A/C removal how to??
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11-09-06, 04:11 PM
#29
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its not that bad. i broke mine, and it went into my face. its a good hair gel, all sticky and ****. 
i might do a write up this weekend as im pulling mine out. havnt done it so should be fun. 
i might do a write up this weekend as im pulling mine out. havnt done it so should be fun.
11-09-06, 06:02 PM
#30
Originally Posted by d1rx7
its not that bad. i broke mine, and it went into my face. its a good hair gel, all sticky and ****. i might do a write up this weekend as im pulling mine out. havnt done it so should be fun.
i might do a write up this weekend as im pulling mine out. havnt done it so should be fun.
11-10-06, 12:20 AM
#32
Originally Posted by oo7arkman
"Legos" dude...you friggin crack me up. or maybe b/c it is just the end of another 16hr work day... Anyways, if I get time this weekend I will be pulling mine as well.
oh, in the last post, when i said all the lines need to be removed; let me specify the AC lines and not the PS lines. if you do decide to remove the PS lines to make it easier, that fluid is a bish and can do some damage to your paint if not cleaned up right away.
Last edited by Davin; 11-10-06 at 12:24 AM.
11-13-06, 05:55 PM
#33
Ok, so I do not have any pics, it is too difficult to try and take pics of the a/c pump but I successfully removed the a/c system yesterday. As posted before it is very simple although a few bolts are difficult to get to. This took me approximately 2 1/2 hours taking my time and being meticulous.
**Prior to beginning this you need to take the car to a shop and properly have the dangerous freon drained from the system. Freon is harmful to both you (can kill you) and the environment. Unless it has been converted the RX7 is still old enough that is uses the older R12 freon.
1) I started by removing the battery, battery tray, SMIC, piping, strut bar, and Greddy elbow.
2) Next remove the ac/power steering belt.
3) Next I removed the foremost a/c hose connecting to the pump.
4) There are four 12mm bolts that hold the a/c pump to the motor. The lower bolt that is closest to the firewall is the most difficult to get to but I used a smaller ratchet and had minimal problems. The lower bolt towards the front bumper I used a 12mm boxend wrench to break it loose and then the small ratchet to finish removing it. You cannot totally remove the bolts b/c there is not enough room so just loosen them as much as possible.
5) the Pump should then drop down and the rear wire may be unclipped as well as the last rear a/c hose removed. The pump should now be totally free.
6) Next I traced the lines to the passenger side firewall. To get enough room to remove these lines I removed the intake tubing, and a few vac lines. I used two medium sized cresent wrenches.
7) The main larger line that runs from the firewall to the a/c pump now is totally free and can be removed. (Be careful when doing this as there are vac lines around this hose.)
8) Next unbolt the smaller a/c tank at the front of the car (I don't remember the name of this at the moment) and now the condensor may be unbolted as well. Now all remaining lines should be free and can be carefully worked out of the car.
9) Now just reinstall all removed vac lines, elbow, ic piping, battery and tray, SMIC, and strut bar and smile at a job well done.
** After I removed the a/c pump (compressor) I used a good bit of degreaser to clean things up. There was quite a bit of build up and lots of room to work.
***Also I properly capped off the a/c tubing connections that are at the firewall with some rubber caps I found at the local hardware store. Later I may try and find some bolts to modify with some rubber inserts to cap off these connections.
**Prior to beginning this you need to take the car to a shop and properly have the dangerous freon drained from the system. Freon is harmful to both you (can kill you) and the environment. Unless it has been converted the RX7 is still old enough that is uses the older R12 freon.
1) I started by removing the battery, battery tray, SMIC, piping, strut bar, and Greddy elbow.
2) Next remove the ac/power steering belt.
3) Next I removed the foremost a/c hose connecting to the pump.
4) There are four 12mm bolts that hold the a/c pump to the motor. The lower bolt that is closest to the firewall is the most difficult to get to but I used a smaller ratchet and had minimal problems. The lower bolt towards the front bumper I used a 12mm boxend wrench to break it loose and then the small ratchet to finish removing it. You cannot totally remove the bolts b/c there is not enough room so just loosen them as much as possible.
5) the Pump should then drop down and the rear wire may be unclipped as well as the last rear a/c hose removed. The pump should now be totally free.
6) Next I traced the lines to the passenger side firewall. To get enough room to remove these lines I removed the intake tubing, and a few vac lines. I used two medium sized cresent wrenches.
7) The main larger line that runs from the firewall to the a/c pump now is totally free and can be removed. (Be careful when doing this as there are vac lines around this hose.)
8) Next unbolt the smaller a/c tank at the front of the car (I don't remember the name of this at the moment) and now the condensor may be unbolted as well. Now all remaining lines should be free and can be carefully worked out of the car.
9) Now just reinstall all removed vac lines, elbow, ic piping, battery and tray, SMIC, and strut bar and smile at a job well done.
** After I removed the a/c pump (compressor) I used a good bit of degreaser to clean things up. There was quite a bit of build up and lots of room to work.
***Also I properly capped off the a/c tubing connections that are at the firewall with some rubber caps I found at the local hardware store. Later I may try and find some bolts to modify with some rubber inserts to cap off these connections.
11-14-06, 09:50 PM
#37
Originally Posted by Hashiriya
I have a question - how much does a shop usually charge to drain all the refrigerant out of your AC system?
I couldn't really tell you with any accuracy. Best thing to do is just start calling local shops that you trust to touch your car. My system had already been drained due to an incident with installing my radiator.
11-15-06, 10:17 AM
#38
BMW Tech
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Auburn, Alabama
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Shouldn't charge very much. All they do is hook it up to the machine and suck it out. If it's an R12 system, call around and make sure they still have a machine that can handle R12 because you can't mix 134 and 12. Also, R12 is so valuable now, they should be paying you for the freon!!! Or do it for free since they are keeping the R12 in their freon tank.