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A/C removal how to??

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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 02:48 AM
  #26  
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LMFAO... nice :]


im so gna get owned for that (******* neighbors -_-)

thankss for the writeup
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 10:24 AM
  #27  
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you should tell your neighbors something interesting, like that you accidentally hit a gas main. at that time, you should run outside, screaming, waving your arms in the air.
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 03:34 PM
  #28  
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Sorry man... I couldnt resist. But I also like Davin's last suggestion. Who knows.... It just might work.....
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 04:11 PM
  #29  
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its not that bad. i broke mine, and it went into my face. its a good hair gel, all sticky and ****. i might do a write up this weekend as im pulling mine out. havnt done it so should be fun.
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 06:02 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by d1rx7
its not that bad. i broke mine, and it went into my face. its a good hair gel, all sticky and ****. i might do a write up this weekend as im pulling mine out. havnt done it so should be fun.
right on, the only trouble is removing the bottom two bolts because the power steering line are obscuring the view. with that being said and after all the lines are removed, you just have to feel for that shizzle and slap a 12mm wrench tow unscrew it. everything else is legos
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Old Nov 9, 2006 | 08:59 PM
  #31  
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"Legos" dude...you friggin crack me up. or maybe b/c it is just the end of another 16hr work day... Anyways, if I get time this weekend I will be pulling mine as well.
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Old Nov 10, 2006 | 12:20 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by oo7arkman
"Legos" dude...you friggin crack me up. or maybe b/c it is just the end of another 16hr work day... Anyways, if I get time this weekend I will be pulling mine as well.
NP brah, it is all good

oh, in the last post, when i said all the lines need to be removed; let me specify the AC lines and not the PS lines. if you do decide to remove the PS lines to make it easier, that fluid is a bish and can do some damage to your paint if not cleaned up right away.

Last edited by Davin; Nov 10, 2006 at 12:24 AM.
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 05:55 PM
  #33  
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Ok, so I do not have any pics, it is too difficult to try and take pics of the a/c pump but I successfully removed the a/c system yesterday. As posted before it is very simple although a few bolts are difficult to get to. This took me approximately 2 1/2 hours taking my time and being meticulous.

**Prior to beginning this you need to take the car to a shop and properly have the dangerous freon drained from the system. Freon is harmful to both you (can kill you) and the environment. Unless it has been converted the RX7 is still old enough that is uses the older R12 freon.

1) I started by removing the battery, battery tray, SMIC, piping, strut bar, and Greddy elbow.

2) Next remove the ac/power steering belt.

3) Next I removed the foremost a/c hose connecting to the pump.

4) There are four 12mm bolts that hold the a/c pump to the motor. The lower bolt that is closest to the firewall is the most difficult to get to but I used a smaller ratchet and had minimal problems. The lower bolt towards the front bumper I used a 12mm boxend wrench to break it loose and then the small ratchet to finish removing it. You cannot totally remove the bolts b/c there is not enough room so just loosen them as much as possible.

5) the Pump should then drop down and the rear wire may be unclipped as well as the last rear a/c hose removed. The pump should now be totally free.

6) Next I traced the lines to the passenger side firewall. To get enough room to remove these lines I removed the intake tubing, and a few vac lines. I used two medium sized cresent wrenches.

7) The main larger line that runs from the firewall to the a/c pump now is totally free and can be removed. (Be careful when doing this as there are vac lines around this hose.)

8) Next unbolt the smaller a/c tank at the front of the car (I don't remember the name of this at the moment) and now the condensor may be unbolted as well. Now all remaining lines should be free and can be carefully worked out of the car.

9) Now just reinstall all removed vac lines, elbow, ic piping, battery and tray, SMIC, and strut bar and smile at a job well done.

** After I removed the a/c pump (compressor) I used a good bit of degreaser to clean things up. There was quite a bit of build up and lots of room to work.

***Also I properly capped off the a/c tubing connections that are at the firewall with some rubber caps I found at the local hardware store. Later I may try and find some bolts to modify with some rubber inserts to cap off these connections.
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 07:31 PM
  #34  
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Good job, and thanks for the write up
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 11:16 PM
  #35  
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Thanks. If anyone has anything to add, suggestions to make something easier, or has seen that I did something incorrectly feel free.
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 01:50 AM
  #36  
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I have a question - how much does a shop usually charge to drain all the refrigerant out of your AC system?
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Old Nov 14, 2006 | 09:50 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Hashiriya
I have a question - how much does a shop usually charge to drain all the refrigerant out of your AC system?

I couldn't really tell you with any accuracy. Best thing to do is just start calling local shops that you trust to touch your car. My system had already been drained due to an incident with installing my radiator.
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Old Nov 15, 2006 | 10:17 AM
  #38  
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Shouldn't charge very much. All they do is hook it up to the machine and suck it out. If it's an R12 system, call around and make sure they still have a machine that can handle R12 because you can't mix 134 and 12. Also, R12 is so valuable now, they should be paying you for the freon!!! Or do it for free since they are keeping the R12 in their freon tank.
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