The tensioner is threaded so you can adust it up or down. If you turn the tensioner CCW with the belt on top of the idler, it puts tension on the belt and on the tensioner bolt. A steel shaft in tension is stronger than one in compression anyway.

 

It's threaded, but its just a bolt that pushes against the spindle of the pully. I don't know how your going to get it to pull on it. You'd have to manually push on the pully from the bottem, then tighten the retaining bolt... the tension bolt won't do you any good.

 

I love my manual rack (FC). Really easy to turn with 225's.

What i'm doing is i "de-cored" the pump so basically all you have is a shaft and the pully.

Then you dont' have to worry about the belt/pullies.

 

If you look closely you'll see that the tensioner bolt is threaded into the piece on the back of the spindle as well as into the top of the bracket; the tensioner bolt is step-threaded. When you raise the spindle, the tensioner bolt unthreads from the top of the bracket and simultaneously threads into the piece on the back of the spindle effectively doubling the pulley travel with each turn. You can tension the belt in the no P/S arrangement so tight it will wreck the bearings if you so desire.

 

IM in the same boat, I would really like to remove the P/S but im really curious if I would like the way it rides.. ESPECIALLY in Japan.

Railgun--You actually changed the rack and ***** too?

 

Wow, i'll take a closer look. Thanks!!