get good prices on remans. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.

Another thing, is that I was wondering if running with a reman would be the way to go. Ive heard about the horror stories of the remans, but assuming that mazda provides some sort of warranty, that peace of mind for the price works for me. My plans are to run stock for a while, with upgraded cooling (radiator) and maybe a K&N filter, DP and exhaust. OF course, upgraded injectors and some sort of fuel management will be neceessary, but if I were to run these mods on a reman, tuned properly, should I be okay? I think just being smart about the modifying process will keep the motor running well, someone correct me if IM wrong, and should stay away from the remans.

DamonB

Call Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda.

888-533-3400

dubulup

No injectors and computer are not necessary.

spurvo

Thought I'd mention: my reman from Malloy is in the process of being torn down, inspected, upgraded, and put back together again by Pineapple Racing.

Upon teardown, they saw that the rotor bearings were pretty severly scored, probably by previous owner, and they hadn't been replaced during the reman process. Accordingly, Rob et al are replacing those, and the main eccentric shaft bearings while they're at it. They are keeping the bad bearings at my request, and I'll bring 'em back up with me and photograph them for all to see. This was exactly why I wanted Pineapple to do this. Now I KNOW that all is within spec in the engine, my warantee will be five times longer than Malloy's, and now all I gotta do is install it correctly

While I'm sure there are pleany of folks who've had fine experiences with their remans, I still think it isn't to the level of a rebuild from a professional rotary shop. I'm just kind of using both worlds so I can abuse the tired old engine a little longer. With all the abuse, I've discovered a pressure drop to 5 psi after transition. You call it broken, I call it saftey margin. Turbo control, methinks. But WTF do I know?

Anyway, that's my input from a reman that shipped on April 11, 2003. I STILL think the reman is probably the best all around solution, but I also think a little TLC is in order...

Stevey629

yikes. its stories like that spurvo, that are giving me second thoughts on just getting a hold of a reman core, and just ploppin' it under my hood and running it without checking it out first. Its kind of a shot in the dark, gambling with a mazda "spec" reman. The surefire way would be to send it to a place like pineapple, but waiting around for 5-6 weeks or paying the extra money is equally enticing as it is expensive.

Ok, the essential predicament aside from making 100% sure the motor is going to run well all by itself, is whether or not to modify the coolant/oil passages, and port it. Do these mods, particularly the coolant and oil ones, really need to be done? I mean, of course the motor can run well without them if done right, but if I have these done, it cant hurt it can it? I mean, the eventual plan is to either just do basic bolt ons for my motor, retaining stock twins, or upgrading to an average to smaller sized single. So, would I be okay without a street port, and without any of those other mods? An upgraded radiator, possibly oil cooler, and Downpipe for the stock twins is going to be top of the list when getting the car back in running shape.

paw140

A reman from Malloy, with shipping both ways and a gasket kit cost me $2200.

If I had to do it again, I would seriously consider going with Pineapple racing. ArchangelX just had his engine rebuilt by Pineapple with new rotor housings and a streetport, IIRC, and a 5 yr warranty for like $2500. At least that's what I understood... Sounds like an awesome deal!

spurvo

Hmmm.. not sure. If you do get it ported, you MUST upgrade the fuel delivery and shift the ignition timing to make use of the porting, from what I understand. In my case, I'm staying completely stock except downpipe and reliability upgrades (radiator, grounding, fuel filter moved to engine bay, etc.), so porting and its attendant requiremnts is something I won't be contending with. For your case, it is hard for me, who has less experience in the mod world, to give advice. If you go single turbo, I'm pretty sure you have to upgrade/change the ECU, so if you are SURE you are going to go this route, AND you have the money, I'd go with a full engine management system when you do the rebuild. You will have to make changes to the engine harness, but you will have expandability and tune-ability for the life of your project. BUT!!!!! you absolutely MUST get your engine tuned properly EVRY time you make a change to it with the programmable ECU, which may be more than you really want to deal with. In that case, I think you really want to look on the forum at all the performance mods, do some soul searching as to what you really need/want to get out of the car (propely running stock twins has more power than I know what to do with, so that's why I'm staying stock, plus I want to DRIVE my car, not replace the engine when I tune it incorrectly, and the V-8 guys need not comment here, thanks...) and then get an ECU chip burned for the mods you wish to use. The level of mods you indicate at the end of your previous post actually should not need and upgraded ECU at all.

For oiling mods, well, these don't hurt the engine, only help. Are they needed for a strictly stock application? I don't think so. Are they needed for higher power upgrades? Yeah, you probably will wish they were in there.

So that's all I know for now. I'm probably going to try to do an in depth write up on what I'm doing, with things like listing all the gaskets and O-rings that come with the full engine replacement kit (LOTS of stuff not listed in the parts fiche!!!) and pictures.

