Cable Management
03-03-04, 10:14 AM
#26
built my own engine
cable managment, rewrapping stock wiring, lol
get a haltech and you get a brand new wiring harness and eliminate almost all of the wires
and they were right, that babyshitblue color is horrible
get a haltech and you get a brand new wiring harness and eliminate almost all of the wires
and they were right, that babyshitblue color is horrible
03-03-04, 10:43 AM
#27
Faster
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Easy on the smurf blue! My IC piping and calipers have a slightly darker shade of blue than that!
As long as it runs, I'll deal with it. However, Hardpipes and the anti smurf blue overhaul is in the to-do line.
As long as it runs, I'll deal with it. However, Hardpipes and the anti smurf blue overhaul is in the to-do line.
03-03-04, 11:15 AM
#28
Super Snuggles
Originally posted by Mahjik
That car is the most reliable 357rwhp car I've ever been around
That car is the most reliable 357rwhp car I've ever been around
03-03-04, 05:47 PM
#30
Originally posted by fitzrx7
Hmm, maybe you should check out my sig...
Hmm, maybe you should check out my sig...
Originally posted by fitzrx7
You'd have to be plain stupid not to think cold air does anything, ask any engineer, pilot, or educated person, air density is a function of temperature and air density effects HP generation, FYI Dynojet's rule of thumb is approx 1%HP for every 10deg F change.
You'd have to be plain stupid not to think cold air does anything, ask any engineer, pilot, or educated person, air density is a function of temperature and air density effects HP generation, FYI Dynojet's rule of thumb is approx 1%HP for every 10deg F change.
Originally posted by fitzrx7
My car makes 355 RWHP at 13psi with a cold air intake, hmmmmm maybe hot air does have something to do with it, and it's still sequential, it would make even more w/o that restriction in the exhaust.
My car makes 355 RWHP at 13psi with a cold air intake, hmmmmm maybe hot air does have something to do with it, and it's still sequential, it would make even more w/o that restriction in the exhaust.
Originally posted by fitzrx7
My engine isn’t as "bling bling" as that one, but it gets the job done. I built it myself and it has been running strong for a year and a half, car has 170k miles on it, about 40k on the new motor.
My engine isn’t as "bling bling" as that one, but it gets the job done. I built it myself and it has been running strong for a year and a half, car has 170k miles on it, about 40k on the new motor.
03-03-04, 07:23 PM
#34
Super Snuggles
Originally posted by novadan67
How does a thread about wire looms turn into a cold air / HP / Corvette / Ferrari debate? Some serious hijacking going on here...
How does a thread about wire looms turn into a cold air / HP / Corvette / Ferrari debate? Some serious hijacking going on here...
03-03-04, 07:25 PM
#35
"It's not that simple"
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Originally posted by jimlab
The wire loom was a bad idea. No more need to discuss it, especially since he's removed it.
The wire loom was a bad idea. No more need to discuss it, especially since he's removed it.
Last edited by novadan67; 03-03-04 at 07:27 PM.
03-03-04, 07:34 PM
#36
Super Snuggles
Originally posted by xstacy7
Can someone say BLING please
Can someone say BLING please
Originally posted by novadan67
Then this thread should be closed.
Then this thread should be closed.
03-03-04, 08:24 PM
#37
Rotary on a budget
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lol, comeing back to this, the loom looks really bad with the green shade of the paint, but when i was looking at it, the car was blue at the moment...Thanks to the lovly color shift of montego blue..
Im in the work of fabing a duct to direct air directly to my intake.
Im in the work of fabing a duct to direct air directly to my intake.
03-03-04, 08:42 PM
#38
wHiTe kNiGhT
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Originally posted by Mahjik
The Dynojet rule is because the car is motionless. Once the car is in motion, the amount of air will play a much bigger role than a few degrees of temp difference. One of the misconceptions of "cold air" is people use the analogy of driving on a cool day which is NOT the same thing. On a cool day, your IC is also getting the benefit of the colder ambient temps therefor making it much more efficient which has nothing to do with the intake temps themselves (which is why things like water injection or CO2 IC sprayers offer MUCH better performance gains than "cold air intakes".
The Dynojet rule is because the car is motionless. Once the car is in motion, the amount of air will play a much bigger role than a few degrees of temp difference. One of the misconceptions of "cold air" is people use the analogy of driving on a cool day which is NOT the same thing. On a cool day, your IC is also getting the benefit of the colder ambient temps therefor making it much more efficient which has nothing to do with the intake temps themselves (which is why things like water injection or CO2 IC sprayers offer MUCH better performance gains than "cold air intakes".
back to the loom, put yellow in there an im sure they will look much better with montego blue. also just black will look good, its up to you, your fd
03-03-04, 08:50 PM
#39
Administrative Me
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I have a hot air intake as well.
I am not too worried about it though.
A long time back, a few of us some calculations to determine the power difference based on intake tempatures with a few other people here. These included turbo efficiencies (some single turbo we used with its compressor chart), VE of the engine, etc etc.
I can't remember exactly, but every 10o or so equated to .5 BHP or something like that.
Jim, care to give an appropriate answer? I am sure you have some scientific equation waiting to solve all.
I am not too worried about it though.
A long time back, a few of us some calculations to determine the power difference based on intake tempatures with a few other people here. These included turbo efficiencies (some single turbo we used with its compressor chart), VE of the engine, etc etc.
I can't remember exactly, but every 10o or so equated to .5 BHP or something like that.
Jim, care to give an appropriate answer? I am sure you have some scientific equation waiting to solve all.
03-03-04, 08:51 PM
#41
The Man
Originally posted by ISUposs
Art's car is still sequential too. He's pretty adamant about it too.
With that said cold air IS better than hot air. When you do turbo compressor map calculations, air temp does affect Corrected Mass Flow Rate (CMF) and later efficiency. Basically, if you have less losses in compressing the intake charge, you don't "use" as much energy creating that compressed air. (we all know that turbos are "free" hp unlike supercharging..haha) Therefore creating a more efficient system, which will increase horsepower. Plus, since the twins seem to lose efficiency and overspin much above 15psi or so, it seems logical that colder air would not create as much of a need to spin as fast (more air consumed per revolution) and increase turbo life.
Art is proof that you can still make tons of power with a "hot-air" intake, but I am curious if it would change if infact air was drawn from a cool source. In a dyno situation, the hood is open and your intake temp should be virtually the same between a cold air setup and a warm air setup. He also has a scoot hood which should also keep under hood temps quite cool.
Art's car is still sequential too. He's pretty adamant about it too.
With that said cold air IS better than hot air. When you do turbo compressor map calculations, air temp does affect Corrected Mass Flow Rate (CMF) and later efficiency. Basically, if you have less losses in compressing the intake charge, you don't "use" as much energy creating that compressed air. (we all know that turbos are "free" hp unlike supercharging..haha) Therefore creating a more efficient system, which will increase horsepower. Plus, since the twins seem to lose efficiency and overspin much above 15psi or so, it seems logical that colder air would not create as much of a need to spin as fast (more air consumed per revolution) and increase turbo life.
Art is proof that you can still make tons of power with a "hot-air" intake, but I am curious if it would change if infact air was drawn from a cool source. In a dyno situation, the hood is open and your intake temp should be virtually the same between a cold air setup and a warm air setup. He also has a scoot hood which should also keep under hood temps quite cool.
Anyway, don't forget your laws of thermodynamics either fellas, a cold air intake, in any other N/A setup will provide more power because of the density of the air etc, BUT, when you suck it into a set of small scrolled Turbo's like the HT 12's, and compressing it, it is heating right back up. So that whopping 15degree lower intake charge just got whipped right back up to 240 degree's. This is exactly why those genius' at Mazda installed the Intercooler. NOW, if you have an efficient intercooler, this will reduce the charge of air going into the engine. I've done many tests on the dyno, and with a Gtech and show absolutely NO, O, zilch, nada, difference in intake temperatures with an intake tube feeding my primary turbo straight from in front of the passenger oil cooler(removed the duct and have sleek light kit). So although great and sound in true N/A form, just doesn't pan out to anything in our application. If we didn't have an intercooler, Maybe, just Maybe a cold air intake with a nicely sized single would make a few degrees difference.
BTW: Jim I'd have to agree with you on the Z06, nice and reliable is the Z06, but you have to agree, it's still a Corvette. I see more Corvette's than I can shake a stick at here in Kansas City. Best thing is they think they are the fastest cars in the WORLD!!!!! But definitely a nicely engineered all around car.