Hope this helps...

jpandes

Stevey,

I have spoken to three shops here in the SF bay area that all recommend/use Atkins Rotary motors:

C2 Automotive
Diablo Import Service in Pleasant Hill, 925 676-2782
PR Motorsports in Hayward, 510 786-0851

They all ahd negative things to say about their first hand experiences with the Mazda Reman's that they have gotten for customers. They ALL now work with Atkins Rotary(http://www.atkinsrotary.com).

Atkins charges 2350.00 for a motor that they build and warranty + 900 for core exchange. $300 more for Porting and Polishing. C2 Automotive quoted me $1300-1400 for the installation. +$988.00 for the Power FC and Commander from www.greenline.jp


I hope this helps.

~ John

911GT2

I just ordered a Mazda Reman from Ray at Malloy. It's being shipped to KDR in pennsylvannia for a tear down, inspection, and street port. It was $2240 to get the motor, including shipping both ways and gaskets.

exturbogsr01

What does KDR charge to do this? Do they offer an additional warranty? I'm only like an hour from them and hear a lot of good things about them

SleepR1

Ray Crowe's the man @ Malloy. Kim Barninger's the woman @ KD Rotary. She does all the engine work $3500 total for mine. That's having the Malloy Reman shipped to KDR, torn down, ported, plus reliability mods, reassembled. Dave has a warranty for 12,000 miles or 1 year for leaks and workmanship. Rx7 Store did the install, plus all the mods (see signature for details). FWIW, Dave told me that my Malloy reman had 90% new parts, and was in outstanding, as new condition.

Stevey629

"reliability mods". Coolant/Oil passages modified?

karken29

I bought a Malloy Reman last October as well. I too went through Ray Crowe who treated me well and gave me a super deal... However, I didn't tear the reman down for interior inspection so my experience with the new motor, while good, is also anecdotal. Mazda gives a 12 month warranty on Reman-motors.

As for the upgrades, I'm running Apexi air filters, D/P, Stock Cat, and Drager Exhaust and PFS purple box. @ 12 PSI I put down 290 RWHP, haven't had a single leak, barely have to ad oil except as normal operation requires. I'm using VR-1, 20W-50. I also installed a fluidyne Radiator and a Greddy Temp gauge, courtesy of Gotham Racing.com. My temps are a solid 82 degrees regardless of outside temperatures... We just an 88 Degree Fahrenheit day here recently and my engine coolant temps still ranged btween 81 to 83C.

Future plans are to upgrade my I/C but haven't decided on which one yet... I want to maintain the stock battery mount location so that'll dictate to larger degree which I/C I finally install.

SleepR1

karken, wow your motor runs cool!

stevey, yes reliability mods are oil, coolant passages, enlarged, eccentric shaft mod (for constant oiling of eccentric shaft), silicone o-ring gaskets (instead of the stock rubber ones), and dowel pins (not sure what this is exactly). Pineapple doesn't do all of these mods, just a couple, plus enlarged intake and exhaust ports. I've read about leaky motors from Pineapple, and know of two FD owners who had leaks with their Pineapple motors.

God, don't go to Atkins. Their motors are not the best. Do a search on Atkins, and you'll find many threads (mostly negative).

exturbogsr01

Do you have any idea what KDR they would charge to do it on a motor that is still in working condition? I mean when I buy a car if it has a decent amount of miles I'd rather get it in tip top shape right away and not worry about blowing the engine first.

Stevey629

OK, so if there are cases with leaks from even a well-coveted place such as pineapple, what would be the best thing to do? I would rather keep it local, that way I can come by and check progress, watch stages of the rebuild, such and so forth. Shipping costs are none, and turn around is much faster. However, there is no warranty, and I dont know what kind of work is done, whether its done right, etc.

Stevey629

OH, and has anyone gone through mazdatrix?

Radical Rotary Avantgard

Karken29, are those temps with A/C on or Off???
Also at what speed??
City or highway??
What if you are stuck in traffic what is the maximum temp you seen??
Please report in the heat of the summer with A/C on and stuck on traffic.

karken29

1. A/C is off...
2. local in-town driving... I live in a suburan area of New Jersey... but am close enought to New York city that traffic volume makes driving no fun.... especially during rush hours... Then I'm in a large moving parking lot...
3. I just installed the fluidyne Radiator... so you'll have to wait on summer time experience.
4. I forgot to mention that I always run with radiator fans ON... For those times when I forgot to turn them on, my temps, when driving locally, have ranged between 87 and 90C.
5. Highway driving doesn't seem to matter much...weather I run the fans or not... temps range between 81 to 83C. If I start driving hard, boosting and such, they go up to 85C.... If I do the same with fans on... no more than 83C..
6. Speeds? Whatever I can get away with
Where possible I cruise 80MPH on highways... Local driving I guess averages between 35 to 40~45 MPH.... but as traffic builds speeds slow to 25 to 30 MPH... Usually caused by High volume, SUV's and lost people...