Art
03-03-04, 08:54 PM
#42
i hate vette's. Take the money you save, get an FD, do reliability mods (cold air intake-because its better) and smoke a vette. Cold air does help, why the hell would someone put ice on their intake before they ran the quarter mile?? My buddy had a civic with a single and had an icebox in his trunk. He ran the line into a water-to-air intercooler. Said it worked much better than warm air.
Take the money you save, get an FD, do reliability mods (cold air intake-because its better) and smoke a vette. Cold air does help, why the hell would someone put ice on their intake before they ran the quarter mile?? My buddy had a civic with a single and had an icebox in his trunk. He ran the line into a water-to-air intercooler. Said it worked much better than warm air.
03-03-04, 09:04 PM
#44
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Originally posted by iceman4357
dude(red-rx7) that **** is gonna FLY when you get it built. I wanna see time slips
dude(red-rx7) that **** is gonna FLY when you get it built. I wanna see time slips
Art (the uber pretty neato polished engine bay) is having a get together on the 21st, and I think that is the day I am bringing the car home.
I am excited to bring the car home, but it sucks that I won't get to see my fellow buddies either. That, and last time Art cooked me a Hamburger he nearly killed me. I had some reaction, and I was MikeyBubaGumpShrimpLips. .. Oh, the old times.
03-03-04, 09:25 PM
#47
Originally posted by 7-sins
One question Mahjik with the plastic how did you make it look that chrome? Like the relay covers and the vacuum tanks. Usually the chrome in a can dosent turn out that mirror finish for me.
One question Mahjik with the plastic how did you make it look that chrome? Like the relay covers and the vacuum tanks. Usually the chrome in a can dosent turn out that mirror finish for me.
03-04-04, 12:32 AM
#49
DRIVE THE ROTARY SPORTS
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Originally posted by Red-Rx7
I have a hot air intake as well.
I am not too worried about it though.
A long time back, a few of us some calculations to determine the power difference based on intake tempatures with a few other people here. These included turbo efficiencies (some single turbo we used with its compressor chart), VE of the engine, etc etc.
I can't remember exactly, but every 10o or so equated to .5 BHP or something like that.
Jim, care to give an appropriate answer? I am sure you have some scientific equation waiting to solve all.
I have a hot air intake as well.
I am not too worried about it though.
A long time back, a few of us some calculations to determine the power difference based on intake tempatures with a few other people here. These included turbo efficiencies (some single turbo we used with its compressor chart), VE of the engine, etc etc.
I can't remember exactly, but every 10o or so equated to .5 BHP or something like that.
Jim, care to give an appropriate answer? I am sure you have some scientific equation waiting to solve all.
YES YES YES YES YES
!!!!! this is one intake that sucks hot air, but DEFINATLY DOESN'T SUCK!!! 
PS i like your elbow, i was thinking about going with the greddy but im realy liking your solution of just angling it slightly downward... did you do the work your self? looks real nice... i may have to copy it
haha. also is there any reason you decided to stick with the stock 20b TB instead of going with the larger FD TB?do you have any more pics of your car, lying around? id LOVE to see more. -heath
03-04-04, 12:55 AM
#50
Super Snuggles
Assuming you have an intercooler efficient enough to prevent a superheated intake charge, there's nothing particularly wrong with a "hot air" intake, but it's not ideal either. The reason a cold air intake is particularly desirable with the FD is because the stock intercooler is so terribly inefficient and prone to heat soak, and because the underhood temperatures are typically very high.
The facts are that the cooler you can make the intake charge, the more power you will make, and the larger the margin of safety you'll have where detonation is concerned.
Think of it this way... cooler air is denser. The cooler you can make the air going into the engine, the more you can fit into the combustion chamber at a given boost level. The more air and fuel you can burn in a given amount of time, the more horsepower you'll make. Pretty simple.
The facts are that the cooler you can make the intake charge, the more power you will make, and the larger the margin of safety you'll have where detonation is concerned.
Think of it this way... cooler air is denser. The cooler you can make the air going into the engine, the more you can fit into the combustion chamber at a given boost level. The more air and fuel you can burn in a given amount of time, the more horsepower you'll make. Pretty simple.